802SHO 2010 Build

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802SHO

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Test drive tomorrow. Fingers crossed the new CKP works! I added a rubber washer to the base of the bolt to help reduce vibration IMG 6705
I picked up a connector at O’Reillys supposed to be an ignition connector. Brought the sensor I took out with me and it fit perfectly. I didn’t have any butt connectors so I just stripped the wires back a little long, ran it through the pins and wrapped them around, then finished it off with heat shrink IMG 6728IMG 6729
After I did both I added DEI high heat loom and then DEI heat sleeve. New IPhone 17 pro max and some of these pics files are too big? That’s weird. Can’t upload the loom pics. You can see my front turbo oil return plug. IMG 6738
Then I notched a little bit of the heat shield.
IMG 6743IMG 6745
IMG 6754
Would certainly be nice if this gets me back to normal operation. Only one way to find out. Ryan emailed me and he wants a driving log and WOT blip
 

Bronco2fan

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I don't know what kind of OBD scanner you have, but I've been looking into one from Foxwell. One the guys on my SN95 forum uses them. Apparently, these can see things and break down where to look specifically. Pricey, but may be worth it.

 

kryptto

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HP Tuners talks to every module (PCM, TCM, ABS, BCM, etc.) and reads true DTCs straight from Ford’s CAN bus, not just powertrain-level P-codes like SCT.
like I mentioned to you, people don't want to pay the tuner the $50 extra to unlock the tuners license and HP was sidelined for SCT. I was told the same from my friend who works with me on mine back when I first started tuning. the problem less qualified tuners in the HP side. I am glad you found one.
 

802SHO

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I really hope ppl take notice to GH’s unethical methonal nonsense fairy-tale tuning logic and look elsewhere. Keith is like 1 if not the 1 person getting serious tuning from Matt everyone else has the watered down universal tune that confuses the F out of the knock sensors and it’s now mainstream to need to add ethanol or octane (bandaid) bc it’s not properly tuned for the exact fuel in the tank. What a joke GH Tuning is. Sorry not sorry.

I found the fuse 49 added power did make a difference but under load it can’t support proper power so I bought a great condition used under the hood fuse box out of a 2011 SHO. I will swap and I think it’s a wrap. One way to find out IMG 6800
 

mattr66usa

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I really hope ppl take notice to GH’s unethical methonal nonsense fairy-tale tuning logic and look elsewhere. Keith is like 1 if not the 1 person getting serious tuning from Matt everyone else has the watered down universal tune that confuses the F out of the knock sensors and it’s now mainstream to need to add ethanol or octane (bandaid) bc it’s not properly tuned for the exact fuel in the tank. What a joke GH Tuning is. Sorry not sorry.
Wow.... You really are something just randomly posting everywhere you can about something you clearly don't understand. Your "flame for clicks" campaign won't bode well for you I promise. This is totally uncalled for.....
 

Angrymongoose

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So obviously there is a lot of testing and work to figure out your electrical gremlin and I realize you may not have posted everything youve tried/ruled out so far.

However, have you considered the possibility that the pcm itself could be on its way out? If its the original is gotta be about 16 years old, and its been flashed quite a few times.

I dont know how you would go about testing this theory, but thought Id throw it out there.
 

Zpak

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So obviously there is a lot of testing and work to figure out your electrical gremlin and I realize you may not have posted everything youve tried/ruled out so far.

However, have you considered the possibility that the pcm itself could be on its way out? If its the original is gotta be about 16 years old, and its been flashed quite a few times.

I dont know how you would go about testing this theory, but thought Id throw it out there.
Where the F were you a hundred twelve tests ago!? Actually a very plausible theory.
 

Angrymongoose

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Where the F were you a hundred twelve tests ago!? Actually a very plausible theory.
I dunno man. I had a real long day at work yesterday and spent about 7 hours of it driving. During the last hour drive home I was thinking about anything and everything to keep the mind awake.

