A/C Coil Circuit

[Marccus]

I tried to measure the resistance across the A/C coil and discovered the circuit is open - infinite resistance.

What are my options now and where (Rock Auto, etc.) can I look?

Does anyone know the part number - then I can go to Green Sales.

Thanks,

 

[Marccus]

Sorry - '89 SHO

 

[SHOZ123]

Did you measure this at the coil connector?

 

[Marccus]

Yes.

I had a spare connector and measured the pigtail ends. There is no way I can get the voltmeter probes on the actual coil tabs.

 

[naval-avi8or]

Autozone
http://www.autozone.com/N,15200084//shopping/partTypeResultSet.htm

 

[Marccus]

OK. The following selections at Autozone are:

A/C Clutch

A/C Clutch Bearing

A/C Clutch Cycling Switch

A/C Clutch Hub

Please confirm, I woulld choose "A/C clutch" part to replace the coil.


AUTOZONE:
*********************************************************
Compressor Works / A/C Clutch for a 1989 Ford Taurus SHO

Part Number: 667853
Weight: 6.28 lbs.
Warranty: 3 MO
Application: With factory installed A/C

Note: New
Pricing: $79.99
******************************************************
I assume I have to remove the compressor to intall this part.

For installation are there any necessary other factors to consider - shim, gap, etc.

I just intalled a new suction line with accumulator. Shop manual says anytime you open up the compressor (exposed to ambient air), the accumulator needs to be replaced.

It took me Sooooo long to finally get the right suction line with accumulator and Sooooooooo long to install the whole assembly that I want to avoid installing the new accumulator again.

I believe the suction line cannot be separated fromm the accumulator. You can't just buy the accumulator.

I'm thinking that once I disconnect the accumulator from the compressor and pressure is relieved, that I immediately cover the open fitting with thick plastic and tape it to the line or

Perhaps, I can find a plug (rubber, urethane) to fit this fitting and stuff it in immediatelhy.

What do you think?

I'm sure Ford specifices replacing the accumulator, because the drying element inside will get saturated with the water vapor in the air and then can't absorb anything (oil mist?, water vapor? ) in the refrigerant.

How critical do you think this is?

Has anyone just ignored this replacement when they've opened up the compressor and still had normal operation?


Thank you very much for your help.

 

[naval-avi8or]

You do not need to remove the AC compressor to replace it. YOu may be able to unbolt the compressor and twist it around with out breaking the lines open to help with access but its not required.

Yes you will need to gap the new hub and it should come with new shims (but don't toss the old ones).

As far as the link I posted you will need to order/purchase the correct one based on the compressor in your car. Look for the one that matches the hub currently in your car.

As stated you can get the hub and snap ring out without breaking the lines. But opening the system will not require a acc/dryer change if you cap off the lines correctly. Even a new one is not closed to the atmosphere.

 

[Marccus]

Sorry for the late reply as I was out of town. Thanks for the advice and I will proceed based on all the information provided. Your help has really been a godsend as I have been struggling with this problem for a long time.

:wave: