AutoRacing Youtube SHO Build Thread

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802SHO

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I’ve done the shift kit and have the same issues
I found Sonnax’s part #FD6F50L for a remanufactured solenoid valve body. Looked up a price and I could only choose install tips or an authorized distributor. Whatever It Takes was on the list so I called them. They told me that they didn’t have 1 listed anywhere to buy it. They said all the Sonnax zip kit does is repair faulty valve bodies to get back to like OEM. They said they are replacement parts not upgraded parts. And they also don’t offer replacement for everything worn out in the unit so, you end up replacing the worn parts with new ones, trying to get it to like new again, meanwhile other things are still worn, so not everything is like new. They said depending on how much more it costs, you might want to just get a brand new one, then everything is new not just some of it.

I get what they’re saying but I believe the Sonnax zip kit doesn’t just fix, it also prevents further issues. However it’s my belief that the damage has already occurred, by the time you’re experiencing shifting flare ups, drivability issues, the clutches are already burned a good bit. After this point you throw in a zip kit to remedy it, and maybe that helps at first but it probably just delays it being completely ruined. Meanwhile your experience with Sonnax’s kit doesn’t seem like it helped.

Maybe the Sonnax kit is like preventative maintenance rather than a repair.
Andrew,

Do you know how difficult this job would be for the average SHO owner?

Thanks
Replacing the entire assembly would be relatively easy for everyone. A How To Video could be done.
 

802SHO

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Welp I called Ford and a brand new valve body assembly was $514 or so, including tax. $200 back when you give them the core. Just over $300 total. Looks like I’m going to be swapping out valve bodies
 

yaycandy

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So as I’m looking at it….seems like there’s a lot wrong with our valve body….to the point of like..wouldn’t it be some shit if really all we mostly need to focus on is upgrading it? Just the valve body? We burn up the clutches and think we need better clutches. How many valve body flaws from the factory lead to burnt clutches? Maybe we don’t even know how good our clutches are bc the design flaws of the valve body ruins them. Are we focusing on the wrong thing? Very interesting to see how many areas of concern there are in the above diagram.

Edit: pretend the diagram of the valve body is a school test, all the wrong answers are marked in red. That’s an absolute failure son! Our valve body is 100% the culprit

Ive always been a believer that the valve body causes all the issues in the clutches. Whole way back to the 700r4 and many other transmissions. The valve body is a crucial part to it all but my current thoughts are that fluids need changed really often to keep it clean on the inside. Not sure about the filter yet. I didnt get that far into the workings yet
 

yaycandy

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Welp I called Ford and a brand new valve body assembly was $514 or so, including tax. $200 back when you give them the core. Just over $300 total. Looks like I’m going to be swapping out valve bodies

I found it on tasca through the backdoor. Idk if its much cheaper or not. 424$ or so in my state with tax and core. Idk what shipping is
Drain what you can through the plug. Then remove this with a pan under. A good bit still comes out. Ive done it already on a friends sho

Edit: actually not sure if you need to drain it or not. I always do when im working on it. Just catch what comes out

 
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802SHO

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Ive always been a believer that the valve body causes all the issues in the clutches. Whole way back to the 700r4 and many other transmissions. The valve body is a crucial part to it all but my current thoughts are that fluids need changed really often to keep it clean on the inside. Not sure about the filter yet. I didnt get that far into the workings yet
The valve body filter is easy and dirt cheap from Whatever It Takes Transmissions.
 

SeanDev

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I just gave him the transmission yesterday and he is compiling the parts he thinks will be best and going to throw a little back woods transmission knowledge at it. As for specific parts I don't have a lot of part numbers. Essentially I BELIEVE it's going to be the zip kit (which he said addresses valve body pump problems), OEM equivalent clutches which will be an "improvement" by raybestos (not the upgraded ones we've been waiting for) and he said he's going to address the snap ring failure by trying to find a stiffer ring that fits OEM placement.

They are the Raybestos RCP96-327 which they list as:

Features/Benefits:
Complete unit coverage.
Contains friction components
manufactured with a unique blend of
high energy fibers for smooth
engagements and high temperature
durability.

