I finally came around to doing my cam swap, im at 122kmi, the rear cam is pitted, the other 3 have major tree ringing. So did the swap, aligned the cam gears (dots pointing out) and aligned the timing belt, cleaned and assembled everything with assembly ****, put new shims and gapped to the nominal gap. I get everything back on and start it.... first it dies because I forgot to plug in the idle air motor. I plug it in start it, the engine is shaking violently as if it had a huge vacuum leak or running on two cylinders or actualy its very consistent lopy sound as if it was cammed. So i take it all apart again and I thought that the timing was off because it wasnt aligning with the 0 mark on the lower timing cover. As I was taking it apart and checking everything I realize that I didnt tighten the balence pipe donuts, so i'm thinking crap.....Well I the timing marks were all correct so I get it all back together again with the balence pipe donut secure, start it.....ITS STILL THE SAME, its running poorly. I take the intake off, and start checking the lash, everything is within nominal spec except one intake cam, I throw in my biggest shim which is a 2625 and the gap is still at 0.5mm!!!!. Now I know that having this shim so far out of spec is bad, but I know that that is not what is causing my VERY rough running engine. I am in dire need of help here, and what is causing intake valve to be so far out of spec? I dont think the valve is broken...it has the same tension as the others and it was in spec with my old cam. Any help will be greatly appricated
