Battery ground bolt issue

[ShatteredMJ]

I was doing my big 3 wiring upgrade earlier today (finally) and I noticed the battery negative to chassis ground cable was kind of not in place. I tried to loosen the nut but it keeps turning with the lug terminal itself. The small tab that's supposed to hold the fixture in place for fastening is either broken or fiddled with. I just want to remove the cable and clean the area beneath it and reattach it. Looks like a solid spot for other grounds as well.

Does your battery ground to chassis look like this? Any idea how I can get it loose without damaging the lug terminal or cable? There is no way I can access the other side of this sheet metal.

 

[Ta2dResqr]

Are you routing your big 3 through the BMS sensors? If not, you may want to consider turning it off with ForScan. I was looking at a big 3 upgrade recently but, I don't think the cable I have will fit in the sensors. I may need to get some smaller wire.

 

[ShatteredMJ]

Are you routing your big 3 through the BMS sensors? If not, you may want to consider turning it off with ForScan. I was looking at a big 3 upgrade recently but, I don't think the cable I have will fit in the sensors. I may need to get some smaller wire.

What BMS? That guy keeps leaving every time I own a Ford vehicle. You can fit two 4/0 cables through the hall sensor if you want but I don’t see the ultimate point of the whole BMS.

I have my lithium jump starter packed with the safety kit in the trunk along with a handheld tire inflator and never was I left stranded anywhere.

 

[Ta2dResqr]

What BMS? That guy keeps leaving every time I own a Ford vehicle. You can fit two 4/0 cables through the hall sensor if you want but I don’t see the ultimate point of the whole BMS.

I have my lithium jump starter packed with the safety kit in the trunk along with a handheld tire inflator and never was I left stranded anywhere.

At the battery yes, the alternator is where it was tight.

 

[ShatteredMJ]

At the battery yes, the alternator is where it was tight.

Honestly if you’re doing the big 3 then that means you’re seeking the highest amperage and voltage possible. Probably for an audio upgrade, which defeats the purpose of BMS.

 

[Ta2dResqr]

Honestly if you’re doing the big 3 then that means you’re seeking the highest amperage and voltage possible. Probably for an audio upgrade, which defeats the purpose of BMS.

Nope, just looking for the cleanest electrical I can easily achieve. I run the car as an emergency vehicle and have a lot of added accessories. Things like when I open my trunk, there are 2 flashing lights under the trunk lid that face back since the rear window light is covered. I added a ground cable from the trunk lid to the body and that helped with some issues I was having there. I also added one from the hood to the body. Both of those are found on the FPIS. I also have a large power and ground cable that go to the trunk to power an auxiliary fuse box to power all my accessories.

 

[ShatteredMJ]

Nope, just looking for the cleanest electrical I can easily achieve. I run the car as an emergency vehicle and have a lot of added accessories. Things like when I open my trunk, there are 2 flashing lights under the trunk lid that face back since the rear window light is covered. I added a ground cable from the trunk lid to the body and that helped with some issues I was having there. I also added one from the hood to the body. Both of those are found on the FPIS. I also have a large power and ground cable that go to the trunk to power an auxiliary fuse box to power all my accessories.

Valid point. If you’re not pushing crazy amps or straining your alternator, then two oversized 4 AWG cables can easily fit through both positive and negative hall sensors. Grounding the alternator to chassis directly makes a huge difference as well.