FrankK
SHO Member
You have the Terminator version ECU.
802SHO 2010 Build
- Thread starter 802SHO
- Start date
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bpd1151
Lurking Around
Seems about right.
Kind of wondering if I may run into this same issue as I believe mine was built that same year as Andrew's.
Sent from my SM-S928U using Tapatalk
802SHO
Platform Myth Predator: Boost > VE, MBT, Cams
Probably. But I think programming will be fine now that I can put it in stock mode and do all the programming while it’s essentially asleep. It’ll wake back up in the tune it was last in. Which running another data log is Rev52 is next. See if it’s any better which it more than likely will be.
802SHO
Platform Myth Predator: Boost > VE, MBT, Cams
Hate to admit it but when I went out to do this data log I had flashed the tune in the garage while it was still on a battery tender. Then I started it in the garage with the door open, checking to see if I could find some parameters for Brad to add to the config file. Well I kind of didn’t find what I was looking for …but fast forward 5-7 min….i thought I should idle in the driveway. Then I got all ready while still in the car to go out for a log and started driving. My road speed limit is 25. I got up to 35 in 4th and did the first manipulation of OAR and got it right back to .-30 in that first try. Then I caught a yellow microfiber rag blowing around ….and then I liked and saw my tender sitting in my wiper cowl….
I FORGOT ABOUT THE TENDER.
I pulled over and removed it and put it in the back seat at which time I noticed I left my hood pins off. I was so excited and distracted by finding parameters that I totally forgot about the tender and hood pins. Caught it early enough and no damage to anything except the cord had a little road rash on it. Man I need to slow my thinking down when I’m excited to go out and log
I FORGOT ABOUT THE TENDER.
I pulled over and removed it and put it in the back seat at which time I noticed I left my hood pins off. I was so excited and distracted by finding parameters that I totally forgot about the tender and hood pins. Caught it early enough and no damage to anything except the cord had a little road rash on it. Man I need to slow my thinking down when I’m excited to go out and log
I am hove done this leaving the garage, and scare the shitttzz out of myself
SM105K
Streetlight Grand Prix Champ/ IG @fafomotorsports
Better then the whole damn gas pump handle and hose!!!!
802SHO
Platform Myth Predator: Boost > VE, MBT, Cams
I’ve done that once hahah luckily didn’t cause any damage I just felt something not moving while I started moving
802SHO
Platform Myth Predator: Boost > VE, MBT, Cams
F yeah!!!! I had to visualize the end game and went for it! Success!!!!
FCK yeah - those FORSCAN writes are nerve racking
802SHO
Platform Myth Predator: Boost > VE, MBT, Cams
This is Forscan.
Hello,
FORScan offers you the latest software available, accoding to the Ford database (-GUC), although current software in PCM is 1 revision older (-GUB). As you may note, it is created for more new hardware (-CB) than your current one (-CA). These hardware IDs are marked as compatible in our datbase, but in practice, we experienced situations when newer firmware didn't work properly in similar situation. So, we added this warning to let the operator make the decision.
In other words, you have 2 choices:
1. Select -GUB instead of -GUC and flash your current firmware (less risky)
2. Flash -GUC (more risky but more new firmware may work better).
--
Regards,
FORScan Team
So…ok but where and when do I choose after I press NO, to start programming? No response, or at least not very quickly. So I couldn’t help but run this scenario through AI. I fed it more and more and more info and the decision became crystal clear. What I needed was an objective and factual perspective. This are the key takeaways
So I pressed NO and followed the prompts. Visualizing myself in the car drag racing and winning while it took its time and when it finally hit 100% I was floored. Flashed back to my Rev52 tune. Now it’s time to slowly speed up through the gears and slow down slowly about 7-8 times and that’s the procedure for relearning the fill times of the solenoids
Hello,
FORScan offers you the latest software available, accoding to the Ford database (-GUC), although current software in PCM is 1 revision older (-GUB). As you may note, it is created for more new hardware (-CB) than your current one (-CA). These hardware IDs are marked as compatible in our datbase, but in practice, we experienced situations when newer firmware didn't work properly in similar situation. So, we added this warning to let the operator make the decision.
In other words, you have 2 choices:
1. Select -GUB instead of -GUC and flash your current firmware (less risky)
2. Flash -GUC (more risky but more new firmware may work better).
--
Regards,
FORScan Team
So…ok but where and when do I choose after I press NO, to start programming? No response, or at least not very quickly. So I couldn’t help but run this scenario through AI. I fed it more and more and more info and the decision became crystal clear. What I needed was an objective and factual perspective. This are the key takeaways
So I pressed NO and followed the prompts. Visualizing myself in the car drag racing and winning while it took its time and when it finally hit 100% I was floored. Flashed back to my Rev52 tune. Now it’s time to slowly speed up through the gears and slow down slowly about 7-8 times and that’s the procedure for relearning the fill times of the solenoids
Now I get it glad you waited for their instructions... What a valuable resource they - Forscan Dev team has been. For what they make of the license. I figured you didn't roll forward on a lark.
802SHO
Platform Myth Predator: Boost > VE, MBT, Cams
Last night went very well. Took the SHO out. Called it Dinner and Data Log. Stefanie opted to drive her car……something about her hair and the smell of gas. Lol!
