93 ATX keeps stalling

[DW012]

My 93 ATX SHO keeps stalling after running for a few minutes. The car starts up OK every time, but just doesn't want to stay ruuning. The problem first started on the highway, the engine felt a little sluggish, then it stalled. Had recent tune up at Ford dealership, new plugs and wires, also replaced thermostat and radiator. The car now has 101K miles and was running good until yesterday. The temperature was 92 here, could that have anything to do with it?

 

[sdpatt]

We could use a little more information in order to diagnose your stalling problem. Has the CHECK ENGINE light illuminated at all before the engine dies completely? This would be an excellent source of information as to the responsible engine control component since the error codes are stored in the electronic engine control (EEC) computer. Retrieving the codes is a very simple task that takes only a short piece of wire and your ignition key.

Did the car run correctly after you picked it up from the Ford service job? I would be inclined to think that they either damaged something or didn't reinstall all the electrical or vacuum hoses correctly.

My first impression is a heat related fuel supply problem. That would most likely be the fuel pump. Are you still on the original pump? If so, you've gotten good service from it and it most likely needs to be replaced.

Can you provide any more details as to the conditions and behavior of the engine during the stalling episodes?

 

[TwiceSHOwn]

Scott, as ussual you are pretty darn good. My car started doing this too and it was akin to vapor lock. Fuel pump getting hot as the weather warmed up would cause the car to stall it would ussualy start right up but sometimes i had to pop the hood to let it cool off a little. It was not as some will tell you a CPS problem in my case.

 

[DW012]

Sorry for being so vague, the check engine light didn't come on, but does pop off and on occasionally. Could you tell me how to read engine codes? I'm sure it could help me out alot.
Yes, I'm still using the original fuel pump and the car ran OK after Ford dealer worked on it. This problem has happened to me two other times in the last 6 months, but it would start right up after a few minutes and would run fine again.

 

[stevetatro]

The "official" instructions on how to pull codes off and EEC-IV are here: http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html

There are SHO-specific instructions in easier to read English for morons like me here: http://www.shotimes.com/SHO3eeccodes.html

Just get yourself a metal paper clip, a piece of paper, and a pen. Jumper the two appropriate connectors, relax in your driver's seat, turn the key on, and you'll get codes! Do it again, but start the car, and you'll get more codes!

Can you tell how much fun I think this is? I enjoy it so much I do it on a weekly basis :^)

If you get stuck, or it gives you some error codes, let us know and we can walk you through it!

Good luck.

 

[naval-avi8or]

TwiceSHOwn:
Scott, as ussual you are pretty darn good. My car started doing this too and it was akin to vapor lock. Fuel pump getting hot as the weather warmed up would cause the car to stall it would ussualy start right up but sometimes i had to pop the hood to let it cool off a little. It was not as some will tell you a CPS problem in my case.

I had the exact same thing with my car it was my fuel pump. i've chimmed in on several other post dealing with the same problem. I broke down in the middle of BFE Mississippi. If you think Ford will screw you wait till your in the same situation and you will learn what a good screw'n like. As far as the pump they start that SHO whine and they can do that for a while. Then the tart stalling but the problem just happens once in a blue moon and you can't seem to duplicate it for any one so they can't/you can't fix it cause you can't quit scratchin your head. So the only way you will diagnos it its to take a fuel pressure reading the second it happens. Oh BTW it is not the opening of the hood that helps the problem its when the pump its self cools down the armature frees up and ypur back in bussiness. hotter tmps low fuel and driving distance determine how long it takes for it to freeze up.

 

[DW012]

Thanks for the help guys, I'll try running codes and let you know what I find.

 

[D]

wow, i guess a lot of shos acted up at the same time. i was all so having this problem.but thought it was my egr valve.then i was told it might be my CPS. when i ran my codes it took out the chance of the cps. what i notice was when it was real hot out and i was low on fuel it would die after i hit normal running temp. I'd wait for 5-10 then it would run for 5-6 minutes. totally ****** off i went to p/m CD and started reading every thing.the one thing i found that fit my problem was contamination recall. when ford welded the tanks it made weld spatter litter the in side...and for some reason or another it would only effect the fuel pump on hot days. so what i had to do is drop my tank put a new pump on the tree and change the tea bag [pump filter]. then clean the inside of the tank. their is a lot of grit that looks like little pieces of metal.and the pump filter was full of it.what was happening is the pump being clogged with shit it had to work real hard their for heat up and die. since i did mine i have had no problem. hardest part was getting the nuts off the tank straps. so hit them with some weasel Dick 40 before you start.

 

[D]

<small>[ April 20, 2002, 08:30 AM: Message edited by: D ]</small>

 

[DW012]

I found two codes, 111 which means the system passes if I read it correctly and the other code was 212 which is an IDM circuit failure/ Spout circuit grounded. What does this mean and how do I fix it?

 

[Mike Kopstain]

The spout circuit gives the computer the ability to advance/ retard timing. If it is grounded, the computer loses it's ability to adjust the timing. Make sure that the jumper is connected to the spout connector. It is just a gray piece of plastic taped into the plug. Maybe someone here has a picture.