Brembo Cobra R / Four *** calipers PICS

[black92]

I heard people have trouble getting the brackets. Is this true?

 

[SHO92]

The brackets are only available from PBR, and apparently they've done a little grumbling when people have ordered them seperately, as they tend to only sell them as part of the kit.

 

[DemonNeno]

TCE hats & rotors, C5 (Z06 are a different color) calipers, brackets, braided lines, and 94+ knuckles.

The brackets were about $205 for the pair. Calipers about the same, $230 for brand new OE units. They didn't clear my ADR Comp 7 rims, so I ground them down close to 1/8" in some spots (along the edge of the caliper) but found the Tbird SVT wheels will clear, using clip-on wheel weights. They work great, too! Found out how fast i can wind down from 140 tonight on the highway. My chest still kinda stings... lol

EDIT: You'll also need slides w/ boots (Napa's C5 hardware kit includes these), caliper hardware clips (.. and these), C5 pads, C5 banjo bolts and bracket bolts. You can always toss your wheel on my car to see if your current wheels will clear.

 

[black92]

TCE hats & rotors, C5 (Z06 are a different color) calipers, brackets, braided lines, and 94+ knuckles.

The brackets were about $205 for the pair. Calipers about the same, $230 for brand new OE units. They didn't clear my ADR Comp 7 rims, so I ground them down close to 1/8" in some spots (along the edge of the caliper) but found the Tbird SVT wheels will clear, using clip-on wheel weights. They work great, too! Found out how fast i can wind down from 140 tonight on the highway. My chest still kinda stings... lol

EDIT: You'll also need slides w/ boots (Napa's C5 hardware kit includes these), caliper hardware clips (.. and these), C5 pads, C5 banjo bolts and bracket bolts. You can always toss your wheel on my car to see if your current wheels will clear.

Neno, we shold get together sometime. Im very interested in seeing if my wheel will clear. Thanks for the info.

 

[drivinhard]

Oh, and for what it's worth the late-model Mustang guys I know (I've got one too, but it's still in pieces and has a Griggs four-*** setup on it) generally consider the Baer C5 package at least the equal of the Cobra R-spec 4-*** Brembos in track use, and the C5 setup reputedly gets much better pad life.

I got my first test of the C5 brakes (on the track) this past weekend.

Ran with some Ti pad heat shields (may eventually try the SS pistons) but was pretty impressed with the pedal feel (very solid), torque (Carbotech XP10 pads) and pad wear (they still look almost new). Pedal was just a tick softer at the end of the day, but I run pretty ******* the brakes, and it was nothing to go bananas over.

And I didn't know those PBR calipers are as light as they are...

 

[DemonNeno]

Neno, we shold get together sometime. Im very interested in seeing if my wheel will clear. Thanks for the info.

That would work with me. My schedule will be open again in June. Goin campin in North Carolina for this following week in bear country... YAAY!

Mark, they are ULTRA light for what they are, that's for sure! I haven't tracked my car yet, but did do a 60 to 140 and back down to 60 a few times running a G35 coupe... I was EXTREMELY happy with the braking ability. Taking a G35 was only a bonus!

 

[JustinSane]

Hi guys, i had a question that is a bi product of this sort of topic, i see guys talking about the rotors and calipers but not so much about the master cylinder, my question is how well does the stock master cylinder work with these massive calipers?

 

[JEM]

Hi guys, i had a question that is a bi product of this sort of topic, i see guys talking about the rotors and calipers but not so much about the master cylinder, my question is how well does the stock master cylinder work with these massive calipers?

Just FYI, I don't know the piston diameters on these calipers (I'm sure they're Googlable) but when calculating piston area for hydraulic ratios you calculate only one side of an opposed-piston caliper (or double the calculation for a sliding caliper like a PBR.) So a fixed-mount caliper with four 40mm pistons has the same hydraulic requirements as a sliding caliper with two 40mm pistons.

Basically, the pistons in a fixed-mount caliper are "single-acting", where the pistons in a sliding caliper are "double-acting" - the direct pressure on one side pushes against the pad, while the reaction pulls the caliper body against the pads on the other side so they're functionally two pistons.

 

[JustinSane]

Thanks for the reply.

