'95 Clutch Replacement + struts/springs progress. Open to suggestions!

[jbserra]

Hello!

Since I'm wordy and my questions are hidden in the rest of my ramblings, I put my questions in red

First, I would like to thank Gez89SHO for the EXCELLENT clutch replacement thread. I have made great progress in 2x 2 hours sessions with my car. I occasionally looked at the repair manual, and found that to be more confusing then Gex89SHO's write up.

Ok, right now I have the axle nuts loose, the wheels off, the lower knuckle bolts removed, sway bar disconnected, tie rod ends disconnected, y-pipe off (broke 2 nuts ), starter out. I also have 1 pinch bolt on a strut out because I have a broken mount on one side, and am taking this opportunity to fix that, AND put in my Eibach springs (finally).

I purchased a Fidanza flywheel. I took it to Napa to have them make sure it was flat. I thought I had understood that as a good practice?

I also purchased the clutchmaster Stage 1. Both were from UltraRev. Looks like they have pretty good prices, plus coupon "sale" knocks more $ off.

SO, at the minimum, I'm going to have the upgraded clutch, flywheel, and springs. Since my car has 100k miles, and original struts, good time to replace those as well? If yes, what is the recommendation on a good aggressive street strut that will match the Eibachs well?

Second, I thought it would be a good time to replace the sub-frame bushings. General auto parts store replacement, or upgraded connectors?

I'll take a look at the oil pan gasket, and the 3 seals once I'm in there to see if they need to be replaced.

Anyone in Milwaukee have one of those support from above engine braces?!? I'm not sure I want to drop $80 on one right now. I'd pay rent in the form of your favorite beverage?

Last, is there any other items I should be checking, replacing, or upgrading while my car is torn apart?

Thanks in advance! I'm hoping this SHO lasts for another 100k (at least). I'm excited to try these upgrades!

-Jeff

 

[zak]

Go with Gen III subframe bushings. Rear main seal, ceramic TOB, r&r oil pan seals, do some searching on these terms - I built a nice engine support out of two 4x4's with some 2x3's along the fenders, but I think wood and all the stress rated hardware ran over $70.
- zak

 

[jbserra]

Go with Gen III subframe bushings. Rear main seal, ceramic TOB, r&r oil pan seals, do some searching on these terms - I built a nice engine support out of two 4x4's with some 2x3's along the fenders, but I think wood and all the stress rated hardware ran over $70.
- zak

Did I mess up by not buying the HD version from Sho Nut that does not include the "pressure plate mods", or will the stock CM Stage I work ok, plus ceramic TOB? Link

 

[zak]

Do some searching (realize that a significant portion of the Performance sections has been temporarily lost). CM Stage I changes the fulcrum point for a little higher spring force/holding power, and some say that their spotty QC in doing this sometimes leads to release problems. SHOnut took the route of having a straightforward, standard fulcrum point unit produced by CM with just heavy duty PP drive straps (SHOnut's specs).

 

[itwonder]

X2 on the Gen 3 subframe bushings. About $100 in parts. Great handling and less road noise than aluminum.

X2 on ceramic TOB. shonutperformance clutch video is worth the money too.

Now would be a fantastic time to replace the struts. You are going to have everything apart to make it super simple. I believe Konis are the only performance shock still made. The other choice is Monroe Sensatrac, which work well paired with Moog cargo coil springs. But I'm not sure how those would work out with the Eibachs.

Put the axle nuts back on. You did not have to remove those. You will be pulling the axles out of the transmission so the whole axle/ knuckle assembly is going to be hanging there free. Very easy to slide the strut out. Wrap some wire on the axles to preclude accidentally hyperextending the CV joints.

The most overlooked trouble spot in the clutch job is the flywheel pins. Make absolutely sure they are short enough so the pressure plate is fully seated on the flywheel.

