brakes suck?

[quagmires_sho]

last owner put dot4 in the reservoir, should i bleed and refill w dot3? ik its SUPPOSED to be dot3 j it was low when i bought it so i just filled the difference with with dot 3 n now it brakes really bad when the car is cold but when its up to operating temperature it brakes better? could this be because dot4 is more viscous or heat resistant? it doesnt brake great either way. do these cars just have shit brakes from the factory?

 

[luigisho]

Factory- the brakes are ok. Not great but fine. Outside the fluid issue, the biggest difference in stopping is the pads (and tires with hard braking). DOT 3 and 4 are chemically compatible. I never had this issue so I can't say what if any performance issues there might be. Is the res low due to pad wear or a leak? I would inspect all brakes for pad issue and bleed the brakes if possible. Could be a caliper issue. I mean at this age anything can be suspect. Rubber lines from caliper to hardlines are also known to have issues over time.

 

[quagmires_sho]

Factory- the brakes are ok. Not great but fine. Outside the fluid issue, the biggest difference in stopping is the pads (and tires with hard braking). DOT 3 and 4 are chemically compatible. I never had this issue so I can't say what if any performance issues there might be. Is the res low due to pad wear or a leak? I would inspect all brakes for pad issue and bleed the brakes if possible. Could be a caliper issue. I mean at this age anything can be suspect. Rubber lines from caliper to hardlines are also known to have issues over time.

i see i see, i reckon the previous owner tried to do something with the brakes but quit halfway thru, theres a set of new pads and rotors in the back so who knows, he seemed like the type to put the anti seize on the front of the pads

 

[luigisho]

That's funny.
CHeck the pads and see if they are good enough to use. Since you have them and rotors already a replacement job would give you the opportunity to eyeball everything and see if there are any other observable issues. Again anything can be a problem if it is old. Good luck

 

[FastCAD]

anti seize on the front of the pads? this would ruin those pads.
the anti-squeal goes on the back metal plate. better yet wagner thermal quiet pads for the sho require no anti squeal.
even better; you have a '94? then you already have the correct front hubs to convert to the '96 upgrade. you just need front '96 'sho' calipers and the 11-3/4" drilled and slotted rotors. a direct fit and the difference is noticeable and effective. just check your hub seals and your all set. you may or may not want to add ss brake hoses.
best to ya.
p.s. you can also opt for the cobra 12" rotor options but you will require at least 17" tire rims to clear the calipers.

 

[luigisho]

you just need front '96 'sho' calipers and the 11-3/4" drilled and slotted rotors. a direct fit and the difference is noticeable and effective.

To be fair, you can use cheaper rotors that are non-slotted/drilled to convert

 

[FastCAD]

To be fair, you can use cheaper rotors that are non-slotted/drilled to convert

$140.00 partsgeek.
if you shop around you can find d&s rotors a little cheaper and these are 'sho" specific.
luigi! when are you going to plunge into your next sho? you should hurry the 1&2 gen's are going fast. lol

 

[luigisho]

I have a '93 that I have been ignoring for a few years. Went back to school and job hunting now. Airbag module beeping and have to find the short in the system. Hasn't been inspected since '19 so I don't get to drive it much (only when people ain't looking).

 

[FastCAD]

I have a '93 that I have been ignoring for a few years. Went back to school and job hunting now. Airbag module beeping and have to find the short in the system. Hasn't been inspected since '19 so I don't get to drive it much (only when people ain't looking).

Great!!!
dis-connect that air bag.
remove the single sending wire (behind knee pad lower right side) dis-connect both cables from 'blue' beeper box (behind glove box at top left) that's it.
air bag is disabled and will not annoy or harm anybody. lol
I'm hoping your classes will pay off.
May I ask what type of career you are looking for.
[email protected]

 

[luigisho]

Went back and got my RN last few years. Passed licensing and travelled most of the summer cathing up with family post virus shut down.

Will disconnecting the wires keep the air bag dash light on? That is what my issue is as far as passing inspection. The light blinks-- then sometimes defaults to the module beeping and back to dash flashes and sometime nothing showing (replaced a/bag module -no change-so that was operating correctly). There is a bad ground or something in one of the sensors or ignition maybe. Very strange.
I really think it might be related to the ignition shorting. When I bought it, you could tell someone tried or succeeded in stealing it. The ignition cylinder won't lock and is loose and floppy all over the place. I tried a replacement briefly (short time) and I could not make it fit as a replacement. I think the hole on the column where it goes might have gotten deformed by excessive force.

 

[FastCAD]

congrats on your license!!
now I know when the sho owners get sick of working on their sho's u are always there to make us feel better. lol
the weather in sofla is real nice now for the next 6 months and the governor just passed out raises for the medical staff. just saying??
Oh; and we don't have dmv inspections either. go figure.

yes, the air bag light and the entire system is de-activated and on my sho there have been zero problems for the past year and no difference other than no lights, warnings, codes, chirps or beeps.
I would suggest that u (dis-connect as described) and see what you think and u can always re-attach if u have any mis-givings or u just might miss the constant light or the incessant beeping. lol
I tried everything, including new parts and $$ and a professional mechanic to find out just "dis-conect" the faulty system and the instructions on how to do it and that wasn't free either. lol

 

[luigisho]

This seems to be a reasonable solution. So long as there are no dash lights to instfail inspection, the car is good to go. Thanks! If i run into finding the right wires I'll hit you up. I have it parked 25 miles away so impulse tinkering doesn't really happen these days.