I remembered I had an old 2000 Sebring Lxi once upon a time and I had to replace the pcm in that. I had trouble shot so many things and nothing made a real difference so I swapped the whole thing and bam problem solved.

Figured that seemed kinda similar to this. Granted swapping the pcm in this will be a bit more of a pain than the Sebring was.
 

802SHO

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I’ve thought of it it’s just not next in diagnosis. I’ll let the data of real results lead me there. Unlike some people.

That last part is meant for someone else.
 

Angrymongoose

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I dont blame you. I imagine swapping that could be a pain in your situation.

It just seemed like you were getting pretty close to out of other possibilities. Everyone can get deep into the weeds and miss things so I figured just in case I'd bring it up.
 

802SHO

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I dont blame you. I imagine swapping that could be a pain in your situation.

It just seemed like you were getting pretty close to out of other possibilities. Everyone can get deep into the weeds and miss things so I figured just in case I'd bring it up.
Oh for sure and I do appreciate you being vocal about it. I really do. It is a real possibility. Even more so bc recently a guy who has been around for a while, he did a big build and he went out and ran 11.2. He is so nonchalant he revealed that like a year or so after he did it. He recently shared that’s he’s replacing his PCM. He has a 2010 too or I know for sure it’s 10-12. Eran Hilderbrand. He chimed in about the meth thing bc he’s 100% meth tuned as well. I didn’t ask him about it yet.

Right now I’m after the bus bar located in the under the hood fuse box bc fuse 49 feeds TCM power. It’s not getting power when relay 53 (brand new Ford revised relay) energizes and that’s a major problem. So when I jumped it with power and the transmission stayed online barely, it is the biggest clue. It needs repair and bypassing it revealed the issue with it receiving power also ties into power out.

I went on attack mode with the CKP and when it fell out again, I then went back to the bus bar and it’s definitely in need of repair.

So if I do replace the PCM, it’s after the results of these other players are verified and eliminated. I’m chasing it and I will find the root cause. It’s inevitable and bc of that it takes some of the edge off. It’s a delay to my results nothing more.
 

802SHO

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I got an email from Ryan Martin, checking in and to give him a call about my transmission. IMG 6891
I called him a little after 4pm and he picks up quick, 1 ring and “Hello this is Ryan.”

I introduced who I was and said the one with the transmission power issue. He asked yeah ok so what’s going on with it? You keep blowing a fuse?

I said not exactly. I gave him the rundown. The last successful drive ending with it powering down on my driveway (Lucky). The ignition cycling allowing it to function a little more until needing another cycle. Then the full list of diagnostics I did.

Missing EMI protection—fixed
Checked grounds—fixed grounds
Checked fuses—replaced fuses
Checked relays—replaced relays.

The factory reject Relay 53 and 65 quietly revised and updated by Ford.

I bought better electrical probing devices and thought I was onto something with the relays—nope, grounds —nope. Each test resulting in new or upgraded changes.

Road tests, lift tests, data logs. Solenoids buzzing.

Ryan sends new base map. HP DCT check reveals P1602. Fuse 49 explored and no power. Jumped fuse 49 with power and transmission stays active on lift test, twice. But it’s low load. Fails on road test but doesn’t completely drop out. Major clue bus bar damaged. Solenoids buzzing gets louder with throttle input.

CKP sensor wires checked, CKP replaced, connector replaced. Road test same thing.

Thermal failure and intermittent power feed fault. Solenoids appear half energized low load and screaming for power under load.

Can drive the car farthest cold start. Driving or idling doesn’t matter it’s thermal activated drop out. Idle too long already dropped out. Still active but barely bc of forced power feed to fuse 49.

I said I don’t think it’s PCM bc half the car would go wonky. He said exactly if it were the pcm you wouldn’t lose power to 1 pin. Sounds like bus bar or female terminal loose.

I said I have a donor BJB so I’m going to swap it out and I’m expecting to find my bus bar with visible issues. He agreed I’d likely find some corrosion.

Was nice to have him approve of my diagnosis and current plan to replace the BJB the fault is inside the bus bar. It’s not getting power from relay 53 and that’s within the BJB. It’s not post BJB in the transmission harness, that’s downstream from the fault.

