Bore Scoped my 87,000mi engine-picture heavy

[6500rpm]

So today I replaced my sparkplugs with a range colder to go with the tune and decided to grab some pictures with the bore scope of what are typically problem spots with really happy results. Just by chance, I hit 87,000mi today. I've owned the car for the last 50k miles and change my oil at 5k mile intervals with Royal Purple and try to Run 93 Mobil gasoline or Shell V Power 93 when available, I've had a McNally catch can sitting on the work bench for over a year, so this is just the factory seperator controlling blow by.

First is the valves in Cyl 5 through the 3 bar opening, both valves and cyl 2 look the same. Very little on the valves, port walls look wetish and more pronounced but it might be the casting.



The next are the pistons, cyl 3 and 4 if I remember correctly as they were down far enough to get a good view. Any carbon seems to be around the outer circumference and across the dome opposite the valve reliefs. Damn near spotless.



The last few show show the numbers on the pistons. One seems to show DA5E-6K101-AA with a smaller 1003/121301852 the other DA5E-6K100-AA with a smaller 1003/121171515 if anyone has any insight to the numbering. It was posted in a thread that the 2013 PP had better pistons if this can shed any light on the validity.

All in all, pretty damn happy today, I expected much worse. Good oil and good fuel are the only precautionary things I do. It doesn't get beat on like the cars running for time, but it gets drove the way it was designed to be driven every day of the week. Fwiw, the bore scope is just a HF Centech brand and the picture quality is much better than my Snap On which cost several time more and is only a few years older. It's a great tool to have for a lot of different uses.

 

[Ecoboost_xsport]

So today I replaced my sparkplugs with a range colder to go with the tune and decided to grab some pictures with the bore scope of what are typically problem spots with really happy results. Just by chance, I hit 87,000mi today. I've owned the car for the last 50k miles and change my oil at 5k mile intervals with Royal Purple and try to Run 93 Mobil gasoline or Shell V Power 93 when available, I've had a McNally catch can sitting on the work bench for over a year, so this is just the factory seperator controlling blow by.

First is the valves in Cyl 5 through the 3 bar opening, both valves and cyl 2 look the same. Very little on the valves, port walls look wetish and more pronounced but it might be the casting.



The next are the pistons, cyl 3 and 4 if I remember correctly as they were down far enough to get a good view. Any carbon seems to be around the outer circumference and across the dome opposite the valve reliefs. Damn near spotless.



The last few show show the numbers on the pistons. One seems to show DA5E-6K101-AA with a smaller 1003/121301852 the other DA5E-6K100-AA with a smaller 1003/121171515 if anyone has any insight to the numbering. It was posted in a thread that the 2013 PP had better pistons if this can shed any light on the validity.

All in all, pretty damn happy today, I expected much worse. Good oil and good fuel are the only precautionary things I do. It doesn't get beat on like the cars running for time, but it gets drove the way it was designed to be driven every day of the week. Fwiw, the bore scope is just a HF Centech brand and the picture quality is much better than my Snap On which cost several time more and is only a few years older. It's a great tool to have for a lot of different uses.

Nice...I like how the QR code on top of the piston is still practically clear as it was new (I'm assuming that's what it is). You could probably get a good scan on it with a QR app still, lol

 

[yaycandy]

Run a can or 2 of crc turbo and intake valve cleaner through it and look again. It cleaned up my old engine internals good without running it

 

[6500rpm]

yaycandy, in hind sight I should have scoped it first. Top engine cleaners tend to chase crap to the plugs and oil so at this point I'd have to throw the old plugs in, clean things, and put the new set back in. But you're right, the spark plugs only take a bit more than 30 min without all the extra looking, and now that I see how little carbon I'm dealing with I wouldn't think twice about using a cleaner. Maybe before the next oil change. I picked up a walnut blaster adapter tool expecting the worse, a good top engine cleaner may work just as well with a lot less work.

 

[yaycandy]

I use it at every oil change on my new engine. No more catchcan installed either. Car runs better without it somehow, not sure why. I bore scoped my old engine at 40k and it was pretty oil caked. Tore the engine apart at 72k when it blew and it was alot worse. Ill check this motor at 40k to compare.

 

[Zpak]

Much worse pics but you look like you’re in far better shape than me. I’m at 80K. This is one and four. The worst of the bunch.

