AC Problem with Chatter...

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

aaronsbiza

New Member
Joined
Nov 11, 2002
Messages
216
Reaction score
0
Location
Sacramento, California
95 ATX 92k...

Yesterday I was driving on the highway with the ac on full, working perfectly. The temperature warmed up a bit and then the ac clutch engaged, colling the air . Soon thereafter the ac was not working at all. Earlier in the week I had noticed a slight chattering noise with the ac on. Now that the ac does not work there is a very faint chattering noise constant with the engine. This chattering noise dissapears when I turn MAC/AC on, but still no AC.

Does anyone have any suggestions?
 

aaronsbiza

New Member
Joined
Nov 11, 2002
Messages
216
Reaction score
0
Location
Sacramento, California
I tested the clutch by having a friend turn the AC on and off from within the car. With the AC off the the outer pulley hub was not spinning. When the AC was turned on the Outer hub grabbed but was accompanied by a loud chattering/grinding noise. Please tell me I am not looking at a new compressor. How do I proceed with determining the failure?
 

SHO_Driver

New Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2002
Messages
517
Reaction score
0
Location
Montreal, QC
Best bet would be to remove the clutch, check if its finished. Then you can remove the pulley to check if the bearing is toasted.
 

SHOmaniac1975

Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2004
Messages
60
Reaction score
0
Location
Pittsfield, Ma
Take the clutch face off and check the clutch gap. Mine did the same thing, and all I did was adjust the clutch gap. Now it is as good as new.
 

aaronsbiza

New Member
Joined
Nov 11, 2002
Messages
216
Reaction score
0
Location
Sacramento, California
How do I remove the front hub? Do I need to pull the condessor to adjust the gap? How do I check the gap? Can I just purchase the entire pully with clutch and hub and bolt it in?
 

SHOmaniac1975

Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2004
Messages
60
Reaction score
0
Location
Pittsfield, Ma
Pull the battery, unbolt the clutch disk. There is a 10mm nut in the disk, that's all that holds the disk on. The trick is holding the disk while you loosen the nut. The disk may need some gentle persuasion to slide off the compressor shaft.Once the clutch face is pryed off (wood shims between the surfaces) of the compressor shaft you will find a "snap-ring holding the pulley in place. You loosen the compressor so you can tilt it to get at the snap rings. DO NOT DISCONNECT any A/C lines.Remove the snap-ring and the pulley, and there is another snap-ring holding the coil to the compressor. Disconnect the electrical connection to the coil. The compressor has a little "***" that lines up with the hole in the coil.

The snap-rings are beveled on one side and the beveled side should face you for correct instalation. You do not have to replace the compressor, nor discharge the system in order to replace the clutch assembly, that is the coil, clutch pulley (six rib), and clutch face. (Clutch assembly for a 10P15F Nippondenso compressor)

The face has small washers inside its shaft of different thicknesses that set the clutch gap. The gap is made smaller by using the thinner washers, or larger by using thicker washers. The gap should be about .035. Save the washers from the old clutch in case you need them to adjust the gap.

The clutch needs to be burnished and you do this by turning on the A/C for about 20 seconds at a time, for about 20 times. Read the instructions that come with the clutch assembly. They should tell you about installation and adjustments, as well as the "run-in" or burnishing of the surfaces of the clutch.

***NOTE***You will need a snap ring tool, costs about 11 dollars, these are the instructions for changing the clutch, or just setting the gap. A new clutch costs about 77 dollars.
 

shojuan

New Member
Joined
Aug 14, 2002
Messages
7,222
Reaction score
1
Location
sunny San Juan Bautista,
aaronsbiza said:
How do I remove the front hub? Do I need to pull the condessor to adjust the gap? How do I check the gap? Can I just purchase the entire pully with clutch and hub and bolt it in?
You can buy a field coil/compressor clutch/pulley/bearing kit from autozone, a brand new part...not rebuilt (the rebuilt costs MORE from autozone, lol!!! :lol:) for about $85. Believe it or not if you just try to buy the clutch without the field coil or vice versa you won't really save (most $10. You will pay MORE if you buy from a more expensive store like NAPA). The kit I described is a normal stock item for autozone. Unlike NAPA your local autozone WILL have one in stock unless a fellow SHO owner just bought the unit off the shelf and the supply truck hasn't replaced the store's stock yet.

