'93 SHO MTX engine problems

[Shoboy3]

I am looking to buy the mentioned car with 110,000 miles, most options, and in very good condition. I was told it needs a fuel filter or has bad gas but I want some other opinions. It takes a while to start, idles fine, but when you drive it hard (it seems) the car bucks or hesistates, it is random and most of the time the engine is very smooth. No check engine or gages lights on, anyone think that it could be a clogged fuel filter? The owner does not want to put any money and it is an as-is sale at $2650 and I have the option to purchase a 36 month, 54,000 mile warranty for $700 and repairs over $1000 cost me $100.

Comments or suggestions PLEASE!

 

[Shoboy3]

BUMP!

Come on, someone should know this. All I really need to know is if it could be the fuel filter. I am no mechanic and I have a cash deposit on the car---I lose it if I don't buy the car tomorrow. Please HELP!!!

[This message has been edited by Shoboy3 (edited 01-29-2002).]

 

[Shoman94]

Originally posted by Shoboy3:
BUMP!

Come on, someone should know this. All I really need to know is if it could be the fuel filter. I am no mechanic and I have a cash deposit on the car---I lose it if I don't buy the car tomorrow. Please HELP!!!

[This message has been edited by Shoboy3 (edited 01-29-2002).]

I doubt its the filter. sounds more electrical.


------------------
'94 MTX Silver
Tokico Struts, Eibach Springs, Spmotorsports SubFrame Conn. 29mm ShoShop Rear sway bar, Shohop Cat back, Gutted box with K&N, '96 Brake Upgrade, White Face Guages.

 

[sdpatt]

I also doubt that it is a clogged fuel filter. That would limit power under heavy load and high rpm conditions - high fuel flow situations. Rather, it is possibly the cylinder identification (CID) sensor (a.k.a. the camshaft position sensor). This sensor is mounted on the passenger side end of the firewall side exhaust camshaft. It could also be the throttle postion sensor. Hard to tell on that small amount of information.


------------------
Scott

1991, 254K miles, glass hood, police grill, SVO shifter, Catz fogs,
K&N, 73mm MAF, Superchip, PP Y-pipe, Borla cat-back, 190 lph pump
Eibach/Tokico/polyurethane, Alum SFB, SS front/rear strut braces,
16x7.5" Moda R1, 225/55ZR16 Bridgestone RE730, -1 deg camber x 4,
6 disc CD, Class II hitch, Silver award at SHOklahoma Car Show

 

[Cobria]

Buy the car and the warranty. For $3650 thats not a bad deal. Take the car to someplace like aaa and have a complete diagnostic run. Then take the results back to the dealer and have everything fixed under warranty. You should end up with a car in mechanically sound condition for a fairly reasonable price.

 

[luigisho]

I agree with Scott. It sounds alot like when my cam sensor went.

 

[Shoboy3]

I bought it, and by the time all the taxes, fees, and warranty were added in the total was ~$3100. The car needs back rotors, and pads. It is a one owner with all keys and manuals. The car started right up when I got there, but the sales guy stalled it and flooded it. To make a long story short we had to wait 10 minutes to see if it would start then we did the floor it and start it trick, fired right up. After I left the car lot I filled it up with 93 octane and since then I have had no trouble and I have started it numerous times. It might have just been the 87 octane they were using in it. I have also had the car up in the 5500-6500 range and it is not bucking anymore. The car will need a good cleaning and the leather conditioned but it was a steal.

 

[Shoboy3]

Well, I thought the hesitating problem was gone, but it is not! When you go to WOT the car will hold back like it does not want to move, but if I let off the gas pedal a little ways it flys like a SOB. The back brakes make horrible noises when coming to a stop (quite embarassing), and they are getting done be the local ford tech under the table this Saturday morning. The driver's rear seems to have no pad left and just the metal behind the pad (which has ruined the rotors), and it is making the pretty white rims a yellowish color and near the insides is this black shit (very hard to get off). So I have stopped driving it until I get the brakes, and fuel filter done.

Where are the spark plugs in this car (I can't even see the wires)?

Any truth that the clutch alone will cost $600 whenn it goes + labor?

[This message has been edited by Shoboy3 (edited 02-01-2002).]

 

[Dave Ladely]

Yes, the clutch will cost around $600.00; Id get the stock clutch with the repair kit for the shaft, which is well known to be necessary. The stock clutch has been revamped so is pretty good now, cost about $250. for the part. I had it done, works fine. Plugs are at end of plug wires in tubes. Be sure to get the right plugs, the ones specifically for that engine, I get Motorcraft from Ford just to be sure.

Originally posted by Shoboy3:
Well, I thought the hesitating problem was gone, but it is not! When you go to WOT the car will hold back like it does not want to move, but if I let off the gas pedal a little ways it flys like a SOB. The back brakes make horrible noises when coming to a stop (quite embarassing), and they are getting done be the local ford tech under the table this Saturday morning. The driver's rear seems to have no pad left and just the metal behind the pad (which has ruined the rotors), and it is making the pretty white rims a yellowish color and near the insides is this black shit (very hard to get off). So I have stopped driving it until I get the brakes, and fuel filter done.

Where are the spark plugs in this car (I can't even see the wires)?

Any truth that the clutch alone will cost $600 whenn it goes + labor?

[This message has been edited by Shoboy3 (edited 02-01-2002).]