A/C Compressor Removal?

[PBCrunch]

I just got a 1994 Ford Taurus SHO MTX for free. The car has some issues though.

The car has a blown out passenger front tire. For the time being I think I can get the car mobile again for the least amount of cost by buying a wheel and tire from the junkyard. The car has no spare tire. Will regular Taurus/Sable fourteen or fifteen inch wheels clear the front brakes on an SHO? What about the rear brakes?

The showstopper is the fact that the air conditioning compressor clutch is stuck. If the A/C ran on its own belt like it does in my Dodge this would be no problem. As most of you know the A/C compressor and the alternator run on the same belt on the SHO V-6. Could someone describe the procedure to remove the A/C compressor clutch or the entire A/C compressor? Does it need to come out through the wheel well or through the bottom?

The car has some front and rear end damage also. Does the trunklid need to come from a 1992+ Taurus donor car or will any Taurus/Sable trunk lid fit?

It seems that the engine runs fine, the clutch is new, and the ABS and airbag lights don't indicate any problems.

 

[TYSHO]

You take it out through the top! Remove the alternator, then unbolt all 4 bolts holding the compressor in place along with the electrical connector. That's what I can remember, there might be other little minor things.

MTX = Manual transaxle ATX = Automatic transaxle

Gen 1 = '89-'91
Gen 2 = '92-'95
Gen 3 = '96-'99

Good Luck and Welcome!

 

[Puckpimp71]

As far as the wheels go, I'm 99% sure Ford used the same brakes on the SHO as the base model Taurus. 15's will fit as that's what the 89 SHO's had. I'm not sure baout 14's though.

I just removed my clutch and compressor this weekend. It's pretty straight forward, but time consuming. I took off the front passenger side wheel and wheel well cover for a little better access, but looking back, I don't think it's absolutely necessary. Anyways, this is to get the compressor out with the clutch:
Take out the radiator overflow bottle (there are only two bolts)
Loosen the belt tensioner pulley with a 14mm wrench and loosen the tension with a 5mm hex key
remove the three bolts on the alternator and disconnect the wires (you'll need a 8 or 10mm ratchet for one of them)
Remove battery and battery tray
There are 4 bolts that hold the hoses onto the compressor and I'm pretty sure they're each 10mm, but they all face the front of the car and are torqued to all **** (make sure your system is totally discharged now)
Once the hoses are off, there are four 14mm (I think) that hold the compressor onto the engine and all face the front of the car. When those are removed the compressor can come out.
Make sure you've got a good set lock ring pliers if you need to take the clutch off the compressor. That took me almost as long as getting the compressor off.
Here's a great link that was a huge help to me:
http://www.utahfordclub.com/rac.htm

 

[91taurisho]

Puckpimp71:
As far as the wheels go, I'm 99% sure Ford used the same brakes on the SHO as the base model Taurus. 15's will fit as that's what the 89 SHO's had. I'm not sure baout 14's though.

In 94 the SHO front brakes were upgraded to something like 10.9 inches or something shrug . Earlier SHO brakes had 10.1 I think The regular Taurus did not have the bigger brakes. I think they had the 10.1 too, not possitive about that though... Just to be safe put the 15" on the rear but you really shoud get that replaced as fast as you can.

 

[rangerj]

PBCRUNCH,

Why remove the entire A/C compressor? If the clutch face is stuck it can be removed leaving the pulley to rotate freely.

If the pulley bearing is siezed, that is another story. If the compressor is siezed, then removing it is a good idea, but as long as the pulley is free you can unplug the clutch coil, remove the face of the clutch and let the pulley act as an idler pulley. rangerj

 

[PBCrunch]

The compressor/clutch assembly is completely destroyed. The previous owner attempted to rectify the stuck clutch with a cheater bar. It sounds like it isn't as hard as I thought to get the A/C compressor out.

 

[DHMag]

on a nice Fall day in Rocksprings, TX... texantony, SHOMurph, and i commenced to remove my battery, battery tray,alternator, and A/C compressor. then we removed the clutch and pulley from the compressor, reinstalled everything along with a bypass belt (thank goodness for spare parts in the trunk !). all in the matter of an hour.

reason for doing this on a nice day in a place far far from home ? A/C doesnt like sustained engine speeds of 6K RPMs in 4th gear. a 30 minute drive under these circumstances produced a fire. destroyed the belt, clutch and seized the pulley. i still dont know if the compressor is any good.

<small>[ December 17, 2003, 08:56 AM: Message edited by: DHMag ]</small>

 

[PBCrunch]

So can the A/C compressor be removed entirely or will I have to remove the clutch and pulley and reinstall it?

I want to get the car running and driving as cheaply as possible. Once it is running I will decide whether or not I really want to fix the car up nice.

Will 205/55R16 tires fit on 1994 SHO rims? I have a set of Kumho Ecstas in 205/55 for my Acura RSX that I am trying to sell.

Will I need to buy a 1992+ trunk lid or can I use a trunk lid off of an earlier Taurus?

 

[munkee]

The first gen trunklids are different. You will have to get a 92 or newer trunk lid. We put 14's off of my old gl on the rear of my friends 92 for a few days until his new tires came in. He didn't have any problems with it.

 

[Puckpimp71]

Compressor can be removed with clutch and pulley entirely

 

[SnickterP]

I need to remove the A/C compressor entirely from my car and leave it out. I'll need some sort of special bracket for my alternator now wont i? it doesnt even work and i dont really need it, so i figure i may as well save on the weight of it.

 

[DHMag]

SnickterP:
I need to remove the A/C compressor entirely from my car and leave it out. I'll need some sort of special bracket for my alternator now wont i? it doesnt even work and i dont really need it, so i figure i may as well save on the weight of it.

grade 8 bolts(or stainless) and 3/8" pipe cut to length should suffice.

 

[SnickterP]

DHMag:
grade 8 bolts(or stainless) and 3/8" pipe cut to length should suffice.

Thanks man. Would you happen to know what drivebelt might also fit as best replacement for the shorter length?

 

[DHMag]

for an MTX, i believe the preferred length is 42"