K-Dawg
SHO Member
I've had them make noise because some grit got in the seal. As long as there is no play, you are probably alright if you just shoot some grease inside the bearing.
'95 Clutch Replacement + struts/springs progress. Open to suggestions!
- Thread starter jbserra
- Start date
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haydenkayne
New Member
if youre already got mostly everything apart maynot be a bad idea to replace those bearings axles are only 100 and wheel bearings about 50, 70 with the knuckle. after doing all these repairs, youd really hate to have to rip apart the front end again for something silly that you questioned earlier
jbserra
SHO Member
Oil pan reinstalled, rear main seal and carrier gasket replaced.
Man, I hope the RTV goes in all the right places!
Flywheel/clutch/transaxle reinstall is next!
Man, I hope the RTV goes in all the right places!
Flywheel/clutch/transaxle reinstall is next!
jbserra
SHO Member
Well, Flywheel, clutch reinstall completed.
Man, using a vise to get those pins in was a bear! Got them all to seat as far as I could, and then ground down the pins until the pressure plate sat on the flywheel. Bolted on the flywheel, blasted it with air, wiped it clean, and then put on the clutch and PP. Inserted alignment tool and tightened two bolts. Peeked under the PP to gauge if the clutch was centered, then bolted it all down.
Transaxle will be hoisted tomorrow night!
Man, using a vise to get those pins in was a bear! Got them all to seat as far as I could, and then ground down the pins until the pressure plate sat on the flywheel. Bolted on the flywheel, blasted it with air, wiped it clean, and then put on the clutch and PP. Inserted alignment tool and tightened two bolts. Peeked under the PP to gauge if the clutch was centered, then bolted it all down.
Transaxle will be hoisted tomorrow night!
jbserra
SHO Member
Help! As you may know, I've been following Gez89SHO's clutch replacement thread.
I was reading the procedure, and it says to put the TOB on an ungreased sleeve. The one that was in there was PACKED with grease. Should this be greased or ungreased?
Second, the procedure says to grease/**** the input shaft with the "included grease". Well, I don't see that anyone included any grease, so what type of grease are we talking here? Further, should this really be greased? It's just going into the clutch disk, right?
According to this diagram, I don't think anything should be greased? I'm really confused.
Thanks in advance!
I was reading the procedure, and it says to put the TOB on an ungreased sleeve. The one that was in there was PACKED with grease. Should this be greased or ungreased?
Second, the procedure says to grease/**** the input shaft with the "included grease". Well, I don't see that anyone included any grease, so what type of grease are we talking here? Further, should this really be greased? It's just going into the clutch disk, right?
According to this diagram, I don't think anything should be greased? I'm really confused.
Thanks in advance!
Gez89SHO
LEGO SHO
JB, you have a PM
but quickly- the TOB sleeve gets no grease. The input shaft (i.e., the part the clutch fits on) gets the **** supplied with the clutch. Not much- a bit will be enough.
but quickly- the TOB sleeve gets no grease. The input shaft (i.e., the part the clutch fits on) gets the **** supplied with the clutch. Not much- a bit will be enough.
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jbserra
SHO Member
Thank you for the answers. It all makes sense now. I don't think my Clutch Master I came with ****, but I will look again.
jbserra
SHO Member
Transaxle was last night. I thought I did something wrong, because it actually went on fairly easy. Using an ATV/Motorcycle jack I think was key. Worked very well.
Now to Sunday, arggggh. This was a frustrating night.
I got the old subframe bushings out, which took a little work, a cut-off tool, and a sawsall, but it wasn't too bad. Installed the new Gen III bushings, fit perfect.
Then I went back to the chasis, where the front,passenger bolt still hung because I had to cut off the head. There appears to be a nice opening on the engine side of the frame, but the A/C is blocking it. I thought I could move the A/C canister enough, but no dice. So, I can't find any way to get my old bolt out. Has anyone else run into this? What is the easiest access? On the drivers side, front, I can feel small metal pieces inside the frame, but I can't seem to fish them out. Also, the only big opening, is not big enough for the nut.
Anyone have any good ideas for making sure I get the front sub frame bolted on nicely?
Thanks!
Now to Sunday, arggggh. This was a frustrating night.
I got the old subframe bushings out, which took a little work, a cut-off tool, and a sawsall, but it wasn't too bad. Installed the new Gen III bushings, fit perfect.
Then I went back to the chasis, where the front,passenger bolt still hung because I had to cut off the head. There appears to be a nice opening on the engine side of the frame, but the A/C is blocking it. I thought I could move the A/C canister enough, but no dice. So, I can't find any way to get my old bolt out. Has anyone else run into this? What is the easiest access? On the drivers side, front, I can feel small metal pieces inside the frame, but I can't seem to fish them out. Also, the only big opening, is not big enough for the nut.
Anyone have any good ideas for making sure I get the front sub frame bolted on nicely?
Thanks!
IIRC, the access hole for the right side nutplate is indeed behind the AC receiver/dryer cannister. On the driver's side, there is a hole, on the wheel well side I think, where you can see the top of the installed nutplate using an inspection mirror. Others may chime in, but I don't think its any big deal if you need to dremel the hole a little to get the new nutplate through. I think I would drill a small hole in the corner of the new nutplate, and wrap a wire through it so I would have something to fish it into position without risk of losing it.
jbserra
SHO Member
Well, last night actually went somewhat well...
The subframe hole with the broken bolt:
I fished the shaft of the bolt out a different opening in the chasis, and I will clamp it there with a small collar. There's no way that's coming out right now, and this way it won't rattle. I was able to drop the replacement bolt in the large opening on the engine side.
