60psi at the rail? Double check that, as that reading is way out of spec. Maybe your FPR is dying. According to my docs, you should see 30-45 with the engine off, 28-33 with it on.
95 Stops Running When it is Very Hot outside
- Thread starter dmltml
- Start date
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129 = insufficient mafs change during dynamic test
167 = insufficient tps change during dynamic test
225 = knock sensor not detected during dynamic test
536 = boo circuit failure
521 = psps circuit did not change states
632 = (not on my list of codes)
from that I conclude operator error during the koer test.
167 = insufficient tps change during dynamic test
225 = knock sensor not detected during dynamic test
536 = boo circuit failure
521 = psps circuit did not change states
632 = (not on my list of codes)
from that I conclude operator error during the koer test.
dmltml
Member
Rubydist. I think you are correct, when doing the I did not hit the overdrive button, it is broken, I also did no turn the wheel right, left, and hit the brake. Will try again but the overdrive button is an issue.
Update. I drove 430 miles today, through the mountains in west virginia (hard) etc. Ran flawlessly, temperature gage performed as expected. And yes, she died 6 miles short of my destination. It was 92 degrees outside when she dies. I pulled off for 10 min. Checked for fuel, my gauge broke (center pin fell out) so I grabbed a screw driver and hit the schrader valve. Shot gas to the top of the hood, plenty of gas and pressure. (still may have too much pressure and will test tomorrow and replace the fuel pressure regulator.)
I cooled the relay control module using an ice pack, restarted but would not stay running.
Disconnected the MAS sensor, restarted but would not stay running.
I disconnected and reconnected the DPFE and Throttle Position Sensor. The car started and ran well all the way home.
So I just redid the codes (no overdrive button)
KOEO
522 O Park/Neutral Position (PNP) or Clutch Pedal Position (CPP) circuit fault
551 Problem in Intake Manifold Runner Control (IMRC) solenoid/circuit
Stored Codes
157 R, M Mass Air Flow signal is/was low or grounded
173 R, M Oxygen sensor not switching - system is/was rich - Single, Right or Rear HO2S
177 M Oxygen sensor not switching - system was rich Left or Front HO2S
KOER
129 R No MAP or Mass Air Flow sensor change during "goose" test
167 R No Throttle Position sensor change in "goose" test (must get at least 25% rotation)
225 R Knock sensor not tested (ignore if not pinging)
632 R E4OD - Transmission Control Switch (TCS) should be cycled once between engine ID and Goose test
Update. I drove 430 miles today, through the mountains in west virginia (hard) etc. Ran flawlessly, temperature gage performed as expected. And yes, she died 6 miles short of my destination. It was 92 degrees outside when she dies. I pulled off for 10 min. Checked for fuel, my gauge broke (center pin fell out) so I grabbed a screw driver and hit the schrader valve. Shot gas to the top of the hood, plenty of gas and pressure. (still may have too much pressure and will test tomorrow and replace the fuel pressure regulator.)
I cooled the relay control module using an ice pack, restarted but would not stay running.
Disconnected the MAS sensor, restarted but would not stay running.
I disconnected and reconnected the DPFE and Throttle Position Sensor. The car started and ran well all the way home.
So I just redid the codes (no overdrive button)
KOEO
522 O Park/Neutral Position (PNP) or Clutch Pedal Position (CPP) circuit fault
551 Problem in Intake Manifold Runner Control (IMRC) solenoid/circuit
Stored Codes
157 R, M Mass Air Flow signal is/was low or grounded
173 R, M Oxygen sensor not switching - system is/was rich - Single, Right or Rear HO2S
177 M Oxygen sensor not switching - system was rich Left or Front HO2S
KOER
129 R No MAP or Mass Air Flow sensor change during "goose" test
167 R No Throttle Position sensor change in "goose" test (must get at least 25% rotation)
225 R Knock sensor not tested (ignore if not pinging)
632 R E4OD - Transmission Control Switch (TCS) should be cycled once between engine ID and Goose test
dmltml
Member
I will replace the Sensor this weekend although I am not confident that this is the issue. The RPM gauge does not rapidly drop to zero when the car stalls. I did a lower 60 a while back and the water pump and sensors etc were all replaced.
This thing fails when the ambient temp is above 92 Degs or so after the car has run for a couple of hours. The engine can be hot for 5 hours and it will run great as long as the ambient temp is below 92 ish. When the ambient air gets high, it fails. I am surprised we are not talking about the Intake air sensor or the MAS to be honest. Here is another fun fact, the bottom of my air box has been cut out so I am pulling more air from the engine than from outside. (dont ask). How would this impact anything. I am thinking about running a hair dryer in the intake and see if she dies. LOL
This thing fails when the ambient temp is above 92 Degs or so after the car has run for a couple of hours. The engine can be hot for 5 hours and it will run great as long as the ambient temp is below 92 ish. When the ambient air gets high, it fails. I am surprised we are not talking about the Intake air sensor or the MAS to be honest. Here is another fun fact, the bottom of my air box has been cut out so I am pulling more air from the engine than from outside. (dont ask). How would this impact anything. I am thinking about running a hair dryer in the intake and see if she dies. LOL
well, I do know that these engines do not run right with a bad intake air temp sensor, but I have yet to see one that would just die from that (but its certainly possible). that and the mafs are not particularly expensive, and I have each in my for-sale thread, so if that would help you let me know. I would hope that either the mafs, iat, or tps being bad/sick would set a code, but you are not seeing that, which is why I suggested the crank sensor next - I have only seen codes for bad crank sensors about half of the time.
