ABS CODE 25
- Thread starter JIMSHO
- Start date
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rangerj
Active Member
JIMSHO,
Service Code 25: Check right hand front outlet valve and circuit.
1st. Go to my post on ABS at the top and go through the Pre-test Checks which are a check of the connectors. Disconnect the connectors and check for corrosion, broken pins, broken wires, or any other conductivity problems.
Next go to the electrical diagrams for your model year and find the SHO (the SLO/Sable are different) ABS 55-pin connector and the rest of the connectors mentioned in the pre-test.
The two connectors of most interest to you are the 55 pin connector and the 19 pin connector.
You are going to be doing ohms resistance and continuity test with a Multi-meter (anilog or digital).
A) Disconnect the 19 pin connector and find pins 16 and 7. Trace these pin wires (by color) back to the 55-pin connector and do a continuity test to make sure there are no problems between the 55-pin connector and the 19-pin connector. If there is a continuity problem fix it.
After making any necessary repairs test drive the vehicle at 25 MPH, or more, for several minutes. See if the problems has been resolved. If not, go to B.
B) Next measure the resistance between pins 16 (White wire on the 90 SHO) and 7 (Orange wire/Yellow stripe on the 90 SHO) of the 19-pin connector through the outlet valve. You should get 3 to 6 ohms. If you get any other reading replace the valve body.
Double check your findings. If you have to replace the valve body see if someone has one for sale from a parts car. Before you replace the valve body post your findings and what you did so we can double check everything.
If you have questions I'll be here. rangerj
Service Code 25: Check right hand front outlet valve and circuit.
1st. Go to my post on ABS at the top and go through the Pre-test Checks which are a check of the connectors. Disconnect the connectors and check for corrosion, broken pins, broken wires, or any other conductivity problems.
Next go to the electrical diagrams for your model year and find the SHO (the SLO/Sable are different) ABS 55-pin connector and the rest of the connectors mentioned in the pre-test.
The two connectors of most interest to you are the 55 pin connector and the 19 pin connector.
You are going to be doing ohms resistance and continuity test with a Multi-meter (anilog or digital).
A) Disconnect the 19 pin connector and find pins 16 and 7. Trace these pin wires (by color) back to the 55-pin connector and do a continuity test to make sure there are no problems between the 55-pin connector and the 19-pin connector. If there is a continuity problem fix it.
After making any necessary repairs test drive the vehicle at 25 MPH, or more, for several minutes. See if the problems has been resolved. If not, go to B.
B) Next measure the resistance between pins 16 (White wire on the 90 SHO) and 7 (Orange wire/Yellow stripe on the 90 SHO) of the 19-pin connector through the outlet valve. You should get 3 to 6 ohms. If you get any other reading replace the valve body.
Double check your findings. If you have to replace the valve body see if someone has one for sale from a parts car. Before you replace the valve body post your findings and what you did so we can double check everything.
If you have questions I'll be here. rangerj
rangerj
Active Member
Jim,
Your test results indicate you have a connection problem, rather than an outlet valve problem. Thats good news, so far.
Disconnect and reconnect all connections between the outlet valve and the ECU (55-pin connection). Then go for a test drive and see if the problem is resolved. If not, get back to us and we will take another approach.
Again, I want to repeat that the pins I have cited are from the 1990 Helm service Manual. Please check the ABS section test for the Code 25 for your model year and verify that the pin numbers are the same, and that the ohms resistance test is the same.
You should be able to find a good service manual in your local library, eg Mitchels, Motors, Chiltons. rangerj
Your test results indicate you have a connection problem, rather than an outlet valve problem. Thats good news, so far.
Disconnect and reconnect all connections between the outlet valve and the ECU (55-pin connection). Then go for a test drive and see if the problem is resolved. If not, get back to us and we will take another approach.
Again, I want to repeat that the pins I have cited are from the 1990 Helm service Manual. Please check the ABS section test for the Code 25 for your model year and verify that the pin numbers are the same, and that the ohms resistance test is the same.