I said hey since I got you on the phone do you see in HP any restrictions for tuning my 2010 SHO? There seems to be some misinformation that some tables aren’t defined but that’s coming from a tuner who appears to be using his comfort level as hard cuts on the platform capabilities.

Without hesitation he said, 100%, 100%. Man I felt that in my chest.

He said with HP the basics are there for making power. I said it’s my understanding SCT you can push more buttons but it’s less control whereas there’s less things to touch in HP but the core controls are there and more access. So you can do more with less generally speaking?

Exactly, he said. He said I didn’t take note of anything of concern I will look again but there’s always core controls of the guts needed to make real power.

Talked for about 20 min. He said swap the bus bar and let me know how it goes. I said, well since the solenoids buzz that’s a huge clue. When it’s done first I’ll verify ignition ON fuse 49 has power by itself. If that’s good I’m confident I won’t hear the solenoids buzzing. I added, my driveway is about 350 ft. If I don’t hear them idling and I don’t hear them with throttle, I’ll know by the end of my driveway if I’m good.

My next check in will likely be with a steady cruise log and WOT blip. You want to check my actual boost right? Is it WG spring? He said yes it’s low boost I want to verify exactly what it is first. I said ok, perfect. I’m going to keep the momentum going, I normally stop until spring but I want to get some good data and even though it’s winter I can do rolls. I’ll wait for dry days.

He said sounds good. Happy Thanksgiving.
Upward and onward we go!!!
 

6500rpm

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I think it's important to remember the age of the vehicle and the number of times connectors have been unplugged and reconnected. Junkink the fuse box considering you had to essentially wire around it is a good move and if you had relays that sounded like they were pulse width modulated, I don't know if I'd trust the contacts to be 100%. I'm hoping you didn't wire wrap and shrink wrap electrical connections, everything should be properly soldered and covered with a weather sealed heat shrink. In 40 years of repairing new cars, I've never had a failure like yours from anything EMI related. If you suspect an item like the crank sensor is bad, other than data logging it and looking for drop outs, I'd verify the resistance, and then if in doubt, load test it with a light connected to power and ground which is also the proper way to test any suspect circuit, especially considering the age and hands on work that's been done to that vehicle. Lots of opportunities for broken or corroded wires, or spread terminals that will pass a resistance test, but fail a load test. Remember, a few good strands or loose connection will pass a resistance check, but will fail miserably to carry enough amperage to make the circuit work properly. With that said, I'm a big fan of PowerProbe products, they offer a wide variety of quality products for circuit testing. Not sure if they make drag testing tools for terminals, but that's another item I'd recommend you add to your box. Every time you unplug and reconnect a terminal, or front probe, you take a chance of spreading the female terminal causing proper electrical connection issues. No criticism meant, but you've done a lot, a whole lot of work on that piece of art. My experience comes from years of trouble shooting new cars (new to around 3 years old) and I've seen all the things mentioned. If I had a dime for every time I've been the 2nd or 3rd diagnosing an issue, only to find that the Tech fixed the faulty part, but created a secondary issue while diagnosing by front probing a terminal. Unfortunately, when it comes to the level of programming you're dealing with I'm an absolute zero. Best of luck, we all want to see what the cars capable of doing.
 

