I just fixed the neighbor's old Cavalier yesterday that was doing the same thing.
I made sure that all visible couresty lights were off, cheated the door switch so I could keep the door open with no lights, unplugged the negative cable from the battery, and inserted my handy Radio Shack Autoranging meter, set to the 10A current scale.
His car was measuring about 250 mA with nothing on, it should have been 1/10th that. Started pulling fuses until the current dropped to near the expected value. That isolated the circuit, his happened to be the courtesy lights fuse. Opened trunk, no light. Opened glovebox, light was on, current through the meter didn't change (it should have gone up by the amount drawn by the bulb). Pulled the bulb, current dropped to expected. Closed glovebox, current stayed. Put bulb in bottom of glovebox , told him he needed a new switch. He said he didn't need a glovebox light. Reconnected battery, charged overnight, job done.
I worked on an 85 LTD last month with the same problem. Did almost the same procedure to try to find his problem. Pulled every fuse, no luck...constant 2.5 Amp draw. Finally had to cut wires to isolate to the individual circuit. His happeend to be a shorted EEC power relay. 3 bucks at the junkyard, put a couple splices in, and reconnected everything. Charged up the battery and closed the job.
Moral of the story... measure the current being drawn from the battery. Remove loads until the draw is normal to isolate the circuit. Just remember that there are several loads that always draw current. These include the radio memory, the clock, and the EEC KAM (keep Alive memory). These should total less than 25 mA.
Good luck.
Steve