'95 Clutch Replacement + struts/springs progress. Open to suggestions!

[K-Dawg]

http://www.shoforum.com/showpost.php?p=867373&postcount=14

 

[jbserra]

http://www.shoforum.com/showpost.php?p=867373&postcount=14

Great! Looks like a yes. Do I need to order the recall kits for a '95? I'm not sure if I have them or not...

 

[K-Dawg]

If you don't have them already, you'll definitely want to have them.

 

[itwonder]

Great! Looks like a yes. Do I need to order the recall kits for a '95? I'm not sure if I have them or not...

Lift the passenger side carpet and pad an see if there is a rubber plug on the slanted part of the floor. That's the telltale for the recall kit being installed. If it's there, the only thing you'll need for the rear are new bolts...because they are cheap and new is new. For the front, get a recall kit because it will give you two new bolts and new plate nuts. You may not need the new nuts, but you do want to have them on hand just in case.

 

[jbserra]

Ok, I have the recall kit installed on my car.

Ordered up:
front struts, strut mounts, tension bar bushings, Gen III subframe bushings/bolts + 1 recall kit

...back to thinking about the clutch now since I should have the transaxle out in 1-2 days...

Will the Clutchmaster TOB be better then stock, or is the ceramic TOB from SHO Nut the only way to go?

 

[jayro]

Ok, I have the recall kit installed on my car.

Ordered up:
front struts, strut mounts, tension bar bushings, Gen III subframe bushings/bolts + 1 recall kit

...back to thinking about the clutch now since I should have the transaxle out in 1-2 days...

Will the Clutchmaster TOB be better then stock, or is the ceramic TOB from SHO Nut the only way to go?

I would go with the ceramic one. I believe it has something to do with high rpm shifts that causes the others to fail. I am running a CM 1 clutch in my car and have had no problems so far (about 5k miles). I DEFINATLY don't baby it and have a few autocross events on it (although these aren't that ******* clutches). If you are going to have the trans out, you may want to look at renforcing the differential. The MTX rebuild video at SHOnut is great. I had a machine shop do the welding. Makes it more time consuming, but could be worth it. Have fun!

Jeremy

 

[haydenkayne]

while you got everything out i would think about a high flow y pipe, seeing how you have that disconnected anyway

 

[jbserra]

while you got everything out i would think about a high flow y pipe, seeing how you have that disconnected anyway

I like your thinking! I'll see if I can add that to my list.

Engine is supported finally, and all mount nuts/bolts have been removed. Tonight I get to see if my engine stays put as I remove the subframe bolts. I sprayed those down last night and hope they come out easily.

Ordered my ceramic TOB.

Thanks all for following along during the project!

 

[Gez89SHO]

Hey there, I found this thread late, glad the how-to is helping. Here's what I can add:
As you can see in the how-to, I put in a stock clutch with a Fidanza flywheel. Stock TOB with sleeve. As mentioned, the pins as installed made the pressure plate sit too high. I ground them down with a Dremel until there was no gap in between.
So far I've put about 8000 miles on it. I've driven in NYC in the middle of summer, loaded with people and in stop-n-go traffic. There were also highway jaunts to Carlisle and Atlantic City. It gets daily duty so it gets driven rain/snow or shine. It gets driven hard occasionally, too. No problems so far.
Stuff to change- you may want to change the washers/bushings for the clutch fork. I didn't and now the pedal squeaks. It's more annoying than anything, and may be unrelated to that.
Oil seals, for rear main definitely, for oil pan recommended. Rod bearings while the oil pan is out- I didn't do them now but now is a good opportunity.
If any part of the suspension- control arms, strut rod bushings, sway bar bushings, sway bar links- look iffy, now is a good time to swap them. Easy to do while the subframe is on the ground.
Springs and struts-subframe is not really in the way, can do later, can do now.
Steering rack/lines, yes they' re more accessible so if you want to do them now is a good idea- but they can be pricey and the steering pump is still way in there.
Y-pipe, yes since it's out already, you can upgrade. You may lose a bit of low-end torque with this. I lost some with the flywheel so I left the stock one in. Put anti-seize on all bolts.
Have you managed to get the axles off BTW?

 

[Racer X]

Clutch: Southbend Clutch Rally Series (Stage 1)
FW: Fidanza, with attention paid to the pins. Don't insert them in the wrong holes!!
Struts: Monroe SensaTrac. KYB+Eibach=Epic Fail. Ask me how I know.

All the other recommendations are spot on.

 

[jbserra]

....
Have you managed to get the axles off BTW?

Yes. It took a hardwood, and a bigger hammer, but it was effective

Thanks for the info!