 

[6500rpm]

Much worse pics but you look like you’re in far better shape than me. I’m at 80K. This is one and four. The worst of the bunch.
View attachment 15611View attachment 15612

But still not horrible for 80k miles, especially on the valve tops. A while back I was doing service tsb injector repairs on 2019 DI Yucon and Tahoe, at 20k miles they were absolutely caked. I consider ours a win in comparison.

 

[yaycandy]

How the intake valves on cylinder 2 looked when it lost compression on the stock engine (dont run a full tank of e85 and drive hard while on lms tune). And after I cleaned them with the crc. Both with intake manifold off.

 

[rubydist]

yaycandy, did you have to change plugs after you used the crc cleaner in the pics above? or did all the crap just end up out the exhaust?

 

[yaycandy]

yaycandy, did you have to change plugs after you used the crc cleaner in the pics above? or did all the crap just end up out the exhaust?

I didnt change plugs but I removed the plug, vacuumed out the cylinder and looked down it with a bore scope and got pretty much all of it. That's also when I realized the cylinder was destroyed after looking at it on my camera. Took it to my shop to get a better look at it with their better camera. But I cleaned out the cylinder with a little vacuum, some duck tape and small hose.

 

[Jeff2017]

That kind of proves what I have heard before. The valve coking indicates an issue that a CC might hide but if the engine is running as designed there should not be significant carbon buildup on the intake valves.

 

[luigisho]

That's also when I realized the cylinder was destroyed after looking at it on my camera.

Redo the original or replace?

 

[yaycandy]

Redo the original or replace?

Payed over 10k for ford racing engine and install. My performance shop has ford racing rep in there a few times a month and I was able to order one through them in person. No clue on engine differences. Does feel alot more powerful then my 13 sho I had and my 15 sho original engine. Maybe one day I'll dyno it and see if there really is a difference.

 

[FiveLeeter918]

Payed over 10k for ford racing engine and install. My performance shop has ford racing rep in there a few times a month and I was able to order one through them in person. No clue on engine differences. Does feel alot more powerful then my 13 sho I had and my 15 sho original engine. Maybe one day I'll dyno it and see if there really is a difference.

Wasn't aware of a Ford Racing variant of the transverse engine... hmm...

 

[yaycandy]

Wasn't aware of a Ford Racing variant of the transverse engine... hmm...

Their part number i posted back on my thread when I had my engine installed.
I was unable to use their valve covers because their were too many ports in it for my 15'. I made a block off plate for the one. Need to do the other one, then I can install the chrome valve covers.

Edit: M6007-35T. Available in rwd and fwd orientation. Was almost 10k. Im sure Jasper has a normal engine for a couple thousand.

 

[Jordan_R]

That's weird. In building my motor I've done a ton of research about any sort of upgraded components and I've never came across anything from Ford racing. Sure it's not just a complete long block ford racing is selling for engine swap cars and having complimentary options (stand alone or like ability for manual trans) and not an actual upgrade?

 

[yaycandy]

That's weird. In building my motor I've done a ton of research about any sort of upgraded components and I've never came across anything from Ford racing. Sure it's not just a complete long block ford racing is selling for engine swap cars and having complimentary options (stand alone or like ability for manual trans) and not an actual upgrade?

Not a clue. All I wanted was a new engine from ford and a pp or pi engine because of the upgraded pistons rings. Ford sent 2 engines. Both wrong engine codes when I checked with shoblock here. So we contacted livernois and ford racing for an engine. Ford racing said they can get me the pp spec engine I want. Came with that model number on the crate. Livernois wanted their tune and all kinds of hoops to jump through and a long wait time and i think it was more expensive through livernois for their engine.

 

[yaycandy]

There's the info page from their website. Not sure how it compares to stock but its for the transverse mounted version.
It pulls harder than 2 other sho engines ive had even without a tune.

 

[Jordan_R]

There's the info page from their website. Not sure how it compares to stock but its for the transverse mounted version.
It pulls harder than 2 other sho engines ive had even without a tune.

View attachment 15638

All of that matches a completely oem truck motor to a T pretty sure

 

[yaycandy]

All of that matches a completely oem truck motor to a T pretty sure

Only way for me to tell without pulling it apart is to dyno it and find a tuner who isn't worried about liability when I ask to raise the boost to the level I want.