Subframe hole with the broken nut:
I fished the pieces out with a magnetic tool, and got them all. I then realized there IS a larger opening on the engine side, and dropped the new nut in there.
rear subframe holes:
put the nut in place from inside the car. One has tabs, the other doesn't and I'm sure is going to spin.
I jacked the subframe into place, and it's just about aligned and ready to be bolted on. Of course, the slow down now? I lost 2 of the nuts off of the tranny mount...
I bought a magnetic pick up tool yesterday at Harbor Freight. Worth it's weight in gold. I needed it 3 times last night to fish pieces out.
Side question. Can I replace the tension bar to LCA bushing without special tools? It seems to be pretty snug!
The subframe hole with the broken bolt:
I fished the shaft of the bolt out a different opening in the chasis, and I will clamp it there with a small collar. There's no way that's coming out right now, and this way it won't rattle. I was able to drop the replacement bolt in the large opening on the engine side.
Subframe hole with the broken nut:
I fished the pieces out with a magnetic tool, and got them all. I then realized there IS a larger opening on the engine side, and dropped the new nut in there.
rear subframe holes:
put the nut in place from inside the car. One has tabs, the other doesn't and I'm sure is going to spin.
I jacked the subframe into place, and it's just about aligned and ready to be bolted on. Of course, the slow down now? I lost 2 of the nuts off of the tranny mount...
I bought a magnetic pick up tool yesterday at Harbor Freight. Worth it's weight in gold. I needed it 3 times last night to fish pieces out.
Side question. Can I replace the tension bar to LCA bushing without special tools? It seems to be pretty snug!
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jbserra
SHO Member
I'll answer my own question:
Yes, you need a puller to get the LCA off of the tension bar. In addition, make sure you buy a split bushing, because there is no way for Napa to press the one piece into the LCA, apparently...
Sub frame is up and bolted in. I'm not sure how that happened, but it's on and torqued. Steering rack, motor mounts, starter remounted. LCAs removed for rebushing'ing. New struts and Eibachs assembled and hung in strut towers.
Remaining:
Get the tension bar bushing in the LCAs, mount the LCAs, mount the knuckle to LCA, attach struts/tie rod/sway bar link, put axles in & through knuckles, attach y-pipe and shifter. I think that's about it! Then, an alignment...
...maybe rear struts too...
Yes, you need a puller to get the LCA off of the tension bar. In addition, make sure you buy a split bushing, because there is no way for Napa to press the one piece into the LCA, apparently...
Sub frame is up and bolted in. I'm not sure how that happened, but it's on and torqued. Steering rack, motor mounts, starter remounted. LCAs removed for rebushing'ing. New struts and Eibachs assembled and hung in strut towers.
Remaining:
Get the tension bar bushing in the LCAs, mount the LCAs, mount the knuckle to LCA, attach struts/tie rod/sway bar link, put axles in & through knuckles, attach y-pipe and shifter. I think that's about it! Then, an alignment...
...maybe rear struts too...
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K-Dawg
SHO Member
You'll want to get the axles in the knuckles before you attach the LCAs to the knuckles.
haydenkayne
New Member
jbserra, how was it using a motorcycle jack for the subframe? did it work smoothly? did you use that for the trans too?
zblackbeast
SHOtarded
This look about right?
jbserra
SHO Member
I'm not sure what you're looking for. I ordered the motorcraft struts from tasca.
I used 2 jacks for the subframe. One under each point where the tension bar crossed the subframe. Seemed to balance it pretty good using blocks of wood on top of the jacks.
The motorcycle jack was PERFECT. It made lower the transaxle a snap. On installation, I thought I did something wrong, because it took maybe 10-15 minutes to get it back into place. I jacked it up, and then stuffed a 2x4, and then another smaller shim under the fender side of the transaxle to get it close to straight on. You can also drag the jack front or back to line it up, and roll it in and out. If you can get one, I'd give it a shot.
You are absolutely correct!
UPDATE:
Well, it was time to button everything up last night (and this morning (3am, ouch)).
Tension bar bushings in LCAs, LCAs attached, new struts in knuckles, axles in knuckles, ball joint in knuckles, tie rod ends/sway bar links connected, shifter, y-pipe, buttoned up some other misc stuff, rotors/calipers, wheels and down she went. Well, it needs a couple more things before being truly road worthy, but I think I've made it. Thanks for all the help. I will make a contribution to the forum shortly.
If anyone has questions of me, please let me know!
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jbserra
SHO Member
Initial impressions:
Clutch pedal is LIGHT. I was expecting a little more pressure to engage, but it's really, really light.
The clutch grabs quick, which combined with the Fidanza is tricky when starting in first. The lightweight flywheel requires more RPMs and/or a slow let out to get the car moving without stalling. All other gear changes are smooth and quick. I notice a slight vibration when starting in first, but it is slight, and I am still within my break-in period.
VERY happy overall, mostly because I didn't break anything. I had a front end vibration that is now gone which I am estatic about. Car drives quick, and corners flat. Great car. I missed it! I'll post an update in 500 miles
Clutch pedal is LIGHT. I was expecting a little more pressure to engage, but it's really, really light.
The clutch grabs quick, which combined with the Fidanza is tricky when starting in first. The lightweight flywheel requires more RPMs and/or a slow let out to get the car moving without stalling. All other gear changes are smooth and quick. I notice a slight vibration when starting in first, but it is slight, and I am still within my break-in period.
VERY happy overall, mostly because I didn't break anything. I had a front end vibration that is now gone which I am estatic about. Car drives quick, and corners flat. Great car. I missed it! I'll post an update in 500 miles
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