CAC draining

[Scott Milligan]

Mine was full of oil from the engine I replaced with blown turbos. I heated the CAC with my IR light, sprayed brake cleaner in the driver side CAC intake and vacuumed out using my brake bleeder with car tilted to passenger side a bit. I bore scoped it before and after. The heated brake cleaner cleaned up things nice. I got about half a cup of nasty oily stuff out.

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[SHOdded]

Quick work of a dirty situation

 

[Sgtmeatsauce1]

whats that red plastic thing with black cap on back of motor? Also what symptoms or codes did you get to know the turbos were blown?

 

[Scott Milligan]

whats that red plastic thing with black cap on back of motor? Also what symptoms or codes did you get to know the turbos were blown?

That's my Milwaukee cordless ratchet. I use that thing a lot. The turbos were dripping a lot of oil externally and also pushing lots of oil into the CAC and intake piping. I am looking into rebuilding them. Since the impellers look good I think I can replace the floating bearing, reseal them and the balance should be good.

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[SHOdded]

Pics or video of your rebuild would be great . Sorely lacking information in this area.

 

[Sgtmeatsauce1]

I have a slight leak, no oil burning or smoke, but does use half a qt to a qt between oil changes 5,000-7,000 miles Magnatec 5w-30 synthetic oil. No Codes etc, I have a oil separator system it catches about .75 of a cup condensation, gas, oil and some nasty substance that just plain stinks. However I do have a weird sound now for the last 10,000 miles. On hard shift 1 to 2 or 2 to 3 I heard a screech that sounds exactly like belt slip. I have just changed the belt and new tensioner (really needed neither )and sound still there so I looking mire at rear turbo-the leaker. The leak is minor drip drip never any drops on ground.

 

[SHOdded]

Try switching to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, or another high quality oil available to you. See if that makes any difference.

 

[Sgtmeatsauce1]

I ran Amsoil then Uktra Platinum ....I went on to the Bobstheoilguy list and they suggested the Magnatec because with turbo their decal molecules stick to metal, great for cold starts, cold climates, extreme heat etc. Best deal too wally world 21.95 5 qt jug. I change every 4000 to 7000 miles depends on color, brown and see through or change it. (MC FL500S filter)

 

[Sgtmeatsauce1]

Btw...is it that much cheaper to rebuild then snag a new one for 450 and throw it on?

 

[Scott Milligan]

Btw...is it that much cheaper to rebuild then snag a new one for 450 and throw it on?

I've seen some rebuild kits for 2 turbos for around 400. So assuming 200 per turbo that's not bad. Theres really not much to these. It's mostly a reseal job and replacing the floating bearing I think. I know everyone is really concerned about balancing due to the 170,000 rpm speed on these but with normal wear they are not at factory spec after 100k miles anyway. I used to rebuild helicopter turbines and this was a similar principle. It would be easier just to buy but this is kind of an hobby for me. I work in an office all week and like to hang out in my garage on weekends. Im going to rebuild 2 EcoBoost engines this winter I have left over from my 2 current project cars.

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[SHOdded]

Sweet! Would definitely like to see build threads on your projects . They could become guideposts for the rest of us!

 

[Shadow351]

Hmm, I was wondering if you could just buy a new cartridges, but a rebuild kit is intriguing. My front turbo is dripping, so I may have to worry about this at some point here.