Anybody need aluminum SFB's?

[JB]

Decided w/Jeremy's spec's on the Subframe bushings, to make myself a set so I picked up some 3" 6061-T6.

While debating whether to try to turn them on my rather small Craftsman lathe (with which I'm admittedly less than skilled)or machine them on the VMC at work, I talked to my partner at Jomar Performance Products, and we did a little calculating.

My partner John invented the rocker arm stud girdle years ago and we produce several hundred variations today(for those old-fashioned pushrod engines), along with a multitude of phenolic carb and FI spacers, insulators, and adapters, degree wheels, aluminum AN wrenches etc..

We could sell the bushings for about $95.00 a set or $120.00 for hard anodized for all of us saltier types in the midwest and northern states.

I really couldn't estimate a projected demand, but we'd like to do about 15-20 sets to make it worth the time to make the tooling.

Any interest, let me know and we'll make some fixtures and run off a decent quantity.

Regards,

JB

 

[RJ-92]

I would be interested. But I won't have any jack 'till well after Christmas.

------------------
Ron Wazz

Red 92 MTX 109K
ss y-pipe,
dynomax cat-back w/1 superturbo & 1 ultra-flo muffler,
street/strip clutch,
18Lb. fly wheel,
ss tq limiters,
bored out MAF,
UDPs, ported intake
Konis and Eibachs, 26mm RSB
In storage for the winter

 

[SHOFF]

i want a set

------------------
Sho shop cams
80mm mass air
big bore butterflys
underdrive pullys
strut bars, front and rear
cold air intake
high flow y pipe and cads
18 inch quatem tek wheels
eibach springs
2 tvs
dvd
playstation
5000 watt system
www.shoracing.com/pix/g2/donnyc_93sho.jpg

 

[jimtash]

I'll buy a set. When will they be ready?

 

[[email protected]]

For $95/$120, you've got my money.

I'm not in a majorly salty environment, but I'm only an hour from the Oregon coast, and I go there rather often.

I'll want the $120 anodized ones. Can you anodize them in red? Dunno if the color red is possible. I've seen stuff anodized in blue, gold, black...

I've got a red SHO, and anything I can buy in red for mechanical parts, I am.

Also, if you make enough extras, you should put them up on the web for sale.

The only places I've been able to find them so far is SHOnut ($150 I think?) and CincySHO ($200-$250).

Let me know what info of mine you need.

 

[Blast7]

I am seriously interested, but I won't have the money until January. I have to wait until I send my valve shim rental kit back.

------------------
1991 Black MTX
K&N Filtercharger
PP Motor Mounts
Rod Shifter
Blazer Tech Fogs
Want to Buy:
~1st Gen Black rust free trunklid
~1st Gen Black rust free front door mouldings

 

[jthomas68]

They technically could be done on a small laythe,but it would be alot of work to do a few sets at a time.The ideal way would be to use a nice fixture(which i believe the rest are)on a CNC(or equivelent)and bust out a few sets quickly.Good luck with them!!

------------------
Jeremy Thomas
Juiced 91+
SHO Pic Of The Week:

 

[ND 4 SPD SHO]

I would also like a set, but won't have money for it 'til mid-January

------------------
Zoltan
'92 SHO -- few mods

'01 CBR 929RR -- no need for mods, but are coming

 

[SHOnOFF]

I'm interested but need to figure out finances. I'll have a better idea in a few weeks after New Year's. Will they be just as good (or better) than the SHO Nut ones? Thanks.



------------------
Brian
'94 Green ATX
5%/13% Tint
Coneless/Boxless
Upper 60K - Finally! (8/18)
Blazer driving lights
96 Brake Upgrade
24/26mm sway bars waiting to go in (need bushings)

 

[SnoSho]

Anyone think Alm SFB's would put too much stress on my next SHO. I was really leaning towards the Police rubber ones because of that. I don't want ot push more problems onto the car.

Tim M.

 

[jthomas68]

The police bushings have been shown to be the standard Taurus bushings,but painted blue.The aluminum ones don`t change ride quality,just the feel(on my SHO anyways).

------------------
Jeremy Thomas
Juiced 91+
SHO Pic Of The Week:

 

[SnoSho]

I'm not so worried about ride as stress on the car. It may be a SHO but it also will always be a Taurus. I don't want to end up with a unibody tweak cause the *** holes of spring jumped up and bit me. I'm looking to buy a Gen1 in the summer to be my project and I just want it to last till I can have fun with it

Tim M.

 

[philw349]

I didn't know aluminum subframe bushings could rust. And if the anodizing is for looks it won't matter because you will never see them. Just wondering, why the anodizing.

 

[[email protected]]

Originally posted by philw349:
I didn't know aluminum subframe bushings could rust. And if the anodizing is for looks it won't matter because you will never see them. Just wondering, why the anodizing.

I would assume that the roadsalts could pit them and stuff. I would think that anodizing would help prevent that.

Just my thoughts on it.

I want them in red, even if very few people will ever see them. I'm gonna paint my SFC's red, or find some place to powdercoat them red, even though not many people will see them.

I'm just weird like that.

 

[1slickRED89]

$85 is a great price! i had the chance to make a set a while ago, aside from a dumb mistake, it went well. anyhow there is no way that anyone without a CNC lathe could be made for less than $85, they take a long time to make by hand. thats an amazing price.

anyhow i was thinking the since the rack&pinton is mostly supported by the rear bushings (as in side to side movements), aluminum installed in only the two rear bushings might give the similar result, at about half the cost.

to further save on materials/labor cost ($2.25 per inch for 3" round aluminum/$50 an hour) i think the the 'improved design' bottom plate, the STEEL one, would work just fine, and maybe provide an extra margin of safty. the bottom half of the mount ONLY translates an 'up' force from the bolt to the bottom of the subframe, it has no direct role in cornering forces acting on the subframe. so even if it was rubber i think it would work as good if not better than an aluminum one.

so i'm saying imporvend design bushings, top and bottom, on the front and aluminum only on the top on the rear with improved ford lower bushing might give similar results as aluminum installed everywhere.

Corey
89SHO

 

[bckicked]

how fast can i get the anadized ones, im in just let me know

 

[harleykids]

Let me know where to send the check!
Will the drop in exactly on my stock 1993 SHO mtx? Are they the correct dimensions to be a drop-in replacement? Let me know when to order!

 

[CTOESHO]

Is this offer still available? Thanks.

Mike
93mtx

 

[JB]

Yes it is.

We're (finally) close to having the first batch done - apologies to everyone who is waiting. I have learned my lesson about projecting an expected completion date for a new project!

JB

 

[Shoman94]

SnoSho:
Anyone think Alm SFB's would put too much stress on my next SHO. I was really leaning towards the Police rubber ones because of that. I don't want ot push more problems onto the car.

Tim M.

I noticed a good improvment on the police bushings. Basicly the only difference were the front ones to help with torque steer. What I did was 4 police bushings..(ALL 4 CORNERS) I had to drill the rear for the little bolts and thats it. Big difference for me anyways, and I don't get the engine and steering vibratioins that some people complain about. That was critical for me since I drive my car everyday.