ATX Dying at driving speeds

[Pekin21]

This weekend I was driving on a side street at about 30 and suddendly my car died/cutout and the check engine light flickered but then came back without having to restart or lose too much speed (it only lasted about 1-3sec.). Yesterday I was at a stoplight and gave it gas to take off and the same thing happened. Finally about a half-hour later while I was speeding onto an entrance ramp it happened again. I didn't notice if the check engine light flickered this time, too busy looking at traffic to merge into. It was fine this morning on my way to work.

Anyone ever have this happen before? Any ideas where to start? THANKS!!!

 

[Mr Anonymous]

Start with reading the codes. Here's a good site: http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html

Sounds like it could be a CPS problem, but the codes are the best place to start rather than guessing.

 

[BlackOnBlackATX]

yes, definately check your codes, but also check your IAB valve because if your engine is sputtering out like that it might be as simple as buying some carb cleaner and spraying all the junk out of it. although in all truthfullness i cant really say that it sounds like thats the problem. let us know what happens. the instructions on how to check the codes are in my signature at the bottom if you dont know how.

 

[sdpatt]

Yes, it does sounds like a crankshaft position sensor on its way out. Confirm it with the codes that were set when the light flickered. Are you due for a front end 60K? Search on "60K replacement parts."

 

[governor]

This really sounds like a problem we had with an old 1984 Eagle (made by AMC) many years ago! We had the carburetor worked on 3 times, and it kept doing it. Cost us a bunch of money, cause the carburetor isn't covered by warranty. Finally figured out it was an intermittent electric fuel pump failure. "Intermittent" = doesn't happen all the time, just occasionally. It cost only about $50.00 to replace that fuel pump, after all that expensive work that didn't fix the problem.
So you might try that!

~Gerry

 

[sdpatt]

The correlations between a carbureted 1984 AMC product and the SHO engine and control system are very limited at best. You could be right, but you could also learn a great deal from searching the past topics in the Forum for many answers to repeated questions.

Rather than throwing money at a possible problem (like working on a carburetor three times), the biggest challenge to fixing any problem is to find out what the problem really is. If the CHECK ENGINE light illuminated, even for a split second, there was at least one code stored in the EEC. It wants to tell you. All you have to do is ask it what the fault was by running the KOEO test. An old saying goes, "85% of fixing a problem is finding out what is wrong."

 

[Pekin21]

sdpatt,

You seem like you're THE man on this website, I've seen you help out alot of people.

Are the connectors for checking the codes at the top of the firewall on the passenger side? (I'm at work right now). In response to your question about the 60k, I replaced the crankshaft sensor this summer along with the water pump and timing belt. As I noticed on one of your earlier posts, from doing a search, you said those rarely go bad? I'll run the codes and see what I get. Also, I didn't notice a code on the list for a bad crank sensor on Mickey's list. Do you know what it is?

Thanks!!!

sdpatt:
Yes, it does sounds like a crankshaft position sensor on its way out. Confirm it with the codes that were set when the light flickered. Are you due for a front end 60K? Search on "60K replacement parts."

 

[sdpatt]

The CPS failure code will show up for your 1993 in the memory section (after the separator pulse) as: 211 Ignition PIP signal was erratic or missing. PIP stands for profile ignition pickup and is synonymous with the CPS in the case of our SHOs. If it was a new sensor, I must ask if you gapped the sensor to the required .03" from all three of the sensor vanes.

The sensor that I mentioned as being rather robust and not prone to failure is the cylinder identification (CID) sensor or camshaft sensor.

 

[pekin212]

I finally had a chance to run the codes and have some questions since this was the first time I've tried doing it myself.

The key on, engine off came up with 111 codes, all ok. When I did the key on, engine running here's what I got.

167 - no change in throttle position during test
521 - wheel not turned or PSP problem (what's PSP?)

While the RPMs were high I first turned the wheel a half turn (put hand at top of wheel and rotated it clockwise until my hand was at the bottom, then rotated it counterclockwise then same way)

After I did the other steps (tap brake pedal and overdrive switch) and it idled down and the check engine light flashed, I tapped the throttle and the RPMs jumped up to about 3K.

I searched and saw other people having the same problems. I ran the test twice and came up with the same results, any ideas?

 

[projectSHO89]

While running the ER (Engine Running) test, you will receive the signal for the "goose test". At this time, mash the throttle to the floor and relase it. At the same time, you also have to cycle the O/D cancel switch (if Auto), hit the brakes, and turn the steering wheel at least half a turn and release it. You only have about 10 seconds to do all this, so it can take some practice.

There is a pressure switch on the power steering rack that monitors the pressure changes in the PS system. My guess is that you didn't hit that short time window with your actions in the "goose test".

In any event, none of those codes indicate the cause of your intermittent stalling (which sounds like either the CPS or CID sensor).

Perhaps you inadvertently reset the memory codes while exploring the process.. shrug

Steve

 

[Pekin21]

How do you reset the codes?

 

[Mr Anonymous]

Pekin21:
How do you reset the codes?

Just remove the jumper while the codes are being output.

 

[Pekin21]

Steve (Projectsho89)

I just want to clarify the process for getting codes with the engine on. The way you describe it, after the car idles down and the check engine light flashes; you it the gas, turn the wheel, hit the brakes and OD switch all at the same time.

On this website, it describes the process different. I'm not arguing, just want to make sure I'm doing it right so I can get my codes. Also, I didn't remove the jumper while running the codes so I don't think I cleared them. One other thing, when I do hit the gas the check engine light flickers dimly (not as bright as normal). Is this suppose to happen?

http://www.midwestsho.com/instructions.html

Thanks!
Chad

 

[MI_SHO]

How do you reset the codes?

It's real simple:

1. Disconnect battery cable
2. Turn [ON] headlamps
3. Wait 10 minutes
4. Turn [OFF] headlamps
5. reconnect battery
6. Turn [OFF] every accessory (climate control, radio, etc...)
7. Start car (do NOT touch gas pedal!)
8. Wait for idle to settle to a consistent rpm (typically takes only a few seconds)
9. immediately turn [ON] every possible accessory that will put a load on the charging system (AC on full blast, headlamps, fog lamps) Also apply brakes and turn steering wheel back and forth a bit.
10. This is the fun part :
Drive car throughout entire performance range...

Done