 

[DemonNeno]

I've always considered converting the SHO to a 2 circuit bias front/rear rather then the 2 circuits our cars now have w/ the LF/RR and LR/RF (did i mix that up?). This would strictly be for the sake of running a single proportioning valve for the rears. It would be a lot of work, though, so i'm holding off on that genius idea.

Here's a question for the brake guru's out there... Would it be a bad idea to junction the rear brake lines at the firewall and split them back off again? The idea seems feasible but would defeat the criss crossed setup that allows having front & rear brakes. As long as that's the only con to this, I'm considering it. Feedback is appreciated.

 

[SHO Dude]

Here's a question for the brake guru's out there... Would it be a bad idea to junction the rear brake lines at the firewall and split them back off again? The idea seems feasible but would defeat the criss crossed setup that allows having front & rear brakes. As long as that's the only con to this, I'm considering it. Feedback is appreciated.

It would be a lot easier to swap the lines at the ABS HCU.

Swap the RR to the RF and vise-versa as they come out of the HCU. Then you can put the proportioning valve in the MC line that leads to the rear brakes and proportion both rear brakes with one valve.

 

[DemonNeno]

It would be a lot easier to swap the lines at the ABS HCU.

Swap the RR to the RF and vise-versa as they come out of the HCU. Then you can put the proportioning valve in the MC line that leads to the rear brakes and proportion both rear brakes with one valve.

Mine is an '89, which is why i'm going down the path i speak of. If i could just plug up the bias valve and call it a day, i probably... wouldn't! hehe.. Would you happen to have any feedback in regards to the non-abs'd setup? My confusion begins w/ the 4 outlets at the master. I'm use to the good ole 2 outlet masters w/ a single valve. I couldn't imagine dual proportioning valves producing identical pressure, which is where my mess begins.

 

[gmorrell]

I've always considered converting the SHO to a 2 circuit bias front/rear rather then the 2 circuits our cars now have w/ the LF/RR and LR/RF (did i mix that up?). This would strictly be for the sake of running a single proportioning valve for the rears. It would be a lot of work, though, so i'm holding off on that genius idea.

Here's a question for the brake guru's out there... Would it be a bad idea to junction the rear brake lines at the firewall and split them back off again? The idea seems feasible but would defeat the criss crossed setup that allows having front & rear brakes. As long as that's the only con to this, I'm considering it. Feedback is appreciated.

I did what you're suggesting to my '89 many years ago - Re-plumbed the master cylinder to split the brakes front/rear, then tee-d the rear lines together, ran a single line to an adjustable proportioning valve mounted on the center console, then tee-d the prop valve output line back into the lines to the rear calipers. I also defeated the rear suspension prop valve with bias plugs. It was A LOT of work.

FWIW, my SHO has Baer/PBR 12.5" up front, stock rear brakes, and Porterfield R4 pads front and rear.

It works very nicely, and on the track, I even learned to re-balance the brakes as the fuel load changed. I also learned that it's very easy to dial-in too much rear bias, and have the car swap ends in less time then it takes to say "Oh shi..."

Gary M.

 

[DemonNeno]

Well I don't know about fine tuning it to a full tank! heheh! So you're saying you replumbed the front brakes seperately from the rears on the stock master? Or am I coming up with way more ideas then i should?! Would you happen to have any pictures? Sounds like a great setup!

I'm slightly worried about running the valve at first for fine tuning reasons, but i'm sure i'll be much less of a braveheart and begin with the bias favoring more fronts! At like... 4 in the morning.

 

[NJSHO]

I just found this on another forum about using the cobra r calipers with stock rotors:
http://www.stangsunleashed.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=618

 

[blue2ndgen]

I found these searching for cobra calipers if any one is still interested in doing this.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Must...temQQhashZitem230230911614QQitemZ230230911614

 

[92sho16]

I just searched for this thread as i recently was looking at my fathers mustang, he has the brembo kit on his 95 and measure the distance from the face of the rotor to the end of the caliper and did the same on my sho and i think with team dynamics pr1.2s its possible to fit these calipers without spacers.

 

[black92]

Yes they do fit. I am currently running Team Dynamics on my car and they do clear. THe cheapest I found the calipers was $900.