You should be able to find a good service manual in your local library, eg Mitchels, Motors, Chiltons. rangerj
rangerj
Active Member
Jim,
As long as you are sure that you have good connections and good wire harnesses, then the valve body is indicated as the faulty item.
The ohms resistance, at 5.8 ohms is within the acceptable limits given, but is at the upper limit. It could be working, or not, intermittently. Have you test driven the vehicle and checked for any new or other codes? Does the code 25 keep coming back?
If you have done everything in the pre-test check list, and the tests specified for the code 25, and your test indicate good connections and good harnesses, then the valve body replacement would be the logical conclusion.
rangerj
As long as you are sure that you have good connections and good wire harnesses, then the valve body is indicated as the faulty item.
The ohms resistance, at 5.8 ohms is within the acceptable limits given, but is at the upper limit. It could be working, or not, intermittently. Have you test driven the vehicle and checked for any new or other codes? Does the code 25 keep coming back?
If you have done everything in the pre-test check list, and the tests specified for the code 25, and your test indicate good connections and good harnesses, then the valve body replacement would be the logical conclusion.
rangerj
rangerj
Active Member
Jim,
The ABS is not "SHO specific". It is the same unit for all the Taurus/Sable vehicles. What I do not know is if there are any differences in the model years do to engineering upgrades or changes. A dealership parts department should be able to tell you what model years will fit your year.
All that having been said, I would post a "parts wanted" ad on the forum to see if someone has one from a parts car they are willing to sell for a reasonable amount.
You could also check with a dealership parts department to see if "factory rebuilt units" are available. These are usually quit a bit cheaper than new units, if such a thing is available for these ABS units?
Keep in mind that while your ABS is not working you still have normal non-ABS brakes. So, the car is drivable and safe.
If you have any doubts about the diagnosis you can have a dealership attach a "Star Tester" and confirm (or negate) the diagnostics. The diagnostic fee should be no more than $100. They should tell you what this will be "up front".
After replacing the hydrolic control unit the system has to be bled. If you cannot get all the air out you will have to have a dealership, or service garage that has the electronic equipment, do it as the valves have to be electronically set in the open position for bleeding.
Please let us know how this all turns out. rangerj
The ABS is not "SHO specific". It is the same unit for all the Taurus/Sable vehicles. What I do not know is if there are any differences in the model years do to engineering upgrades or changes. A dealership parts department should be able to tell you what model years will fit your year.
All that having been said, I would post a "parts wanted" ad on the forum to see if someone has one from a parts car they are willing to sell for a reasonable amount.
You could also check with a dealership parts department to see if "factory rebuilt units" are available. These are usually quit a bit cheaper than new units, if such a thing is available for these ABS units?
Keep in mind that while your ABS is not working you still have normal non-ABS brakes. So, the car is drivable and safe.
If you have any doubts about the diagnosis you can have a dealership attach a "Star Tester" and confirm (or negate) the diagnostics. The diagnostic fee should be no more than $100. They should tell you what this will be "up front".
After replacing the hydrolic control unit the system has to be bled. If you cannot get all the air out you will have to have a dealership, or service garage that has the electronic equipment, do it as the valves have to be electronically set in the open position for bleeding.
Please let us know how this all turns out. rangerj
Can the valve body be repaired? I have a code 25 on my 93 SHO and have concluded that the RF outlet valve is faulty. I have the valve body off the car (was going to replace it with a 94 model, but the wiring is different) and don't have a replacement. Was wondering if I could possibly fix it myself?jjj4703 said:
Thank you
rangerj
Active Member
The ABS system has very few items that can be repaired by a mechanic, such as the pump,relay, contrrol unit, or sensors. The valve body takes some very special tools to work on and it is not recommended. I would be the last person to discourage anyone from trying to do it themselves, so have at it. If you find and fix the problem I would love to hear about it.
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