Almost at wit's end...

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sandrew

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Basically I've been chasing a misfire on cylinder 4 for quite awhile. Last year I bought 4 new coils when 45 or so of them popped up on ebay for $25/ea. After installing them in the rear bank the car seemed to run better for a little while then it popped the same code.

Everybody was of the opinion that it HAD to be a coil...so I bought 2 more from RockAuto about a month ago.

Fast forward to last weekend - I replaced the coils on cylinders 3 & 4 as Ford's diagnostic machine picked up the misfire on 4 as well as an intermittent on 3 that hadn't shown on the hand scanner at AZ. I also put in Autolite XP Iridium plugs all the way around. The wiring harness/loom didn't have any spots burned through that I could see.

The car ran code-free until today, when it did the flashing SES light showing an active misfire for about 30sec, after which I'm assuming the pcm shut the injector off. It only seems to do this (blinking SES light) after being parked at an angle in the parking lot while I'm at work. (the lot has a couple of degree downward slope) It also doesn't do it every single time. Sometimes a day or two in a row, sometimes not for weeks. It isn't using coolant so I doubt it's a headgasket leaking into the cylinder. The ford tech said fuel pressure was fine when they had it hooked up to the machine awhile back but I'm assuming they can only check pressure at the rail, not individual injectors. I'm beginning to wonder if I have the fabled 'chrome flaked off the fuel rail" syndrome. If a little piece of chrome is getting pushed around in the injector filter/screen/whatever wouldn't that cause an intermittent problem?

I bought a remanufactured injector from RockAuto and unless anybody else has any better ideas I'll pull the fuel rail and replace the injector on #4 this weekend. The injector I received is gray, though, not yellow, and the whole bottom half is metal instead of plastic like the ones pictured on the website. The part # matches what RockAuto has listed on their website, GB REMANUFACTURING Part # 82211147.

Here's what it looks like:

reman_injector.jpg


Will this work or did they send me the wrong thing?

Any and all help diagnosing this would be appreciated. If swapping the injector doesn't work I'm going to have to spend my tax refund taking this somewhere to have it worked on, and with what Ford charges, it isn't going to be them... Too bad NESHO isn't doing any roadtrips to the Omaha, NE regional area. :p

Scott
 

wymjym

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I have also been chasing a miss. I elected to buy 8 used injectors and have them flow tested and cleaned.
I think the injector you have is incorrect. My total cost for 8 injectors + cleaning + shipping was 200 +/-. That way I knew that all of them were good to go. ps I still have a miss.
Shoinj

wj
 

sandrew

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Thanks for the pic. I put up a better one of the injector RockAuto sent me.

Looks like I get to send it back and wait for a correct one...
 

welcome2daSHO

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ya, i ordered an injector sent for my car they seemed a good deal, and they were the wrong ones, they sent me the injectors for a dodge ram...weird
 

E1 v2

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Sandrew -
Looks more like a "Standard" Mustang type injector that you were sent.

Look at Wymjym's pic closely. See how short the distance is between the bottom of the plug and the bottom of the injector? Now look at your pic - much longer distance = won't fit. The fatter barrel will "fit" into your fuel rail or LIM, but the injector is too long to fit all 8 slots and come together properly.

Another fit issue I've seen in mail order SHO fuel injectors -
There are 3 common variations in "Our" injectors -
96 - 97 are a yellow-orange color with a square connector.
98 are orange color with a square plug.
99 are orange color with a "D" shaped plug.

96-98 types will fit all 96 - 98's in my experiences.
99's will only fit 99's.
 

sandrew

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Thanks - I got an email from RockAuto last night after sending them my part #'s and the above pics. They think the injector I got was 'mis-boxed'. I should get a replacement next week. I have a bad feeling it isn't going to help, though.
 

sandrew

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Related question(s) regarding the coil wiring harness:

1) What diameter loom is on the rear coil wiring? There are some nice high-temp sleeves/loom material at Summit Racing but I need to know what size to order.
2) What gauge is the coil wiring in case I need to replace some? And is it stranded or solid?

