Can't make a panic stop...

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93greenSHO

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Does anyone know why my brakes don't seem to "bite" like they should on my 97? The pedal feels somewhat spongy and then, when I push the pedal down more, it starts biting. A panic stop from about 30 MPH doesn't even wake up the ABS, even for a second. I have heard many things, but could someone tell me what is wrong and what to do? Is it bad brake fluid? Are the pads of poor quality or even good pads that have become glazed? I'm stumped :confused:. Also, does anyone know the right way to bleed the brakes on a Gen 3?
 

93rev2sev

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What kind of condition are they in? What work have you performed recently?

To properly bleed brakes the conventional way, you need two people. One to work the wrench, one to work the pedal.

If you have replaced the master cylinder recently, you may not have bled it sufficiently. The procedure is just about the same for bleeding brakes in any car.

Start at master cylinder. Then goto rear passenger caliper. Then rear drivers side, then front passenger side, then front drivers side.

1. Get ready to loosen connection.

2. Call to partner to press and hold pedal - tell them to keep pressure on the pedal even if it goes down some.

3. Loosen connection and allow old fluid and air out.

4. Immediately, while the pedal is still held down, tighten connection.

5. Call to partner to let up on pedal.

Repeat from step one a few times. I generally repeat until I have bled at least 3 or 4 ounces from each connection. This also flushes the lines, removing contaminants and moisture from the line.

Refill master cylinder before moving on to the next connection. Just make sure that the connection is tight when the pedal comes up.
 

curterj145xr

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This exact problem ended up costing me a '98 Lincoln Continental. Never did figure out what was wrong because they ended up totaling the car. Ever since then, I do a full-on brake check in all of my vehicles every few months just to be sure that they are doing what they are supposed to.

Sorry, I can't help you with the problem...
 

93greenSHO

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So all I have to do is bleed them in that order and make sure I get 3-4 oz. of fluid out? That sounds easy! Will (mostly) fresh fluid help with the performance of my brakes? If so, that might set me back less than 10 bucks and one Saturday. Can anyone recommend brake fluid? I usually use Prestone DOT 3 synthetic. Thanx!:)
 

Ishodu

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Some pads have better inital grab than others. Some seem to slide along others seem to bite in.
 

93greenSHO

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You may be right. I talked to the guy who sold it to me (he works at Advance Auto Parts) and he says his dad probably used Napa brand pads. They are low dust but I don't know if the tradeoff would be lower performance. I am going to flush the brakes when I get a chance, per the instructions by 93shoblkmtx.
 

NebraskaSHO

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I just finished my entire brake system this weekend. I started last weekend and had to postpon it due to part stores not having the caliper bracket # FN74 in stock.

Anyways, my car bites now, and makes it feel like a sporty car, like it should. I'll have to find out what pads I used, I got them from O'Reilly's.

But I replaced:

Front Caliper brackets: (new Ford)
Front Rotors: Brake Best 81-125532
Front Calipers: Original Equipment Remanufactured brand
Front Pads: Brake Best Select SC601

Rear Caliper brackets (from Dorman)
Rear Rotors: Brake Best ##-######
Rear Calipers: Original Equipment Remanufactured brand
Rear Pads: Brake Best #####

The car used to brake very slowly, and now it stops on a dime, perfectly straight. I'd bleed your brakes first, and make sure all the brake lines are tight on the calipers. You'll need a 10mm and 11mm combination wrench to do it, and another person.

Good luck :thumb:
 
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93greenSHO

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Short of replacing all pads and rotors (that's all I could probably afford when I get paid next :frown: ), flushing my brakes best I can may be my only option for now. Darnit! That money is supposed to go for my supercharger! (Yeah, right!):)
 

NebraskaSHO

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Rotors and pads was $164. In the end I think I spent over 350 for everything. Oh well all is better, and brakes are the most important part of any vehicle. I had three seized caliper brackets :oogle: All original, go figure. Makes what the salesman said when I bought it, "It's got all new brakes" seem like a joke now...

On a side note, I had a leaking rear caliper for a day and the pedal felt very, very mushy. I got back there and tightened that sucker down until it wouldn't turn and now it's sealed.

Also if you get in farther than you wish, make sure you replace the copper washers that go between the brake line and caliper. Could be leaking there too.
 
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NebraskaSHO

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Here's the brake pads and rotors I'm using up front.

Rotor: Brake Best 81-125532
Pads: Brake Best Select SC601

How they hold up we'll see.
 

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