Since the subframe is going to be sitting on the floor, now is the time to replace the strut rod bushings and inspect the rod for corrosion. The cups that are pressed into the subframe to hold those bushings sometimes work loose. So take the subframe over to a welding shop and have those tacked in place. Very easy when it's not in the car! I believe the current hot setup is the OEM red bushing rear of the frame and the Energy Suspension 4.7119G bushing in the front of the frame. A post by SDPATT from 4-4-08 explains. Also replace the sway bar mounting bushings, again very easy with the subframe out. This is also the time to clean and paint the subframe.

If you have any thoughts about doing the engine connecting rod bearing job, it is easier with the subframe out of the way.

Replace all of the rubber cooling hoses that are easy to get to with the subframe and transmission out. in particular, there is one just above the transmission that goes from the engine to the celo ( black hard pipe). It has a crimped connection, but you can cut the sleeve off and then replace with a regular clamp. Use NAPA 10080 or Gates 18060 tapered hose.

Personally, I read too many posts about problems with CM stage 1 and Fidanza. There is absolutely nothing wrong with the stock clutch setup + ceramic TOB unless you are going to go with boost or crazy nitrous. In that case the CM1 is not enough anyway imho.

 

[jbserra]

crap, I thought the CM stage I was going to be better then stock?!?

Ok, now I'm getting stressed. Now I'm reading bad things about both an aluminum FW and the clutch I picked. Is there anything better then stock for non-track use? The 17lb billet FW + OEM clutch + ceramic TOB? Killer combination?!?

 

[pitaSHO]

The most overlooked trouble spot in the clutch job is the flywheel pins. Make absolutely sure they are short enough so the pressure plate is fully seated on the flywheel.

X500000 The problem with the Fidanza, mostly, has never been the clutch, but the pins in the flywheel. If the pressure plate does not seat flush with the flywheel your clutch, whether it's a stocker or a Clutchmaster, won't last 1000 miles.

On the struts, I've heard that KYB's work with Eibachs, at least better than most of the other replacements. The others get worn out faster with the Eibachs. The Monroe struts are a cush ride; I just put them on a guy's car last week, and it rides like a Buick. I don't care for the Monroe's; my own opinion. I would recommend the Koni's, but they are pricey, and they are a much stiffer ride.

Best of luck.

 

[jbserra]

X500000 The problem with the Fidanza, mostly, has never been the clutch, but the pins in the flywheel. If the pressure plate does not seat flush with the flywheel your clutch, whether it's a stocker or a Clutchmaster, won't last 1000 miles.

On the struts, I've heard that KYB's work with Eibachs, at least better than most of the other replacements. The others get worn out faster with the Eibachs. The Monroe struts are a cush ride; I just put them on a guy's car last week, and it rides like a Buick. I don't care for the Monroe's; my own opinion. I would recommend the Koni's, but they are pricey, and they are a much stiffer ride.

Best of luck.

...and I've seen the huge emphasis on those pins. I will certainly make sure they are at the right height.

I'll look into the KYBs.

Any other feedback? This has been great!!!

 

[K-Dawg]

From what other people have said, I wouldn't waste my time or money on the KYBs. Koni or Monroe are about your only choices. Or maybe Motorcraft.

 

[pitaSHO]

... Or maybe Motorcraft.

True, true. The stock replacement struts would also be a good choice. The KYB's are not my fav, that's for sure; I only mention them when being sistered to the Eibachs, as opposed to Monroe's with the Eibachs.

jbserra, if you really wanted to improve the handling, install some sub frame connectors. They will flatten out your cornering even with bad struts. My .04 worth.

 

[turbo79]

True, true. The stock replacement struts would also be a good choice. The KYB's are not my fav, that's for sure; I only mention them when being sistered to the Eibachs, as opposed to Monroe's with the Eibachs.

jbserra, if you really wanted to improve the handling, install some sub frame connectors. They will flatten out your cornering even with bad struts. My .04 worth.

