ac compressor

[seelowjp]

my ac didnt work and the pully didnt spin. i took off the clutch but now i have more questions.
first: is the clutch one peice or two? mine is in 2 parts.
Second: how do you get the snap ring of the pully?
third i have copper wires all stuck in the pully where are they from
if the stud that the clutch bolts up on still spins should the compressor still be good?

 

[DHMag]

seelowjp:
my ac didnt work and the pully didnt spin. i took off the clutch but now i have more questions.
first: is the clutch one peice or two? mine is in 2 parts.
Second: how do you get the snap ring of the pully?
third i have copper wires all stuck in the pully where are they from
if the stud that the clutch bolts up on still spins should the compressor still be good?

first: 2 pieces, clutch hub and coil.
second: remove the compressor from the engine but you dont have to disconnect the A/C lines
third: copper wires are from the coil. if the compressor turns freely, its still good. but i can guarantee that if you recharge the system, your compressor will more than likely suffer from Black Death. thats what happened to me, belt squealed, engine died, compressor went boom.

 

[rangerj]

Seelowjp,

The A/C clutch assembly consists of THREE (3) parts.
1) The front part, commonly called the clutch face
2) The pulley, which has the other clutch surface on the front of it. It also has a bearing in it.
3) the clutch coil, which is an electromagnet and when it is activated, by electricity, draws the two surfaces together. The coil is connected into the electricl system.

The face is held on to the compressor shaft with a nut (some by a bolt), The shaft may be splined, or may have a woodruf key, that insures that when the clutch is engaged the compressor shaft is turned.

Inside the center of the clutch face, where the compressor shaft fits, are one or more washers that "shim" the distance between the clutch friction surfaces (the face surface and the pulley surface).

This gap between the surfaces is generally about .035. Check the OEM (Original Equiptment Manufacturer) specification for your model year, compressor type etc.

The pulley is held onto the compressor with a snap ring, which is removed with a snap ring pliers. The snap ring is beveled, and the beveled side shoud face outward, that is toward you.

Look in the back side of the pulley. If there is a spring holding in the bearing, it( the bearing), can be replaced. If the bearing is pinned in, or "staked" in, it (the bearing), is not available as a replacement part.

If a bad bearing is the problem, you either replace the bearing if it is available at about $30, or you replace the whole clutch assembly as a unit at approximately $125.

The clutch coil is also held in with a snap ring, and it is removeable with a snap ring pliers. Again the snap ring is beveled on one side. The beveled side should face out, that is toward you.
There is an electrical connection that must be disconnected before the coil can be removed.

The A/C compressor should turn freely with 7 pounds of torque, or less. This is "turning torque", not the amount of torque it takes to get it to turn initially.

Hope this helps, rangerj