rangerj, hope you dont mind me posting your great advice on this topic that you sent to me. See, I give credit where credit is due.
Sho_u, this is for the mtx, but the directions should still be the same.
Loosen the axel nuts with the wheels on the ground. (32mm socket if I remember right) (edit by RAPTOR: I went to sears yesterday 4-12-04 with the new lock nuts in hand...for some reason one side was 29 mm deep socket and the other was 1 3/16). Believe it or not sears only had the stumpy sockets and not the deep sockets I needed. As a result, i went to the autoparts store and they wanted 29 bucks for an axle socket. I am going to borrow the needed socket from a buddy instead.
They are torqued at approximately 200 foot pounds (180 -210 I think) so it is easier with the wheels on the ground. The axel nuts are "lock" type nuts and should be replaced.
Tap on the axel, with the old nut out at the end, to loosen the axel in the hub. Sometimes you have to hit it pretty good. Keep in mind it was drawn in at 200 ft lbs. and corrosion is sometimes a factor. I have had to hit them with a 2lb sledge on occasion.
The ball joint pinch bolt also has a "lock" type nut on it. Both the nut and bolt should be replaced with an equal quality bolt for proper strength. I get them at a dealer, or a brand name parts store (NAPA), to be sure of the quality. Whether you remove the tie-rod end, or not, replace the cotter key if it has rusted.
I find it easier to use a small bottle jack to push down on the lower control arm to get the ball joint stud out of the steering knuckle. Place the jack on the lower control arm where it meets the stabilizer strut.
Place the top end of the jack against the inner fender lip. I use small pieces of wood to protect the control arm and the edge of the inner fender. The alternative is to pry down on the control arm with a pry bar (what a bear).
Once the strut is free of the ball joint, and the axel is loose in the hub, you can push in on the axel and pull out on the strut to clear the end of the axel. The axel moves several inches in the inner C/V joint, and is spring loaded. The outer joint is very flexible and can be cocked at an angle to get it out.
It realy helps to have an assistant, but it can be done by one person.
NOTE: Do one side at a time. DO NOT PULL BOTH AXELS at the same time. Pull and replace one at a time.
Once the axel is out of the hub the inner end can be popped out of the trans with a large screwdriver or a flat prybar placed between the trans case and the axel. Be careful and keep in mind that the trans case is aluminum.
Put a pan under the trans to catch the fluid. The DRIVER's side has a circlip on the end that goes into the trans. It fits in a groove. DO NOT BEND OR DISTORT THE CIRCLIP if it is left for you to apply. (It may already be on the axel)
Look at the old axel so you can see where it (circlip) goes. It provides resistance to being removed. Push the axel in and then ease it outward until you feel the circlip stop the axel. Insert the prybar and pop the axel out. The circlip will compress and allow the axel to slide out of the trans. (This is one of those things you have to FEEL for yourself to understand)
Gently slide it onto the end of the axel up to its groove. It will expand to fit, but do not try to do it with tools and get it out of shape.
The new axel can then be popped into the trans and slipped into the hub.
Reassemble the balljoint stud into the steering knuckle and put in a new pinch bolt and nut and torque to specification. If you removed the tie-rod end put it back together with a new cotter key (torque to specification then turn to line up the holes for the cotter key).
Put on the old axel nut and use it to draw the axel splines into the hub. I like to coat the splines with a light coat of grease.
The new axel nut can be put on when the car is on the ground. It is a lock nut and after you start it on the threads by hand it will soon become difficult to turn. I like to start all nuts or bolts by hand to avoid "cross-threading".
A change of axels does NOT require a front end alignment.
As always work safely. Use jack stands. Do not EVER get under a car held up by just a hydrolic jack, not even for a second (period). I have seen them fail, suddenly, more than once. When you have kids you have a responsibility to be more careful and not do stupid stuff. (food for thought)
I am a proponent of replacing the trans axel seals. There is a tool that is nothing but a flat bar with a flat claw at the end. It is about $15 at Sears. Auto Zone may even "rent" them. One end of the claw goes to the inside edge of the seal and the other end sets against the outside edge for leverage. The object is to pry the seal out.
Sounds easy enough. Sometimes they just pop right out, and other time you have to take them out in pieces.
The proper sealant for these seals is "anaerobic" sealer, but RTV is OK if you apply a THIN coating. Take a good look at the new seal and judge by the new one where to place the tool to get the old one out. You do not want to damage the trans case.
The new seal is driven in place by socket the same size as the seal or something flat that will drive it in evenly. I have used a piece of wood laid flat on the seal many times. There are tools for installing seals, but they are not necessary as long as yoou drive it in flat or "square" and not "cocked".
Lastly, you have to be careful not to damage the seal (new or old) when inserting the axel, or taking it out. Check the area of the axel that rides in the seal for any burrs or nicks. Lubricate the area of the axel that will come in contact with the seal. A thin film of grease will do fine.
If the seal is original I would replace it. It's your call!
How is everything else going? Did what I said about the circlip make any sense? That is a tough item to explain.
Jack
circlip is made of "spring" steel, is wire, and is bent into about 90% of a full circle. The groove that it fits in allows it to compress when it goes into, or comes out of, the trans. It provides resistance to removal of the axel. The missing part of the circle allows it to close up so the axel can fit into the trans, or come out of the trans.
IMHO, never reuse a circlip, use a new one. They are usually included with the new or rebuilt axels. If not, get one for the driver side axel. Check your passanger side axel for a circlip. I do not know if all of the model years excluded the passanger side circlip.
You may have to "persuade" the axel to go into the driver side but the circlip does not put up too much resistance unless it is distorted. That is why I allways use a new one. If it is not on the new axel, and you have to install it, be very careful not to distort it, that is bend it out od shape. It is spring steel and will "give" enough to be slid over the axel up to its "groove".
When removeing the old axel I apply prying pressure to the inner joint until I feel the resistance of the circlip. Then I tap the pry bar with the heel of my hand. The idea is to get the circlip to close the gap of the circle and allow the axel to slide out of its hole. The pressure on the rounded edge of the clip closes the gap and the outward pressure pulls the axel and circlip through the hole.
If you get a chance, stop at an auto parts store and get a look at a circlip. Then maybe this will make more sense. As I said, it is one of those thing you have to experience.
This would be an excellent time to change the axel seals on the trans. Check the condition of the ball joints, lower control arm bushings, and the stabilizer bushings.
If you have a service manual take a look at it prior to doing the job. Your local library has service manuals in the referrence section.
If you need more info let me know. It is not a hard job. Jack Joyce aka rangerj
