92 MTX WILL NOT START

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CISAACS

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I am trying to get my 92 parts car to run before i remove the transmission but all it will do is crank,crank and crank.It does read about 500rpm on the tach when turning over.I replaced the cps anyway and still nothing.The ground strap is good and tight and both bolts are tight in the manifold.I removed the ICM and put it on my 93 MTX and it started right up so i know it is ok.I still do not have any spark from the plugs.Can anyone help me out? It is driving me crazy. :confused:
 

haydenm315

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CISAACS:
It does read about 500rpm on the tach when turning over.I replaced the cps anyway and still nothing. :confused:
Confused to say the least. 500rpm on the tach when cranking = no problem with cps. You need to do koeo tests and then troubleshoot the ignition and fuel delivery systems. Helms probably has the answer, but I'm preoccupied with fixing this taser, flashlight, and alarm thing right now to shock my cousin :)
 

autobahnsho

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I can't remember what they're called right now (just got off a 12hr overnight shift, but I'm still on the SHOforum.. rofl ) but if you don't connect the sensors on the end of the manifold opposite the airfilter it won't start although the rest of the car is perfect.

otherwise, it still sounds like a connection problem somewhere. I'd run the codes. (shotimes.com / maintenance)
good luck!
 

CISAACS

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Motor is getting fuel and has a new coil pack. I have checked all fuses and they are all ok. What do you mean when you say DIS?
 

CISAACS

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I will run the koeo test and see what it tells me but the car has not had a battery in it for a while. The ICM has the the letters DIS on it so i assume that is the DIS you are talking about.The only other thing i can think of is the battery cables. I will replaced them also and see what happens.Would the CMP have anything to do with it not starting?
 

masho95

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DIS = Distributorless Ignition Module. The rectangular grey module mounted on the crossover tube of the intake on the passenger side of the car. Controls multiple things, especially related to your ignition problem. And no the CMP doesn't really have much to do with it not starting. If it was a CMP problem the car would eventually run after multiple tries even if it was bad.
 

CISAACS

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I checked cables today and ran koeo test. The cables were in good shape and the only code i got was 519, PSP circuit failed or open.Anyone know what the PSP is and were is it located? :confused:
 

projectSHO89

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PSP (Power Steering Pressure Switch).

Don't worry about it.

You need to start over and concentrate on the basics: Air, Fuel, and Spark.

Air - Crack the throttle 1/4 way and see if there is any effect. If none, that is not the problem

Fuel - Check fuel pressure at the rail. If pressure is good, then fuel is available to the injecytors

Spark - This one gets harder. You have to perform electronic troubleshooting to locate the cause (unless you just want to guess and hope you get lucky). Get a meter. Check for power to the coil. If none, find it. If there, check for power to the DIS module. If none, find it. If there, you can test the circuit from the DIS to the coil by backprobing the electrical connectors and looking for battery voltage while the keyswitch is in RUN.

Verify that the 5 V reference supply generated by the PCM is not missing. If it is, it might be due to a component or wire that is shorted to ground.

As you can see, there is a procedure to diagnosing and repair this concern. All you have to do is follow it and the problem should be resolved.

Steve
 

Monterusto

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IF YOU HAVE EVER PULLED THE HARNESS? OFF THE COMPUTER? BY THE FIREWALL FOR ANY REASON MAKE SURE THERE IT A TIGHT CONNECTION AND THE BOLT THAT TIGHTENS IT IS TIGHT AND CLIPS ARE CLIPPED. BY THE WAY WHAT IS THAT OVER THERE?
 

Monterusto

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IF YOU HAVE EVER PULLED THE HARNESS? OFF THE COMPUTER? BY THE FIREWALL FOR ANY REASON MAKE SURE THERE IT A TIGHT CONNECTION AND THE BOLT THAT TIGHTENS IT IS TIGHT AND CLIPS ARE CLIPPED. BY THE WAY WHAT IS THAT OVER THERE? I HAD A SIMILAR PROBLEM, I MESSED WITH THAT STUFF AND TRIED TO START AND GOT THE SAME EFFECT.
 

CISAACS

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OK i finally got the car to run :) somewhat. There was a bad miss so i ran the codes after i ran the motor and got 215 and 216 the coils 1 and 2 failed.I had replaced the coil pack with a new one a few days ago and it seems to be bad because when i put the old one back on it ran perfect except for a bad surge at idle speed.Someone at some time has removed the stock airbox and replaced it with just a cone filter and just left the ACT sensor hanging pluged up.Does anyone know if that would cause the engine to surge? If not, does anyone have any ideas?Anyway the motor runs great with no knocks or pings if anybody needs a good motor.My thanks goes out to everyone who has helped me with this problem. thumb
 

CISAACS

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I let car run today for a couple of hours and the idle smoothed out and the car runs great. The car had been setting for about a year and a half so i guess it needed just to run to straighten itself out.
 
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