I figure I'd give you guys a little synopsis as to why I am going ahead on this rebuild NOW instead of waiting on anything else is I found out that the used transmission that I was swapping on a whim has already been tried and tested to it's limit so I basically have a running and driving transmission that slips with 28lbs of boost in fifth or a who knows transmission and I just can't wait on theoretical parts any longer and need something for the car. So basically going to drop a few grand on this rebuild and my buddy who is doing it is going to warranty the work behind it. He said while it's not going to be a tried and true "built" transmission it'll most likely do everything I need. We are going to experiment with some not typical modifications to see if we can improve the transmission. Realistically the idea is slightly better clutches and more fluid pressure will equal more hold and then we are going to send it.
So a trans has been sent on it's way to be built! Now because it won't be a secret of all that is going on because who likes trans build secrets?

It's going to get a shift kit, some "better" than oem clutches, an upgraded valve body that will push some more pressure and a general refresh. Things spiraled pretty quickly on the trans being out.
Off subject but reviewing your post and videos. Did Ryan have car dynoed when it was running a max tune.? Curious to what your SHO had as far as whp and wtq, basically how powerful was the engine output before he detuned it and sold it to you?
 
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Jordan_R

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Off subject but reviewing your post and videos. Did Ryan have have car dynoed when it was running a max tune.? Curious to what your SHO had as far as whp and wtq, basically how powerful was the engine output before he detuned it and sold it to you?
The highest dyno numbers he had was 550/625.

When I dyno'd the car and it made 506awhp at 42% wgdc. More boost to be had just didn't run it. Now I will say a fbo e85 2010 gtr made 505awhp... just goes to sho how stingy this dyno is if you Google what the average gtr makes at the wheels with those mods.
 

Jordan_R

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Well got the trans "built!"

By built I mean using the upgrades that we have available currently. I still have another trans that needs rebuilt that I can upgrade if things ever happen. I will post some pictures later but I have a trans with raybestos clutches which are just an oem equivalent. Now the difference for me is that in my field I have a ton of products that are OEM equivalent that are way far beyond the OEM products. Just that they are usable in place of oem stuff. That being said my trans builder said that these should be a good little bit better than the oem stuff.

All that being said a refresh in general will be really nice. The trans also got a trans go shift kit put in it which should help maintain pressure / slightly increase it. On top of that we have a GH torque converter going in the car with all of this. Should have it back together probably in the coming weeks.

I have some crazy pictures of the shape the trans was in as it came out of the car. Essentially it was ready to blow up at any given moment. So stay tuned!
 

BweegN

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MAJOR excited to hear about this one. I'm FINALLY about to dig into my trans which is the last stock piece of the puzzle for my build.
I'll definitely be riding your coat tails for this one!
 

Jordan_R

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Been a minute! Car runs and drives again. Had a hick up that resulted in me needing to take the engine back out. Replaced the torque converter bushing but didn't sink it into the snout enough. Well first drive the transmission was overheating. Long story boring figured it out.

Resized 20230428 202549

Resized 20230428 202440

No abnormal noise was present that I could hear but got it swapped. Checked fluid and honestly was surprised to see barely any metal fragments. The bushing got more squished than anything else. Now onto xdi60 and xdi+50 injectors swap and retuned!
20230413 084028
 

Jordan_R

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So car has had the engine out like 4 times. Ended up finding out the gh torque converter was damaged at some point so got a brand new oem swapped in and car happier than ever! Adding a tiny bit of boost in now that fuel has been dialed! Brad killing it
20230523 074532
 

kryptto

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Congrats @Jordan_R I have seen pictures and video of that car all OVER the SHO forums. What a sweet grab - even better - going to someone who is capable and loves the platform. Congrats again, PS I want those rims.

And secondly - I want that center speaker gauge setup... :(
 

kryptto

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Congrats @Jordan_R I have seen pictures and video of that car all OVER the SHO forums. What a sweet grab - even better - going to someone who is capable and loves the platform. Congrats again, PS I want those rims.

And secondly - I want that center speaker gauge setup... :(
No seriously - I want those rims... :(
 

SHOthyme

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But, wen 10's?

I'm living vicariously through this build and I'm getting a little impatient here!
 

kryptto

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Yes same with myself

2014 Ford Taurus SHO PP - Catless Downpipes - 3BAR MAP - Ford Performance Spark Plugs Colder Range - K&N CAD, Reisch 170, HP Tuned, Accel Coil Pack, Chrome Delete - Android Auto Nav System
 
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