Can you tell me (us) where to get info, pics, and in particular parts for sub-frame connectors?

Many thanks! - Tom

 

[jbserra]

True, true. The stock replacement struts would also be a good choice. The KYB's are not my fav, that's for sure; I only mention them when being sistered to the Eibachs, as opposed to Monroe's with the Eibachs.

jbserra, if you really wanted to improve the handling, install some sub frame connectors. They will flatten out your cornering even with bad struts. My .04 worth.

I will do the Gen III sub frame mounts for sure.

The reason the struts are coming out are because I bought the Eibachs about a year ago and was waiting for an excuse to install them. Well, the strut mount broke on the drivers side front, so that was enough excuse to pull the struts out. The question is if I should replace the struts now since they have 100k on them, and what is a good match for the Eibachs. If the stock ones are a good match, I will just leave them for now until I wear them out.

 

[itwonder]

The question is if I should replace the struts now since they have 100k on them, and what is a good match for the Eibachs. If the stock ones are a good match, I will just leave them for now until I wear them out.

Trust me, if the struts have 100K, their time has past and now is the time to replace them! My combination is Moog Cargo coil springs with 1 coil cut off paired with the Monroe Sensatrak (not Monroe-matic struts). The result is a rather nice combination of sport sedan handling and good, but certainly NOT Buick soft, ride. I would think pairing the Eibachs with any newstrut would be better than pairing them with 100K mile stock struts.

 

[LOUDSHO92]

I do have Gen3 bushings and they do pretty good. Another alternative would be Aluminum Subframe Bushings: SHO Source

Konis are probabaly the best to go with Eibachs, never use KYB: SHO Source

 

[TYSHO]

When you do all of the work mentioned, it will be a good time to replace your inner tie rods and tie rod ends, if needed. Also inspect the PS hoses, they're cheap and easy replacements at this time, as well. The same can be said for the lower control arms, sway bar endlinks, strut mounts/bearings, front hub bearings, motor mounts, oil pan gasket, y-pipe gasket, and axle seals.

I guess it depends on how much of a POS the car really is, or will become if you don't replace the parts and install a firm suspension!

 

[jbserra]

I'm pretty sure I could use tie rod ends (boot is broken), and the bushing in the control arms look very cracked. I'm trying to figure out if the lower CA is worth replacing, but will get a better look when I drop the sub frame.

I can't seem to get the axles out of the hubs. I tried heating the hub, but that didn't work. Is there anything special to get these out?

 

[pitaSHO]

Can you tell me (us) where to get info, pics, and in particular parts for sub-frame connectors?

Many thanks! - Tom

SHOSource has the subframe connectors. They connect to the unibody right behind the subframe and run back to the bracket where the rear strut rods connect to the body (I don't know the technical name for these areas). There are pics on their site of the product, but not of them installed. If you do a search in the forum I'm sure there are pics of these guys installed. They are a weld in part, but if you know how to weld, no worries. Otherwise, take them to a muffler shop and have them welded in while the car sits level (many different opinions on this one, so go with whatever you're comfortable with). Hope this helps.

Chris

 

[jbserra]

Am I looking at the right diagram for the Gen III subframe bushings? #5 looks like it's for the control arm, and I don't see anything else that looks like a subframe bushing.

subframe diagram

 

[K-Dawg]

The Subframe bushing isn't in that diagram.

 

[jbserra]

The Subframe bushing isn't in that diagram.

Ok, does this list look right?

Subframe Bolts: N804442-S426 $1.90/bolt (you need 4)
Description: BOLT M12X1.75X112 HE

Subframe Recall Kit: XF1Z-5A364-AA = $12.62/each kit (Gen 1 and 2 need two kits)
Lower-Rear Subframe Bushing: YF1Z-5400155-AA = $12.75/each bushing (you need 4)
Upper-Rear Subframe Bushing: F6DZ-5400396-A = $10.66/each bushing (you need 4)