Boost/WM flow gauge install help

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Okay so I will be installing AEM boost and WM flow gauge in the near future. My question is where is the best and easiest to have the gauges dim with oem gauge clusters.

Is it at the dimming switch on the dash or is the fuse in the fuse box or relay?

Thanks for your help I will do a short how to when I get started, thank in advance for any help

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Boosted Sho

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Okay so I will be installing AEM boost and WM flow gauge in the near future. My question is where is the best and easiest to have the gauges dim with oem gauge clusters.

Is it at the dimming switch on the dash or is the fuse in the fuse box or relay?

Thanks for your help I will do a short how to when I get started, thank in advance for any help

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Hmm not sure if there is a ez place. I had mine hooked to a hot key on fuse. No dim but was easy and could move on.


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Johnbigdog

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Not knowing the year of your car makes this a hard question to directly answer because I don't know if the wiring for all years are the same.

Most of the Taurus' dimming is done through a networked message.

Some of it is not but controlled through a F.E.T by the BCM. FETs don't like extra loads and can set dtcs or make thins inoperative.

Until we know your year tortus can't really help you see if you can even get a signal wire.
 
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2011 Ford Taurus SHO w/PP

Update:
So I went ahead and went with the brightest setting which matches pretty well.

The problem now is finding a fuse that is "ON" in the On, Run, and Crank position for the Boost Gauge. The W/M flow gauge is full operational but Boost gauge is not. It powers but does not read boost or vacuum. I tried F46 in the BJB where my methanol kit gets its 12V switched power but that doesn't work for the boost gauge. When the constant 12v power wire (red) and switched 12v power wires (pink) are both hooked directly to battery both gauges work flawlessly so I know this is the problem.

Anybody know of a 12v switched power supply in Battery Junction Box besides or Smart Junction Box that is "ON" in the On, Run, and Crank position?
 

Johnbigdog

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Pin 39 at conector c2280b (vt-gy) is the pin for disabled backlighting. This also goes to the headlight switch.

No garuntee that it won't trip the FET.

As for key on power a test lamp will get you what you need the quickest
 

Boosted Sho

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22fc92895aa357ef1241bf99b1fa45c1 this is key on hot if you haven't figured it out yet. Currently using that for my meth controller


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Update: thanks for all your help. Tested the sensor yesterday and it's out of specs. At least I know I wasn't doing something wrong.

The sensor registered 1.45v under the specified range AEM provided 1.65v - 1.71v. I will be purchasing a new sensor from a third party seller like Amazon or Ebay. AEM will repair or replace the item once I ship it to them and they verify the sensor is broke. Guess I will have an extra if it happens again.

I will follow up once the sensor arrives and everything is functioning as intended.

One thing I did verify is I need to turn my Meth pump up to 250 psi to get closer to the full 640cc flow of the nozzle. Thanks again for all the help members provided.

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