dmltml
Member
Update: So tonight I noticed there is a piece of sheet metal on the passenger side front wheel well was bent, like someone jacked up the car on this piece of sheet metal. Guess what is under this piece of sheet metal? Yes three plastic gas lines. The larger return line is crushed nearly flat. So I suspect as I drove for a couple of hours on the highway, a fair amount of very hot gas tried to travel through this crushed line. Does this make sense to you guys? Any suggestions on how to repair these lines? Does anyone know what the two different sizes are?
luigisho
SHO Member
This does make sense. I was going to suggest a bad fuel pump/ sender check valve but a damaged return line might do it. I would look for someone parting out a car and see if you can pick up whatever lines you need. There are parts cars listed in the classifieds and several folks here that sell used parts. Including rubydist above
I hope the fuel line issue bears fruit. If not,
I recommend a couple of simple spark/fuel tests to narrow it down. After it has stopped running, turn the ignition to off, and then turn the key to on, but not so far as to engage the starter. Listen carefully with the door open or window down. Do you hear the fuel pump prime; the pump should run for a few seconds and then stop. If it's doing that, the pump is probably working. Next, have somebody crank the starter while you check any of the front 3 spark plug wires for spark with an inductive spark tester. That will tell you whether the issue is spark of fuel.
I recommend a couple of simple spark/fuel tests to narrow it down. After it has stopped running, turn the ignition to off, and then turn the key to on, but not so far as to engage the starter. Listen carefully with the door open or window down. Do you hear the fuel pump prime; the pump should run for a few seconds and then stop. If it's doing that, the pump is probably working. Next, have somebody crank the starter while you check any of the front 3 spark plug wires for spark with an inductive spark tester. That will tell you whether the issue is spark of fuel.
dmltml
Member
Well, it is the first week of summer like temps here in Charlotte and guess what, car stalls when the engine gets hot. Not excessively hot I am talking about driving 25 min then getting stuck in traffic or stopping for pizza and the heat sets in. Here is what I know, I am loosing fuel pressure at the rail. When it fails, I basically have no pressure. I have a new fuel pump, new gas tank, new fuel pressure regulator, (not on the return side), After it cools, when I turn the Key half way, I get 38 psi and it drops to less than 20 quickly. I hear a couple of click on the electronic box near the top of the upper radiator hose, the fist click it get to 38 then after the 2nd click it drops to 20 or less. It does not substain at 38, just quickly rises to 38 and just as quickly drops to 20. Thoughts? I can drive it for hours if it is cool out. It seems if I keep the RPM high the pressure does not drop too low. Help
dmltml
Member
What in the cars electronics tells the fuel pump to stop running? I feel like some electronic part is getting overheated and tells the pump to stop running. If the fuel regulator on the return side gets stuck open, i assume i would loose pressure on the rail. ?
Off Road SHO
Moderator
A timer tells it to stop running after a certain amount of time if there are no revolutions. You need to find a way to monitor the fuel pressure at the rail's shrader valve so you can see exactly what is happening, and when. A cheapie clip-on (not push on) tire pressure gauge works great for this, just hard to find.
Tom
dmltml
Member
I plan on setting up a real time fuel gage. I know after it dies, the pressure is below 20, i csn predict when it will restart based on the gage pressure. Loosing fuel pressure for sure.
dmltml
Member
dmltml
Member
So after breaking down on a regular basis now that it is warm weather in NC, I think i found the issue. A bad airtech fuel pump. I had a 1/4 tank of gas on thursday, drove 25 min and then hit terrible traffic. And died. Hot wired the fuel pump and it sounded a bit sick. Added 2 gallons of gas and drove home. Left the car running in the garage with the fuel gauge on the rail and watched the pressure drop and the car stall. Would not restart so i put a gallon of nice cold gas in the car and after priming the system, she started right up. Replacing the pump later in the week.
DeepPower
Searchng4Truth
The SHO will stop running and refuse to start if it is overheated, it will crank like it's not getting gasoline. I know this from personal experience. While the temp gauge may be at the "M", each temp gauge is different. On my temp gauge, M means 205°F "too hot", and R means overheated.
I suggest you get yourself a laser temp gauge like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00837ZGRY/
Next time the car stops running, pop the hood and point the laser, first at the thermostat housing, second at the metal tube that feeds into the upper radiator hose. If it is showing 200°F or more, that's your problem.
What temperature thermostat are you using? I run my SHO in Texas and I only use the Motorcraft 180°F thermostat, and my engine still sees 190+ at the thermostat housing. Don't even think about using the 195°F thermostat in the southern heat. Short term solution, put a bottle of Water Wetter in the radiator. But I strongly reccomend a radiator flush, a bottle of Water Wetter, and a 180°F Motorcraft thermostat, stat!
Take this seriously. As Vadim the Great has told us many times, the SHO engine responds very badly to overheating and damage can occur quickly. An overheated SHO gets great gas mileage but will quickly and inevitably result in a blown head gasket. Feel my pain.
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