AC leak in metal hose

[Warren]

Hi I have a leak in my AC. I shot the system with UV dye and found there is a hairline crack right in the inner elbow here. If I move the line around it opens and closes the crack very slightly.

Any info on how I can fix this? Do I really need to change out the whole accumulator?

 

[SHOtimer]

Yes, you change the whole accumulator. It is serviceable (replaceable) as a whole unit. I would personally change the orifice tube also - since it is right there, is easy, and is a maintenance item when the AC system is open.

FYI, the accumulator on your car is not from the factor, it is a replacement so probably a bad weld..or defect.

It's easy, just get the spring lock disconnection tool kit and replace the pieces then get it vacuumed and re-charged.

Doug

 

[Warren]

What needs to get vaccumed? There is no more refridgerant in there at all I dont think. Also, do I need to put oil in it? Would oil leak out of that part thats cracked also? I have a feeling this piece cracked about a month ago, thats when my AC stopped working, I refilled it and it worked for 2 or 3 days before it stopped working again.

 

[JRA2000TL]

Yes you need the whole accumulator assembly. Unfortunately, it's welded to a long metal line that connects at the firewall. It can be a bit of a PITA to remove. You'll have to remove the battery and tray, crossover tube, the bolt holding down the power steering reservior (and just move it out of the way). Remove the switch on top of the accumulator and detach it from the firewall and bottom hose under the car with those quick-disconnect tools mentioned. I also removed my alternator because I couldn't find enough room to remove the canister part otherwise. Since you're already in there and have that stuff out of the way, just replace the liquid line with integrated orifice tube. It's about $25. Once all that stuff is in, perform a vacuum and recharge. Make sure to **** the o-rings with PAG 46 oil. New o-rings will come on the new accumulator. If you replace the liquid line, you might want to replace the o-rings where it connects to the condenser. O-rings are about $10 for a pack.

You need to perform a vacuum before a recharge even if there's nothing in there because when you open the system, moisture from the atmosphere can get in there and ruin your accumulator. Just vacuum and recharge once it has been put back together.

 

[Shovert]

I agree to pull vac. Moisture can cause moisture in the system to freeze. That plugs the small orfices/txv [depending on system]. [Unknown what a SHO has by me]. Also air takes up room in the system that the freon needs. It also cause high discharge pressures since air does not condense at the pressures in a the system. I am not a auto AC tech but I am certified HVAC/refrigeration tech for non-auto systems. Maurice

 

[rubydist]

when you open the a/c system to the air (to change the bad part) you MUST vacuum out all of the air to remove all the moisture from the system, and to have a vacuum so that you can get the required amount of refrigerant into the system without overpressurizing it.

 

[JRA2000TL]

Also, If you have a decent air compressor 26-30 gal+ you can buy a $15 venturi vacuum pump from Harbor Freight that will run off of it. That works OK to vacuum the system; however, you might be able to rent an electric pump from your parts store loan-a-tool program. Then you can save the $100 evac/recharge labor fee a shop would charge. The electric pumps vacuum better. You need about 31 oz. of 134a, IIRC. That's about $45 worth. Not quite 3 whole cans. A shop will charge roughly $150 for the evac/recharge and freon. That's about what I paid. Seriously though, you want to replace that liquid line while you're in there. You have all that crap removed and out of the way, for $25, it would be crazy not to.

I am cheap. I like to half-ass things and cut corners when I can, but a/c is one of those things you can't really half-ass or it will come back and bite you. It's a pressurized system that must be repaired correctly to fully function as it should. Do it once and do it correctly and save yourself a headache. Just did a/c work on my 95 and need some done on my 89.

If those lines are rusty, you may have issues with the quick-disconnect in removing them. Use PB blast in the connectors if you have problems. The line that connects to the bottom of your accumulator and goes back to the compressor is obsolete. If you booger up that line connection, you'll need to go to a hydraulic hose shop and have them install new rubber and fittings done. I had to do this and it cost me about $55. My hose connection got "out of round" because I had to use vice grips to remove it. You live in the North and I live in the South---and mine was still seized on there due to corrosion. Just keep that issue in mind as well.

Post back or PM me if you have any other issues. I just went through this ordeal myself, so I'm very familiar with it.