broken rear endlink

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zerg1024

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so i was driving home and i turned the corner and then hear a snap. i was like maybe i ran over something. so i go out today and drive around the corner and hear a clunking noise coming from the back of the car. i turn around and pull into the driveway and look under the car and see that one of my endlinks are broken. ok so here is the ques. is it bad to drive like that and does anyone know the length and diameter of the endlink so i can go buy it from my old work and second how hard is it to change. i can get the energy suspension ones from pepboys and i can get them for cheap. i have a 93 mtx if that matters. please anyone help.
 

TankII

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From http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=54321


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Check out a Hellwig kit vs. almost everyone else.

3/8 bolt instead of 5/16th. Larger diameter, FLAT bushings for near zero deflection, and immediate response. About $12.00 for the parts (Call them and ask for the 9.5" Center-to-center kit - it's in parts) and you won't regret it.

BTW, it stiffens the feel of the bar considerably since the bar responds faster, but smooths the ride out for the same reason.

TankII
 

SuperHO

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Bah....no need to do all that. Just go to Advanced Auto and get em...about 1/2" in diameter worth of pretty healthy metal. I put em on, and am DAMN happy wif em.
 

TimboSHO

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Sure you can drive it like that if you don't mind the clunking noises and feeling a little unstable on the highway :)
They're really not that hard to change though, and they're cheap. I can get em for like $2 through work.
 

zerg1024

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must be nice to be able to get them for like 2 bucks wish i had that kinda price. does anyone know if energy suspension makes them long enough or what?
 

TankII

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Energy Suspension may make a kit - I don't know. I do know they sell the bushings, but they are the same shape and size as the Addco ones.

Addco has a kit that is close enough in size and is usually $13.- at AutoZone.

The problem I found with all those bushings is that the rounded edge allowed the end-link to roll a bit, causing clunking noises and reduced the effectiveness of the bar.

If you bushings are still in good shape AND you have the blue ones, they are similar is shape to the Hellwigs. I would reuse these on the Addco hardware.

TankII
 

SuperHO

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That was posted when the forum was on it's way down the toilet. If you look around, there's quite a few of those.
 

rudedog

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OK, I know this is an old post, and obviously I did a little searching or I would not have found it. At any rate I called Hellwig today and asked for the --9.5" center-to-center kit-- and the guy said he didn't know what I was talking about. He asked what I needed and I told him rear endlinks for a Taurus and he said they make nothing for one which I knida figured since they don't list hardly ANY cars in their on-line catalog. He also said they don't carry anything with a 3/8" bolt. So, if it's possible, tankII could you post a part number for the kit you used or a link to the catalog where you found them or something, so I could get a couple sets of these.


TankII From http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=54321
*********
http://photos.yahoo.com/[email protected]
Check out a Hellwig kit vs. almost everyone else.
3/8 bolt instead of 5/16th. Larger diameter, FLAT bushings for near zero deflection, and immediate response. About $12.00 for the parts (Call them and ask for the 9.5" Center-to-center kit - it's in parts) and you won't regret it.

BTW, it stiffens the feel of the bar considerably since the bar responds faster, but smooths the ride out for the same reason.

TankII
 

rudedog

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I've GOT a set of those already, I simply liked the idea of the larger walled sleeve and the larger diameter bolt.
 

DHMag

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or you could go to Ford, spend $20 each on em and they come with TPR bushings. the key to proper install is to tighten them until the bushing just starts to swell.
 

inverse1216

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ive had just about every endlink out there and as far as i am concerned they all suck the rod itself is way to thin and the sleeve is useless thats not where it breaks anyway. if it doesnt snap from rust it snaps at the end where the thread is. thats y i made my own 3/8 thick out of steel rod threaded the ends. it didtn cost me much because i already had the tap and die set it may not weigh out for someone else if you have to buy the tap and die set unless you will get more use out of it. i just got tired of these so called HD endlinks and replacing mine.
 

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