Broken exhaust manifold stud--how to fix?

[SilverSHO]

A while back I was removing my Y-pipe, and somehow forgot to WD-40 one of the nuts on the rear exhaust manifold, and the stud twisted off. How should I go about fixing this--drill out the remaining piece of stud and use a bolt, or drill it out and replace it with another stud? Worst case scenario, I'm thinking, is having to replace the manifold itself, but I'm really not in the mood to do that.

 

[BlackOnBlackATX]

i know some other guys have had the same problem so you might find something in the threads, but i would drill it out and put another stud in there. but if for some reason you just cant then use a bolt. good luck!

 

[twr]

Easiest fix is to take the manifold to and exhaust shop and ask them to remove it for you or if you can weld or know someone that can. Weld a nut to the broken stud. The heat from welding expands the stud and the as it cools it contracts (shrinks) to be smaller then it was before welding and then wrench it out using the welded on nut.

<small>[ April 15, 2003, 11:06 AM: Message edited by: twrsho ]</small>

 

[BlackMagik]

I just had this problem back in January.

At the advice of others here on the bord I used the drilling method because my stud was broken nearly flush with the ****** (eliminating the option to weld a nut on)and I was not willing to take a chance on breaking an EZ-out off in the stud. The way I see it is that by the time you drill a hole adequate for an EZ out in that little stud you are 80% to just drilling the whole thing out and chasing the threads.
If yours is broken off flush and you don't trus an EZ-out this is an option:

What you need:
1. A sharp Center punch
2. A $10 set of drill bits from Walmart
3. A drill bit just big enough to drill out the meat of the stud without cutting the threads (you can determine this by fitting a bit into the nut you removed from the stud)
4. A tap that mathes the threads of the nut/stud (again, take the nut with you to thread the tap in as a test)
5. A jumbo can of WD-40 to keep your bits cool during drilling

How to do it:
1. Center punch the broken stud being careful to get it perfectly centered.
2. Start with the smallest bit and drill a pilot hole about 3/8 inch deep (for a flush break this is about how deep the stud is in the ******). Keep the drill bit as straight as you can.
3. Work your way up one bit at a time until you get to the bit listed in #4 above.
4. Use the tap to chase the threads
5. Install new stud (I tried a bolt but it bottomed out and made ****** leak like crazy).

Hope this helps!

PS: Don't be surprised if your ****** gasket between the flex pipe and Y-pipe leaks even with a new gasket.

 

[twr]

BlackMagik:
I just had this problem back in January.

At the advice of others here on the bord I used the drilling method because my stud was broken nearly flush with the ****** (eliminating the option to weld a nut on)

Actually you can weld it on even if the bolt is flush. Just plug welded a nut that is roughly the same size as the stud through the center of the nut. The cast iron of the manifold doesn't take a weld very well - so there's very little worry of welding the stud, nut and manifold all together.

I would stress that if you can pay someone to fix it - go that route. I've messed up a manifold once and wished I had taken it to a shop. If your budget won't allow that - go the drill and tap method.

 

[qiksho]

I broke one back in December...luckily I had 3/4 -1 inch left hanging out. I put on a huge vice grip and heated the manifold red hot...came out like cake thumb

Mine were rusted really bad...I broke it with a 3/8inch ratchet with very little effort. My little propane torch wasn't enough heat. I had to go borrow a buddies acetelyn torch. cheers

 

[rangerj]

Silver sho,

When you install the new stud use anti-sieze compound and brass nuts and washers. I use enough brass nuts to cover all the exposed threads. The next removal will be a snap, without the "snap" of the stud. rangerj

 

[RStalveyARFF]

I have a snap-on stud extractor, with 10mm collet. You just tighten the collet, and loosen, after heating the manifold up with an acetylene torch.