802SHO

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I think it's important to remember the age of the vehicle and the number of times connectors have been unplugged and reconnected. Junkink the fuse box considering you had to essentially wire around it is a good move and if you had relays that sounded like they were pulse width modulated, I don't know if I'd trust the contacts to be 100%. I'm hoping you didn't wire wrap and shrink wrap electrical connections, everything should be properly soldered and covered with a weather sealed heat shrink. In 40 years of repairing new cars, I've never had a failure like yours from anything EMI related. If you suspect an item like the crank sensor is bad, other than data logging it and looking for drop outs, I'd verify the resistance, and then if in doubt, load test it with a light connected to power and ground which is also the proper way to test any suspect circuit, especially considering the age and hands on work that's been done to that vehicle. Lots of opportunities for broken or corroded wires, or spread terminals that will pass a resistance test, but fail a load test. Remember, a few good strands or loose connection will pass a resistance check, but will fail miserably to carry enough amperage to make the circuit work properly. With that said, I'm a big fan of PowerProbe products, they offer a wide variety of quality products for circuit testing. Not sure if they make drag testing tools for terminals, but that's another item I'd recommend you add to your box. Every time you unplug and reconnect a terminal, or front probe, you take a chance of spreading the female terminal causing proper electrical connection issues. No criticism meant, but you've done a lot, a whole lot of work on that piece of art. My experience comes from years of trouble shooting new cars (new to around 3 years old) and I've seen all the things mentioned. If I had a dime for every time I've been the 2nd or 3rd diagnosing an issue, only to find that the Tech fixed the faulty part, but created a secondary issue while diagnosing by front probing a terminal. Unfortunately, when it comes to the level of programming you're dealing with I'm an absolute zero. Best of luck, we all want to see what the cars capable of doing.
I appreciate the insight, man. Definitely value the experience you’re bringing to the table, and I just wanted to add a little context to what’s already been done on the car.

The only wire work or splicing I’ve done anywhere regarding the transmission powering down was the CKP connector. The lock tab was broken and missing, and that spot has absolutely zero slack. The wires run straight to the base of the connector and are just long enough to reach the sensor deep in the bell housing. It was one of those classic textbook-versus-in-the-field situations, and I wasn’t about to start soldering directly above my face in that cramped position. The repair is clean with no tension on the wires.

EMI only entered the conversation because the protective tape on that harness section was missing. Once I replaced it and inspected it, that angle was completely closed out. There were no signs of EMI being involved.

I haven’t front-probed any connectors. The only testing I’ve done was simple fuse-post checks with a Power Probe, so none of the terminals were stressed from diagnostics. The one connector issue I had was the CKP tab, which is exactly why that repair was done.

I also checked the Relay 53 female terminals since they felt loose in the same way Fuse 49 did. Bending them inward stopped the flickering ground reading, but that didn’t restore power. The feed is just dead. Fuse 49’s terminal simply isn’t making proper contact anymore.

Everything I’ve seen points to a compromised terminal inside the BJB, and that lines up perfectly with the symptoms I’ve been fighting. I’m gearing up to repair or replace the affected terminals, or swap the box entirely if needed.

I really appreciate you jumping in. Extra eyes and experience are always welcome, especially with electrical work this deep.
 

802SHO

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I’ve also ran the engine more than a couple times since my electrical connector repair and the CKP replacement (the newest new one). The sensor, connector and splice are a non issue at this time.
 

802SHO

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Just waiting for my CTA terminal kit to arrive. I really want this to go perfect and dissecting a 15 year old fuse box with a pick and needle nose pliers won’t do me any good. Really nice pro level kit. It didn’t ship when it was supposed to so I’m waiting for that to come in. Supposed to come in around Monday.

Then it’s swap, verify and test. Then log for Ryan.

Also I’m looking into blocking airflow. My need for cooling has been too effective. I’m going to block off airflow to the side of the bumper IMG 5824
I’ll add some block off plates with some scrap ABS and do some rivnuts or just bolts. Ordered an OEM 3 piece grille. IMG 6899Looking into a 150-200 watt heating element and inverter to hopefully preheat my trans to 120 before I even start it. It’s so effective at cooling I’ve never reached transmission thermostat open temp to flow to my trans cooler ever. On those 30 min drives one-way to dinner …150 range is the hottest it’s been in 90 degree temps.

Anyone ever needed a trans heater? Didn’t think so. I’d rather a heater than increase wear doing brake boost holds. I don’t want to have to drive around for 1 hour to do a data log pull either. I believe Racelouvers sells exact fit block off plates. I’ll have to reach out. Bolt on the solid plates and put the vents on when I really need the cooling.
 

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