Do yourself a favor if you decide to go this route: FORGET the cheap $10 snap ring pliars. You will have hours of grief and possibly no success and I don't care HOW POOR you are the savings will NOT be worth it. Buy a quality set of snapring pliars that can handle a 2" external snapring. Because the field coil is retained by, yup, a 2" external snapring. I paid $31 at NAPA for a KD tools KD-3151 (NAPA part number 3151) "Super-Duty Large" pair of convertible snap ring pliars (convertible means one pair does both internal and external snaprings. That would cost you $16 for a pair of cheap crap internal and external individual $8 "**** bringer" snapring pliars at the local discount auto store). The same KD-3151 pliars can be had from discount online vendors for $20 + shipping. I say go for the NAPA convenience. Plus they're NAPA labeled which make a lifetime warranty exchange easy, just scoot on down to your local NAPA.

The field coil snapring is a bit tricky. It took me about 3 minutes to install with my nice KD tools pliars. It took me about 5 hours to REMOVE using cheap snapring pliars to weaken the snapring and a pair of screwdrivers to finish the job. I couldn't even get the snapring installed with the cheap pliars. After hours went to NAPA, got the real deal. 3 minutes of trickery. Bam. Installed. Plus I got nice pliars that will last forever now and can handle up to 2" rings no problems. The cheapies, also lifetime warranted I might add :lol:, broke. And that's after only a few uses. Then I fixed them. Then they broke again. Then I fixed 'em better. Then I found out that even fully functional they just weren't up to the task. Hence the many hours of grief. Hence the justifiable label of "**** Bringers" that now goes on those **** pliars.

You can read about my ordeal here:

http://shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=32822&highlight=field+KD

You might also have a bad compressor and that's where the noise is coming from. In my case I didn't have noise. Just no AC: a low charge and a worn clutch and a dying field coil that didn't like the heat.

One more bit of advice. Listen to EVERYTHING rangerj tells you about AC. He knows his poo. Rob94 knows a thing or two about AC also. He has been through the whole AC ordeal and has given some thought to each piece that he paid dear money for. I say you can listen to about 98% of what he has to say. Isn't that right Rob? :D
 

shojuan

New Member
Joined
Aug 14, 2002
Messages
7,222
Reaction score
1
Location
sunny San Juan Bautista,
SHOmaniac1975 said:
You loosen the compressor so you can tilt it to get at the snap rings. DO NOT DISCONNECT any A/C lines.
I removed all 4 bolts. I was also removing the front motor mount. That made things easier as far as bolt access. If you go that route then make sure to tilt with the pulley facing UP towards where the battery is so you can attack it from above. I started out going at it from the fender well, pulley tilted down a bit. Big pain in the ***. Tilted up it is much easier to go to town on. The nice thing about the autozone kit is the hub has projecting dampers vs. the stock flat pancake rubber damper. You can grap onto the autozone version and hold tight while you torque the hub nut. The stock version requires a strap wrench, the special tool, or just some stubborn inguinuity :)D, that's all I had here!) to hold tight while you loosen or tighten to torque spec. Since you've got stock now, you will need that strap wrench or the autozone rental spanner wrench (it was missing from the store when I wanted to rent) to remove the hub nut. Or get clever and try to wedge it still.

For the wood shims I just found some redwood sticks I had in the yard, broke them in half and got the pointy ends started between the clutch faces of the hub and pulley. Then whacked to wood with a hammer. You want to do all this before unbolting the compressor. Don't worry, when you put the new pulley on it will come off much easier (a pair of vicegrips on the center for the autozone kit) provided you lightly grease the bore of the new pulley. To get your clutch gap just right you might need to (ought to plan on) removing the new pulley a couple times to add/remove shims that come with the kit.

The face has small washers inside its shaft of different thicknesses that set the clutch gap. The gap is made smaller by using the thinner washers, or larger by using thicker washers. The gap should be about .035. Save the washers from the old clutch in case you need them to adjust the gap.
The new Japanese made clutch/fieldcoil/pulley kit I bought from autozone came with 5 shims. 2 thick and 3 thin. I used 4 of them. All but one thin. This is a bit different then the Helms will describe the stock Ford parts. Two thick shims is the standard starting point there. Or a thick and a thin. With the autozone, nope, it took 4. Good. More shims I can remove later for keeping the gap within spec if I drive the car another 200,000 miles. Also my kit came with no instructions. Just follow the burnishing instructions given here. Run the AC for 15-30 seconds and then turn it off. Do this 20 times. I let it rest for 15-30 seconds between on/off cycles when turning it off. Don't know if that's necessary. It's all done now so I don't really care. Maybe rangerj can clarify whether there needs to be a specific off period between burnishing cycles.
 

aaronsbiza

New Member
Joined
Nov 11, 2002
Messages
216
Reaction score
0
Location
Sacramento, California
Now, before I dive into this project I would like to rule out the compressor being bad or locking up.

Is there a test I can perform to rule out the compressor or to pinpoint the problem?

Thanks
 
Back
Top