A/C issue

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ShoATX

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So i buy this super clean 94 SHO yesterday and checked the A/C an it didnt work so i went to charge it but it's full so i left it at that yesterday ...... TODAY its like :sun: 115 degrees in Chicago an my girl is driving my :wave: Charger so i go online an SEARCH an came up with the paperclip test with no results other then nothings happening .... Continue the search an found "check A/C clutch" well its too hot since the car was running then i came across a post saying "bang on clutch" it might work an if it does ill need a new clutch BUT b4 i do i noticed 1 of wires going to compressor already broken/chaff'd so my question is "Is this common?" or should i assume it was broken purposely becuase clutch was making noise ?
 

kevinspann

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Step 1 Fix that wire
Step 2 Turn it on and see if the clutch engages
Step 3 - If it doesn't, or cycles a lot while not really getting cold, check the charge. If the charge is low, top it off and see how it works. If it's not you may need to de-shim or replace the compressor clutch.
 

ShoATX

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- I fixed wire and it didnt kick on
- I jumped pressure sensor and still nothing
- I jumped compressor and it kicked on/engages
- I tried to put freon from AUTOZONE w/gauge an it was in the red car wouldnt accept any

So i'm thinking of first having the a/c system flushed out cause maybe theres just air no freon who knows when it worked last . IDK any other suggestions or just take to TRAINED mechanic ?
 

rubydist

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One of my many SHOs would not engage the a/c compressor due to bad wiring between the ccrm and the a/c clutch. several had bad ccrm where the relay would not engage.

I would start by checking to see if there is voltage in the correct (output) pins of the ccrm. if so, then the wiring to the a/c clutch is suspect. if not, check to see if there is voltage in the correct (input) pins of the ccrm. if so, then the ccrm is suspect. if not, then you have more complex issues.

I would not bother with flushing the system until you get it to actually engage, then see if it cools properly.
 

kevinspann

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Did it cool when the compressor was jumped to run?

I'm not sure, but isnt there a high pressure shut off switch too?
 

rubydist

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on the 94+ (w/ R134a) there is a high pressure cutout switch too.
 

kevinspann

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I just wonder if someone has repeatedly tried to charge it, thinking it was empty.
 

JRA2000TL

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Maybe if it's overfilled, just empty it out like a tire until you get the normal psi. Yes, the 134a Gen 2s have both a high and low pressure cut out switch. The high pressure switch is on the high side line just behind the passenger headlight (between there and the battery); round-type plug.
 

kevinspann

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Yeah, I wouldn't do it that way. R134a can potentially cause frostbite, or irritation at the very least. You DEFINITELY don't want to it spray you in the face/eyes.

Either but an inexpensive manifold gauge set, or have a shop check the Pressures in the system, on both the high and low sides.
 

rubydist

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the odds of it being overfilled to the point of over-pressurization when you first turn it on are about 1,000,000:1. the cans of refrigerant simply do not have enough pressure in them to over-pressurize the system when trying to fill. you can safely disregard that concern at this point.
 

shotime1994

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If doesn't matter if there is refridegerant or not when you jump the low side switch. If the clutch doesn't cycle when you jump it there is a problem with the compressor. Reshim the compressor and you should be good to go.
 

JRA2000TL

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Yeah, I wouldn't do it that way. R134a can potentially cause frostbite, or irritation at the very least. You DEFINITELY don't want to it spray you in the face/eyes.

Either but an inexpensive manifold gauge set, or have a shop check the Pressures in the system, on both the high and low sides.

Uh, well I forgot to mention it might be a good idea to wear gloves and safety glasses when you do this. Then just take it to a shop AFTER you manually empty the system and do the repairs. They can perform a vacuum, check for leaks, and re-charge when you're done. That way you won't waste refrigerant if you have a leak after doing your work. I did it like this and it worked well. They found a couple of other o-rings that needed replacing too. Plus, it beats the **** out of trying to wait around all day or schedule 2 shop appointments (1 to empty the system, 1 to evac/recharge when the work is done). You can empty it yourself, just be careful. Unless your neighbors are tree hugger Nazis, you shouldn't have a problem. We dump plenty of other shit in the air that's alot worse.

BTW, I had one of those store re-charge kits I was using until I got my a/c fixed, the cap/nozzle thing broke and I got neon green dyed refrigerant all over my hands. Yeah it was cold and hurt like ****, but I'm alive and still have all my fingers. Not the safest way to do it though.
 
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rubydist

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are your fingers still dyed green? do you look like a bank robber now?

;)
 

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