At a Complete Loss

[gchld25]

I would like to start off by saying this board rocks, I have gotten a lot of valuable information by reading previous post. Now for the Issue...

I replaced my water pum and Thermostat this weekend, after everything was put together the car will not start. The car fired right up and ran before I took it apart to replace the water pump. I know I am getting spark and as far as I know I am getting fuel. Even though I could not get the car started I still ran the self diagnostics and all I got back was a 116 and a 636, those should not keep the car from starting should they? I had the alternator tested and it was fine, I am pretty sure the starter is good, so all I can think is it has to be something electrical. I have retraced my steps three times and can not find where I could have left something unplugged or something. I am not to familar with the electrical works of this car so any information will greatly appreciate it as I do not want to take this car to Ford as everytime I do they try to get me for $1800 or so.

93 ATX

 

[sdpatt]

Having replaced a water pump each of the last two weekends on a SHO, I am probably in a good position to give you information on what could have gone wrong. What I cannot tell from your first post is exactly what is not happening.

If you were testing the starter I have to ask if the engine is even spinning (turning over) when you turn the ignition key? If it is spinning, and it must to actually allow the EEC to generate spark, why are you testing the alternator? Is it turning over by the power of the starter, but not firing (spark plugs igniting air/fuel mixture in the cylinders) and running on its own? How did you test for fuel pressure and spark?

To access the water pump you must remove the battery and disconnect the crankshaft position sensor (CPS or CKP) to remove the center timing belt cover and timing belt. The timing belt should also be removed to protect it from the waterfall of coolant that flows when the pump is removed.

How did you disonnect the CPS? From the connector at the top of the engine or by removing the two Phillips screws that secure the sensor to the engine? The sensor must be gapped 0.03" from the shutter wheel on the crankshaft timing belt pulley. If this was not done, or if the shutter vanes had been damaged or bent, the shutter wheel may have damaged the CPS and no spark will be generated.

If you removed the timing belt, how did you align the crank and camshafts when it was reinstalled? How was the belt tension set?

All of the answers to these questions have been posted in this Forum, many with helpful pictures. Please provide more information so that we can help you get her running again.

 

[gchld25]

The engine is turning over, I had just heard that sometime the starter can have enough power to turn the motor but not enough to actually start it, also I wanted to check the starter because if you move the cable that connect to the solenoid that whole thing moves. I just tested the alternator because, it was jsut something I knew how to test.

I did not test for fuel pressure I just checked to see that it was getting fuel by pressing the ****** on the top of the intake and fuel shot out. I tested spark by using a test light that hooks onto the spark plug on one end and the other end you hook the spark plug wire and I got light.

I did remove the battery but I did not have to disconnect the CPS to get the timing cover off. I did not remove the timing belt at all for the replacement. The only thing I disconnected was the Ignition module that sits on the side of the intake, which I took off to access the timing cover.

 

[sdpatt]

If the starter can turn the engine over, it is strong enough to get it to start.

If the engine could start before and cannot start now, first inspect only those items that you touched durnig the service.

How did you keep the coolant off the timing belt? How did you get the center timing belt cover off without removnig the CPS wiring harness? If you stressed the harness, you may have damaged one of the conductors. Check the CPS's electrical connectors at the top of the intake, above teh water pump and to teh driver side of the rear timing belt cover.

Check the tightness of the 12mm bolts that secure the intake balance tube to the front and rear plenums and the hose clamps on the rubber connectors. That ground path through the bolts is essential for correct operation of the DIS module mounted on that balance tube. Check the electrical connectors on the DIS module to make sure they are fully attached.

When the engine starts, follow the idle speed reset procedure in the sticky post at the top of this Forum section.

 

[gchld25]

I have triple checked the items that I touched during the service and can not find anything wrong. I had a couple rags in place so that any coolant that came out of the water pump did not directly get on the timing belt. I can not see where I damaged the CPS from moving out of the way a little but I am not totally sure. Is there a way to test if it is bad? I have one on order since no one around here keeps SHO parts in stock. Also if I replace it, is there anything I need to know besides the gapping, like does the timing belt have to come off to replace and if so how do you set the timing?

 

[MeSHOYouHow]

try the ground on the dis

 

[gchld25]

I have read in a few different post that say when replacing the CPS you need to gap it to 0.03. what and how do you gap it? I just received my new one and I do not see where it is possible to gap anything.

 

[SHO_Driver]

To set the gap on the CPS check this site:

http://www.shophoenixproject.com/lower60k/lower60k.htm

Look at page 3 There are some nice pictures of the whole process.

 

[gchld25]

So I replaced my CPS, put everything back together and I still can not start my car. I took my Ignition module to NAPA and had it tested and they said all was good, they ran a test on it 3 times and it passed all three. I did a ohm test on my coil back and from what I can tell it seems to be fine. I got the same ohm reading on all three coils. The only sensor I have not checked is the CAM position sensor, is there a way to test this? The other thing that has crossed my mind is that maybe I fried my computer, is that possible? I appreciate all the help I have received so far but I am still very frustrated. Please help if you can I do not want to have to tow this car to Ford, and get *****. Thanks.

 

[rangerj]

With a DIGITAL Multi Meter and an LED light probe you can test the DIS system including the Cylinder Identification sensor (aka cam position sensor). Do a search in re testing the DIS. If you cannot find it and/or have further questions get back to us.

It would be a good idea to clean all the ground connections which includes the two bottom screws (thanks SHOZ123) that hold the DIS module to the intake crossover tube. The two bolts that hold the crossover tube to the heads are also "grounds". The small black lead off of the battery that is screwed to the right inner fender near the battery is also a ground, as is the ground strap from the right side of the intake, by the firewall, screwed to the firewall.

Clean off any corrosion and coat any screws with anti-sieze compound, or copper shield, to promote good "contact" for conduction. You could also use grease for this.

Don't forget the battery terminals and the other end of these major connections, especially the ground. Just some thoughts. rangerj

 

[Bizzy]

Did you unplug the little ground wire for the car's computer when you started the work? Is this little plug still plugged in? If not, or if the connection is not good the car will crank and crank and crank and not start. If you're not familiar with the one I'm referring to take a look at your negative battery terminal. There's the big wire that's connected to it along with a smaller separate wire. Follow that little wire back toward the fire wall on the passenger side. It'll be close to where the power steering pump reservior attaches to the fender well.