 

[jbserra]

Clutch: Southbend Clutch Rally Series (Stage 1)
FW: Fidanza, with attention paid to the pins. Don't insert them in the wrong holes!!
Struts: Monroe SensaTrac. KYB+Eibach=Epic Fail. Ask me how I know.

All the other recommendations are spot on.

I ended up with the OEM struts. It sounded like those would offer a good ride combined with the new springs. I think the stock ride is pretty good. Lowering it and stiffing it a bit with the springs will probably be a good fit for my driving.

I am glad I didn't get the KYBs

 

[turbo79]

SHOSource has the subframe connectors. They connect to the unibody right behind the subframe and run back to the bracket where the rear strut rods connect to the body (I don't know the technical name for these areas). There are pics on their site of the product, but not of them installed. If you do a search in the forum I'm sure there are pics of these guys installed. They are a weld in part, but if you know how to weld, no worries. Otherwise, take them to a muffler shop and have them welded in while the car sits level (many different opinions on this one, so go with whatever you're comfortable with). Hope this helps.

Chris

Well Chris, although I peeped under your white SHO and looked at the sub-frame connectors when I was picking up those front end parts the other day, what I didn't check or ask about is how do you remove the sub-frame after the connectors are welded in place? Like for a clutch replacement, or to install Gen III sub-frame bushings, etc.

 

[pitaSHO]

Sorry for the thread hijack...

The subframe connectors do not interfere with the subframe. They end before they reach the subframe.

 

[jbserra]

Ok! Sub frame is on the ground. I had 1 bolt that came out, 1 that spun, 1 that broke, and one that was stuck (on the verge of spinning or breaking). Broke is ok (thank you itwonder for suggesting the extra kit!), the spinner somehow stopped long enough to back the bolt out, the one came out perfectly, and then the last one (of course) was a nightmare. I sprayed it down, and did the other bolts. Came back to it and gave it a good torque and turned it into a spinner. I couldn't wedge anything to save my life into that little opening to stop the spinning nut, so I finally pulled out the cutter. Cut the bolt, and down came the frame. The remainder of the bolt is still in there, and it's going to take one precise position to get that thing out of the subframe, or I may cut it again.

Engine didn't budge. Just floating in the air (yaaaaah). I think I found my vibration problem with one of my front wheel bearings.

Is it recommended to replace both sides if I need to do one?

Thanks!!!

 

[newby92]

i had the same problem with the subframe bolts on my old 92. specifically the fronts. in order to get to them i had to use a digrinder and open the small whole on the side of the unibody up to get a wrench in to hold the nut plate. i replaced them with very large grade 8 nuts and bolts. i only had to do this on the passanger side as the driver side already has a whole large enough to get a wrench in. to answer your question i wouldnt worry about replacing both wheel bearings at one time, as they are a pain to swap but easy to get to even with the car fully assembled. good luck with all of your repairs and upgrades. i have already done all of this so i know what you are going through.

 

[jbserra]

i had the same problem with the subframe bolts on my old 92. specifically the fronts. in order to get to them i had to use a digrinder and open the small whole on the side of the unibody up to get a wrench in to hold the nut plate. i replaced them with very large grade 8 nuts and bolts. i only had to do this on the passanger side as the driver side already has a whole large enough to get a wrench in. to answer your question i wouldnt worry about replacing both wheel bearings at one time, as they are a pain to swap but easy to get to even with the car fully assembled. good luck with all of your repairs and upgrades. i have already done all of this so i know what you are going through.

Hey newby92! It looks like you have the Fidanza/CM Stage I combo. Working out for you?

 

[newby92]

it works very well, i made sure i ground down the pins so the clutch fit flush with the flywheel but other than that they are a perfect bolt on part that doesnt require any special modifications. the clutch feel is stock but the rivets on the straps are much stronger. ive got almost 25,000 miles on mine and it still feels like the day i put it in.

 

[jbserra]

I had a productive day today. I took the airbox out, detached all cables/wires to the transaxle, got all the bolts out, put my motorcycle jack under the transaxle, pulled it out, and lowered it with the jack. Worked pretty good.

Clutch and flywheel are off, and my seals don't look so hot. I guess I will be replacing those. Picked up some Engine Bright and drained the oil/removed the oil filter. I'll pick up my seals/gaskets from Napa on Monday, clean the area, and drop the oil pan.

With the passenger side axle out now, the support bearing makes noise. It's smooth, but it makes bearing noises. Is that grounds for replacement? Do I have to replace the whole axle?

Thanks again for those playing along at home! I really appreciate the help.

 

[jbserra]

Oil pan and carrier removed. I think I have dug as far as I'm going to dig! Waiting for some replacement parts.

Question:
Should I replace a noisy support bearing on the passenger axle or does noisy not = dying?