Broken Timing Belt?

[dpsutphin]

I just had to pull out from a corner fast. Got to 6000 RPM in first gear. Shifted to 2nd and the moment I let out the clutch, the tach went to 0, and the engine quit. The engine was still turning over as I coasted to a stop.

There was a little smoke coming from the area of the water pump. It smelled like burning oil, not anti-freeze. Now the engine will turn over freely, and just make a small popping noise as if it is flooded and trying to start.

Does this sound like a broken timing belt, or something else? If it is the belt, does it tear up anything else on this engine like it does on some Honda engines? It is only about 4500 miles short of time for a 60,000 anyway.

If it isn't the belt, what else could cause this?

Car is 1990 with no modifications except for K&N Filter and Turbo Mufflers.

Thanks for your help and suggestions.

 

[TYSHO]

If it is the belt, does it tear up anything else on this engine like it does on some Honda engines?

Nope!


Edit: You can move your battery out of the way, unbolt the top timing belt cover and get an inspection. I don't recall if I had to remove the accessory belt or not, but I don't think so. It was a quick and easy job just to take a look when I had to.

I have some valve tools and shims if you happen to need any during the upper 60k and I am in South FTW.

 

[Black '93]

Just rwemove the top 3 or 4 bolts of the upper timing belt cover and carefully pry it back to see if the belt is shredded or not. And no your motor will be fine if the timing belt is broke, SHOs are non-interference motors.

 

[dpsutphin]

Thanks

Nope!


Edit: You can move your battery out of the way, unbolt the top timing belt cover and get an inspection. I don't recall if I had to remove the accessory belt or not, but I don't think so. It was a quick and easy job just to take a look when I had to.

I have some valve tools and shims if you happen to need any during the upper 60k and I am in South FTW.

Thanks for the information. I got the car towed to the driveway. Will check it out in the morning. I am in South Fort Worth as well, so I may take you up on the tools if I decide to do it myself.

 

[Ishodu]

Did you get a CE light when this happened?

 

[TYSHO]

Marcel, is that an actual gasket made for the MTX that's in your avatar?

 

[Ishodu]

Marcel, is that an actual gasket made for the MTX that's in your avatar?

Nope thats just anaerobic sealant. You can't use a gasket it would cause clearance in the bearings.

 

[TYSHO]

Nope thats just anaerobic sealant. You can't use a gasket it would cause clearance in the bearings.

Never thought about the clearance issues, I was just thinking it was a very thin layer rubber seal. As you can see, I was looking for an easy way out from spreading that crap on the casings and having it smear on assembly.


Now back to the CE light question!

 

[dpsutphin]

CE Light

Did you get a CE light when this happened?

I don't recall the CE light coming on. It was just like everything electrical just quit all at the same time. Can't hurt to check the codes though, I will do that in the morning as well.

It's still well over 100 out there right now, and the car is in direct sunlight. Even if I could fix it today, it wouldn't do much good if mama had to call 911 to fix me.

Thanks for the info.

 

[Rockledge]

Easier way to check the timing belt: take off off the oil fill cap and look down inside while cranking the engine. If nothing moves, then the belt is broken.

The engine should also crank faster and easier in the event of a broken belt.

 

[dpsutphin]

Ok, the saga continues. Went out this morning to check the timing belt, took the oil cap off, had wife turn the key and bam, the car started right up, everything inside I could see through the oil cap is turning, and the car runs like nothing ever happened.

There is no sign of water leaking around the water pump, or anywhere else. There is a small oil leak somewhere under the car, but nothing I can see on top or in the middle of the engine. It appears to just be leaking from the oil pan plug (I have to tighten it a couple of times between oil changes).

I know the fuel pressure is supposed to remain constant throughout the RPM range, so a clogged or partially clogged fuel filter shoudln't be the problem.

I assume the oil pressure changes though. Is is possible that the oil pressure at high RPMs caused just enough of a leak to drip some oil onto the CPS and cause it to fail, just like the dripping water pump thing? But since oil doesn't evaporate, why would it start working again?

In any event, I guess I should prepare to do the lower 60K soon anyway. If anyone has any idea what might have happened, I welcome any theories or advice.

 

[dpsutphin]

Forgot to add, that there were no codes either.

 

[Black '93]

Thats weird. "It's a ford thing, you wouldn't understand."

 

[dpsutphin]

More strangeness

Started the car and drove it 8 miles to a restaurant. Ran perfectly, even seemed to have a little extra power. Came out, same symptoms. Turns over, won't start, little popping noise a couple of times as if it were flooded.

After the pop, little puff of white smoke from the passenger side front of the engine. Smelled like burning oil. But I use full synthetic oil, which may burn, but is not supposed to smoke, at least that's what I have been told. No coolant loss, No sign of an oil leak anywhere, except as previously mentioned, which could not cause this problem.

I'll let it sit overnight, and hopefully it will get back home, so I can park it and get to work on it.

Is there a seal or gasket anywhere near the CPS that could leak and drip oil on the sensor? Does anyone have any ideas? Or should I just call a priest to do an exorcism?

 

[ycode90]

I'm having the same problem right now [ http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=64361 ] I feel your pain . We need help here guys any would be great!

 

[TYSHO]

Is there a seal or gasket anywhere near the CPS that could leak and drip oil on the sensor? Does anyone have any ideas? Or should I just call a priest to do an exorcism?

There's the water pump and 2 cam seals inside the timing belt covers that could leak on the CPS.

Sorry, I have no ideas and wouldn't want to mislead in any way. So yeah, time to call the priest, and I have a SHO you can take to him also. :wave:

 

[RJ-92]

SHOs are non-interference motors.

Ahhhheemmm. Most

 

[TYSHO]

Ahhhheemmm. Most

So that no one gets confused with your comment, that's all SHO motors unless you have stage 2 cams.

 

[Black '93]

So that no one gets confused with your comment, that's all SHO motors unless you have stage 2 cams.

That's good to know!