AC problem

[wymjym]

Hi,
I bought a 97 SHO last fall and am only now getting it on the road.
The AC works okay, not as cold as my SLO…for a while. I would guess that after around 8~10 minutes of use the compressor kicks out and there is no AC until the next day…or maybe the day after that. The only consistency is that if it works it only works for a short period of time.
The system has freon in it. I have replaced the pressure switch on the dryer and that made no difference.
I’m not sure if there are any peculiar AC issues with the Genlll SHO or not, but I couldn’t find any listed.
I would appreciate some guidance as to where to look next for this culprit…it is about to get warm around here.
Thanks
wj

 

[Inkertinker]

I'm in the same boat, my 97 did exactly the same thing. Last summer I had the A/C compressor replaced with a used one. The A/C works longer now about 30 to 40 minutes depending on how hot it is. (the higher the outside temp is the shorter time the A/C works) I had the 134 evacuated today (the shop said it was contaminated) and I am replacing the dryer tomorrow, hoping that works. I'll be watching to see if anyone else post too. I could use the input also.

Thanks

 

[SHOZ123]

Sounds like a weak coil on the clutch. Either a new coil or a shimectomy is needed. What is the resistance reading of the clutch coil? Should be greater than 6 ohms.

Could also be a cycling switch or improper amount of freon. Be sure the coil is getting battery voltage when the cycling switch calls for compressor activity.

 

[wymjym]

what is the cycling switch?
It does have enough freon and the switch that sense that pressure is also good.
wj

 

[naval-avi8or]

RESHIM THE AIR GAP and you'll be fine. The clutch has worn to a point that the airgap is too large and only gets larger as the engine bay warms up. Once its warm than the eletromanetic coil doesn't have enough power to pull the clutch plate closed.

 

[wymjym]

RESHIM THE AIR GAP and you'll be fine. The clutch has worn to a point that the airgap is too large and only gets larger as the engine bay warms up. Once its warm than the eletromanetic coil doesn't have enough power to pull the clutch plate closed.

thanks, I shall do that and with fingers crossed see how it works out (next week).
wj

 

[wymjym]

Too many other things going on so my 'next week' turned into next month (or so). At any rate, I have the following instructions and need a bit of clarification.
the instructions from v8sho;
#1 remove wheel
#2 remove wheel well splash guard.
#3 remove serp belt, I didn't need to remove the SARC to get serp off
#4 remove coolant reservoir
#5 remove cover under front bumper of car "allows access to bottom of A/C compressor and radiator
#6 remove lower rad hose and pull back toward drivers side of vehicle "This allows access to everything you need to get to under the front of the car.
#7 remove 3 mounting bolts from compressor from underneath the car. I had a hard time getting these out, a universal joint on the ratchet would have been helpful since it's very tight without removing the radiator..
#8 with a helper holding compressor where needed, I removed the bolt from compressor for clutch removal
#9 remove shim #10 recheck clearances #11 reassemble

It was very very tight to get the bolt for the clutch out. I had to first put the socket on the bolt then slip the ratchet into the socket. It barely fit. Just a FYI, but it is possible.


my questions;
do I access this clutch pack bolt from the wheel well, under the car or inside the engine compartment?
Do I need a special puller?
Can this be done without breaking open the freon lines? (there are hard lines that don't look as if they will give very much movement)
any advice that can help clear this up would sure be appreciated.
wj

 

[naval-avi8or]

Last time I did this it was on my 94's (V6) and there was no need to break any of the lines loose. I did unbolt the compressor and manipulated it around to make the pully face up in order to remove the clutch pack. You can use a ac clutch removal tool but most just carfully use to large flat bladed screwdrivers to gently pry back and forth to walk the pully off. Hopefully some of the GEN III guys/gals can give you more insight on the GEN III body spacific tricks. I'm getting ready to probably need to do the my 94 now with the V8 as it has the same issue when it gets warm out.