CAN ANYONE TELL ME WHY MY ENGINE LOCKED UP AFTER I SHUT THE CAR OFF...?¿?

[Dirt_Nasty_SHO]

Okay here's my story couple of days ago I drove my car for about 20 minutes and then stopped at a gas station turn off the car and walked inside to buy some beer. 10 minutes later I go to start the car and nothing happens. Later addressed as a starter solenoid that was covered in oil from a old oil leak I fixed. So I put a starter on the car went to turn it over and it maybe turned over very slowly for a half of second if that but then came to a halt and started clicking at the starter solenoid. After a couple quick voltage drop tests I decided that I must have gotten a bad starter out of the box. No biggie it happens and they exchanged my starter with a new one no questions asked. But guess what new starter does the same thing. So to shorten this all up the engine is locked up and I cannot turn it over with a 1/2in breaker bar. I have removed the belt since then thinking maybe the compressor or something locked up but no luck from that after removing the starter again too inspect the flex plate I don't see anything that could be holding on to the engine. So it must be topend related right. So just looking through the oil cap I can see that. A portion of the timing chain seems to be intact and on the guide so I'm thinking maybe a injector stuck open and filled a cylinder with fuel hydrostatically locking the engine. So I removed the front bank spark plugs and they are dry. I also did a fuel pressure leak down test and it is within Ford's specs. So please help me think of something to check or let me know if you have had a similar issue because of right now I see no other choice but to tear the intake off and remove the rear spark plugs. I am completely baffled by this I do not know how I can go to perfectly running to potentially seized by just shutting off the car and having no warning signs. So I can not see how it could be a lower end issue maybe I dropped a valve while it was shut off and I guess there still could be a timing chain issue. But to give some back story on the car it's a 97 with 180k but the car has been pampered I mean it's still on the first transmission for crying out loud, oil is beautifully clean and right on the dot no signs of coolant useage so I doubt it's hydrostatically locked due to coolant. The car has been been well maintained and of course it's welded. So please help because my brain is starting to hurt. Thank you.

 

[rubydist]

well its possible that the cam sprocket decided to slip just as the car was turned off. since its an interference engine, it would not want to turn over if the piston is hitting the valve. so that is a possibility. even though it was welded, it doesn't mean that the weld didn't come loose.

its also possible that a valve dropped, as you mentioned.

its also possible that some other lower end problem with a bearing or rod happened at just that time.

unfortunately, I don't see any way around some significant disassembly to find out exactly what happened.

 

[gamefanatic]

You checked tge front bank, but you will need to check the rear banks too. I'd suggest you get a borescope type camera. I have seen them for rent from Autozone, and less than $30 off amazon for the USB 1080p type that can hook to most phones.

If interference is suspected, the borescope will be you best bet. Though technically speaking tgere shouldn't be any issues with turning the engine counter clock-wise with an interference issue. At least to the next slipped cam valve rotation.

If upper issues with CAMs are suspected, you'd need to take the valve covers off to inspect.

I've never had a bottom end issue. I'd suggest if the top shows no issues, removing the bottom pan and inspecting the rod's and bearings. You should't have to remove the bearings, to see issues that would lock up the crank.

 

[E1]

I've seen the main timing chain have a chain tensioner or chain guide drop its plastic skid plate and have it get wedged in some unfortunate places.

Did you try turning the engine backwards yet with that breaker bar?
If it has something wedged in the timing chain, it will probably go backwards fairly easily once you clear the plastic from whatever sprocket it would be grinding up against.

 

[99sho-time]

you'd smell gas if it were some drastic leakdown. Like E1 said this seems likely to be a timing chain component issue. I spoke to a fellow that had the one timing guide plastic (rear head) fall right into and wedge itself into the chain and the cog for the balancing shaft.

Sorry to hear about your sho goodluck.

 

[Dirt_Nasty_SHO]

I've seen the main timing chain have a chain tensioner or chain guide drop its plastic skid plate and have it get wedged in some unfortunate places.

Did you try turning the engine backwards yet with that breaker bar?
If it has something wedged in the timing chain, it will probably go backwards fairly easily once you clear the plastic from whatever sprocket it would be grinding up against.

Yes the engine is frozen in both directions

 

[E1]

Who welded the engine?

Are you sure the REAR bank was welded?

There were documented cases of unscrupulous characters who only welded the front cams and charged for a full service.

Frozen in both directions sure sounds like a broken valve hammered into the head at TDC = Camfailure.

How far are you from Chicago? I've got a strong running welded engine I might part with to help get you back on the road. I know who welded it, too, and he gave a lifetime warranty I'm told...

 

[sperold]

Undo your accessories belt and try to move the crank with the bar.

 

[stephen newberg]

I agree with Eric, that is now starting to sound like a cam sprocket outcome. But your should look first at the timing chain area, and hope that the problem is there. If it is not, into the heads for a look, I am afraid to say.

pax, smn

 

[98SF19]

Per post #3 above regarding borescope . . . if you go this route, make sure you get one that has a good side-view attachment that doesn't create glare in the lens; makes it damn hard to examine the valves.