A/C Compressor Interchangability ?'s

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Racer X

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First, go HERE for the backstory.

Now, I know the SHO used the 10P15F compressor, however, I'm finding that the 10P15C (used in Porsche's and Toyota's) is extremely similar in dimension. In fact, the only difference I'm seeing so far is the pulley/ hub. Does anyone know if there are any minute internal differences between the two, ie. is one meant to spin faster than the other or whatever might have you. If this is the case, I might be back in business since I have a line on a NIB hub/clutch for dirt cheap, and 10P15C's are less costly and a bit more available. :)

If not, how hard is it to rebuild an A/C compressor? I have another one (10P15F) that spins, but it feels like there's a rough spot in the rotation.
 

jelloslug

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Racer X said:
If not, how hard is it to rebuild an A/C compressor? I have another one (10P15F) that spins, but it feels like there's a rough spot in the rotation.

Chances are the "rough spot" you are feeling is just in the pulley bearing. If you have a new clutch and pulley that would fix that problems because the pulley includes the bearing. Changing the pulley and clutch is easy. I did it with the compressor mounted in the car without any problems about 2 weeks ago.
 

rangerj

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The amount of "rotational" torque for the 10P-15F is 84 inch pounds (7 foot pounds). Note this is not the starting torque but rather rotational torque. If the torque is that amount or less the compressor is OK. If the rotating torque required is greater than that the compressor should be replaced.

The recommended compressor is the 10P-15F. You may be able to get a 10P-15C to work but I would be concerned about the pullies lining up and the manifold connections. I'm not sure that the dimensions of the two compressores are the same, even if the mounting holes and tabs are the same. Will the 10P-15F clutch and pully assembly mount to a 10P-15C, and if it will do the pullies line up? Lastly, the 10P-15F is made for high RPMs, is the 10P-15C?
 

Racer X

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rangerj said:
The amount of "rotational" torque for the 10P-15F is 84 inch pounds (7 foot pounds). Note this is not the starting torque but rather rotational torque. If the torque is that amount or less the compressor is OK. If the rotating torque required is greater than that the compressor should be replaced.

The recommended compressor is the 10P-15F. You may be able to get a 10P-15C to work but I would be concerned about the pullies lining up and the manifold connections. I'm not sure that the dimensions of the two compressores are the same, even if the mounting holes and tabs are the same. Will the 10P-15F clutch and pully assembly mount to a 10P-15C, and if it will do the pullies line up? Lastly, the 10P-15F is made for high RPMs, is the 10P-15C?
By some accounts, the 10P15F pullies and coil will mount up to a 15C, but I'm not sure, ergo this thread.

Additionally, the rough spot isn't in the pulley's rotation, but in the compressor's rotation. It's not a glaring "you have to gorilla it to get it past the rough spot", but I can feel it which is why I asked.
 

DHMag

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the ONLY compressor for a SHO is the 10P15F. all other Nippondenso 10P15(x) series compressors are identical internally. and all clutch coil assemblies are the same between the "F" and the other 10P15(x) compressors.

as far as using a 10P15C, you would need custom manifold lines. the 10P15F manifold is on the "front" and the 10P15C is on the "top" of the compressor. i have a few links that sell a variety of custom manifold ports. ill look them up later if youd be interested.
 

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