Anyone install a SHO Shop double core radiator?

[Hack]

I am curious what others have done to mount the radiator overflow "bottle". I have a few ideas rattling around, but I am thinking there is an easier solution. What have you all done?

Kind of along the same lines, is there any negative side effect to eliminating the low coolant sensor? (Besides the obvious, that I will no longer have the idiot light to tell me if I am low on fluid.) Does it effect the EEC in any way,etc.? I am considering picking up an inexspensive catch can from the likes of summit.

Like these;

 

[SHO NUT]

yellowSHO:
I am curious what others have done to mount the radiator overflow "bottle". I have a few ideas rattling around, but I am thinking there is an easier solution. What have you all done?

Kind of along the same lines, is there any negative side effect to eliminating the low coolant sensor? (Besides the obvious, that I will no longer have the idiot light to tell me if I am low on fluid.) Does it effect the EEC in any way,etc.? I am considering picking up an inexspensive catch can from the likes of summit.

Like these;

I'm not sure which double core rad the SS is selling now, or which one it was when you bought yours, but I've installed the GDI/Godan double core.

I installed the bottle in the same place.

I had to drill 2 new holes at the top to move it towards the engine about 1/2" or so.

The tab at the bottom JUST slid into a slot on the rear face of the lower rad support - the tab had to be bent a little.

The bracket on the front motor mount had to be removed. I don't run motor mount dampeners, so this was not an issue.



However, it's still very tight to get the bottle in and out, and depending on the car's mood, the rad shroud has to be removed to allow sideways movement. In fact, the only reason it fits is because the bottle is already relieved for the alternator. This is with a 95 car, with an alternator that sticks out further than the 89-93 cars, so the earlier cars may have more room.

Then I still have the low coolant system working. (Which has no EEC connection, BTW).

The savvy solution is to install the ATX coolant bottle/battery setup and slightly relocate the P/S reservoir. The even-more-savvy put the battery in the trunk. This won't work for a SS blower though.

<small>[ February 14, 2004, 06:50 AM: Message edited by: SHO NUT ]</small>

 

[Hack]

Thanks Josh! I do not have the dampeners either and I have relocated my battery to the trunk. There is plenty of room in there. I will drill new mounting holes as you suggest. thumb

-edit- I am not sure which brand that it is. I just purchased it last month with some core charges that had not been credited to me. I looked over the box, but it only had the SHO Shop logo.

<small>[ February 14, 2004, 03:52 PM: Message edited by: yellowSHO ]</small>

 

[Hack]

Redrilling the mounting holes worked like a charm! I had to heat and bend the tab at the bottom of the bottle to get it to hook into the core support, but pretty straight forward over all. I was way overthinking the problem. I was considering fabricating a new bracket. headbang

Next dumb question, when installing the plugs on the side of the radiator, should I use teflon tape or some other type of sealant? Here is a pic of what I am talking about on the old radiator.

Here is my front motor mount btw;

Lots of vibration transmitted through it, but leaves me with lots of extra space and weighs about half of what the factory mount/dampener weigh.

<small>[ February 14, 2004, 07:41 PM: Message edited by: yellowSHO ]</small>

 

[AutoSHO]

You do not need to plug them. If you do, you don't need teflon tape.

 

[Hack]

Thanks Chris! thumb

 

[Mike Kopstain]

Glen,

For a stock look, you might consider swapping to a 93' - 95' ATX overflow/ windshield washer resivour.

Edit: I should have read Josh's post before recomending that. Echo echo echo...

<small>[ February 14, 2004, 09:01 PM: Message edited by: Mikeys_Taurus ]</small>