If the new fuel injector doesn't help I'm tearing the old loom & tape off of the coil and fuel injector wiring to look for problems.
 

St Louis SHO

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I've had a few fords tell you a misfire on cyl 4, but you need to check the cylinders on each side of it in the firing order. Say your firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2, I'd double check cylinders 8 and 3, just to be sure. I had one bite me in the ass... took me 2 days of chasing my tail to swap a coil one more time and fix the misfire.

- James
 

NebraskaSHO

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Sorry I am not of more help. I'm only 40 minutes away but am so busy with Student Teaching and diagnosing a 12 mpg problem that I basically sleep half the weekend away.
 

SHOZ123

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I wrapped the OEM loom with 3/4" split high temp loom. Works great and is cheap. It will not cover 100% of the existing loom but will do the job against the hot metal surfaces.

High temp loom will have a white stripe on it and can take 300F.
 

Mr Anonymous

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I bet you could buy a complete set of 8 used injectors as well as send them out for cleaning and flow testing for around the same price as a single injector from RockAuto.
 

sandrew

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No worries, NebraskaSHO. :) If you do find a vacuum leak let me know as I think I have a small one, too. I pulled the IAC connector while the car was running and it didn't die. It came REAL close, though.

St. Louis SHO: Thanks. There are only 2 of the original coils left, 7 & 8. I'll try swapping those out one at a time with some of the old coils that I kept.

edit: Thanks, Paul Nimz for the loom size.

I have an injector coming sometime this week from RockAuto (hopefully the right one this time), 2 more coils so I'll finally have all 8 originals replaced and some high-temp Mica tape from McMaster-Carr to rewrap the wiring harnesses in after I unwrap 'em to look for damaged wires.
I also found the correct compression tester probe size thanks to a reply in my other thread. It appears a 14mm "long reach" is needed with our heads. The cheapie kit I bought from Harbor Freight only has a shortie with hardly any thread area.

Once I rip the surge tank off again, though, the results of the compression test could render me checking the wire harness unecessary. I'm hoping not, but with my luck...

One other thing - are those stupid plastic screws that hold the cowl cover on something I can grab at AZ or Advance Auto? A couple of the ones on my car aren't exactly straight anymore and not really helping hold the cowl tight enough to keep water from leaking down onto my cabin air filter. I'll stop at Advance on my way home from work to look but figured it couldn't hurt to ask first.

edit 2: The fuel injector is a reman, not a brand new one.
 
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NebraskaSHO

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I found them in the auveco catalog.

Haven't found them at AZ yet though. Just looked Sunday too.
 

ruWelded

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SS Screws

I use zip (speed) nuts and SS screws, I don't mind the look. You have to notch out a few of the holes to get them to work. I guess you could use some sort of black screw as well. The plastic ones always break after a while, my local Auto Zone has them.
 
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SHOZ123

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There is a metal black plastic coated phillps screw called weather head or something like that. www.mcmaster.com has them. Longest #10 screw they had IIRC.
 

sandrew

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Fuel injector wasn't it. Didn't really expect it to be but it was the least labor intensive and only cost $40 to rule out.

Did a compression test on the rear bank today (cold test, obviously). Cylinder 1 & 2? About 185psi each. Cyliner 3? 90. Cylinder 4? 60. :madflame:

5-8 are all around 185-190. Figures. It WOULD be the back bank.

Squirting some oil into the cylinder raised #4 from 60 to almost 90. Not NEARLY enough. So does this mean burnt valves in 3 & 4 or bad rings?

If I'm going to fix it I'm going to need a rundown of parts I'm going to need - Midnight Auto has (last time I checked anyway) a rear head gasket for sale. I know those are difficult to find. How hard are valves/valve seats to find? Rings? Head bolts?

Any idea how much $$ we're talking in labor? This will have to be farmed out as it is WAY above my ability level.
 

NebraskaSHO

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Andrew, I think he has a cylinder head available too.

Might that be cheaper?
 

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