First cold start back to Rev52. One thing I did on accident while trying to get the adaptive tables of the transmission reset was I reset adaptive tables for all modules…oops. It was successful though. And I reckon it is probably a good thing. Start out all new with no memory.
Back to our favorite restaurant, it’s more than just the food. It’s the people too but it’s also the roads are great the whole way. And it’s about 30 min one way. I thought I’ll bring my laptop and data log a pull on the way home. Letting the car relearn and get OAR reset during the 30 min there.
First we stopped to get gas. I was a min or so behind Stefanie getting gas in her Mercedes and when I pulled up she had some teenagers gawking at her car. She gets a lot of attention in her car. It was great to see. She was smiling and pointed at me when I pulled in. One of them said he saw my car at Wolfsgart.
The drive went great on the way, my old drywall boss saw me and called me. When I arrived at the restaurant I had an Instagram message from a local guy that had saw me and recorded me driving on the way to the restaurant through Essex. Was like **** yeah man thanks for the roller! Added that to my IG story. An old high school friend has text me that he saw me driving through Jericho and the car looked mean! It’s just so crazy the amount of attention in this car. It’s seldom on the street but gets seen so much.
After dinner I got ready with the laptop and we started driving back. Too much traffic. And one really weird guy in front of me. Going 10 under the speed limit, then brakes hard then floors it. Then he’s all over the road. I kept a distance back from him. And it seems like I get stuck behind people going under the speed limit it’s very annoying. So this guy happens to be going 30 min the exact same way as me. I wanted to pull my hair out expect I don’t have any.
I texted Stefanie follow me. I took a left and jumped on the highway and turned around in my spot, where I do all my logs. Waited and pulled out and did my 3rd gear pull. Gave it a shift into 4th and let out. No hesitation. It felt flawless! Sent Brad the log. Same 21 spike as before on Rev52 yet it felt clean and super smooth. Boost dropped on shift and resumed with like no spike in 4th, that was very clean. We got ourselves a car here
First cold start back to Rev52. One thing I did on accident while trying to get the adaptive tables of the transmission reset was I reset adaptive tables for all modules…oops. It was successful though. And I reckon it is probably a good thing. Start out all new with no memory.
Back to our favorite restaurant, it’s more than just the food. It’s the people too but it’s also the roads are great the whole way. And it’s about 30 min one way. I thought I’ll bring my laptop and data log a pull on the way home. Letting the car relearn and get OAR reset during the 30 min there.
First we stopped to get gas. I was a min or so behind Stefanie getting gas in her Mercedes and when I pulled up she had some teenagers gawking at her car. She gets a lot of attention in her car. It was great to see. She was smiling and pointed at me when I pulled in. One of them said he saw my car at Wolfsgart.
The drive went great on the way, my old drywall boss saw me and called me. When I arrived at the restaurant I had an Instagram message from a local guy that had saw me and recorded me driving on the way to the restaurant through Essex. Was like **** yeah man thanks for the roller! Added that to my IG story. An old high school friend has text me that he saw me driving through Jericho and the car looked mean! It’s just so crazy the amount of attention in this car. It’s seldom on the street but gets seen so much.
After dinner I got ready with the laptop and we started driving back. Too much traffic. And one really weird guy in front of me. Going 10 under the speed limit, then brakes hard then floors it. Then he’s all over the road. I kept a distance back from him. And it seems like I get stuck behind people going under the speed limit it’s very annoying. So this guy happens to be going 30 min the exact same way as me. I wanted to pull my hair out expect I don’t have any.
I texted Stefanie follow me. I took a left and jumped on the highway and turned around in my spot, where I do all my logs. Waited and pulled out and did my 3rd gear pull. Gave it a shift into 4th and let out. No hesitation. It felt flawless! Sent Brad the log. Same 21 spike as before on Rev52 yet it felt clean and super smooth. Boost dropped on shift and resumed with like no spike in 4th, that was very clean. We got ourselves a car here
bpd1151
Lurking Around
Love this latest post.
You place the reader as if they were seated right beside you in the passenger seat!
Exciting!
Sent from my SM-S928U using Tapatalk
You place the reader as if they were seated right beside you in the passenger seat!
Exciting!
Sent from my SM-S928U using Tapatalk
802SHO
Platform Myth Predator: Boost > VE, MBT, Cams
Brad is on board to dial in 93 and we will target 20 psi but will need to use some throttle control which is Ford’s preferred method anyway of controlling boost control. Patiently waiting for the next revision.
Meanwhile I found my alignment gremlin. Something I started 3/4 of the way and never torqued down. My rear subframe bolts. Pretty wild and reckless to not remember to torque down. My thrust angle changing while driving. Must be what it was.
Let me explain. When I started installing fender flares I became aware of my thrust angle being off. One flare fit better on one side than the other in the rear. I measured tire to body both sides and one side was closer, one side was farther away. About 1/2” difference. Idk what that was.
Fast forward removing the rear subframe I wanted to get this aligned better using tires for reference. I hand tighten all 4 bolts and wanted to check alignment of my tires before torquing down. I never torqued them down.
I made a bunch of changes to my alignment and even after paying for an alignment it still was weird. Can change while driving and was able to handle it but it was slightly wandering for sure. I thought my steering rack to column bolt maybe was loose? I did remove and install the rack.
Well I used the alignment I paid for assuming at least they set the rear lateral links correctly. I did the string method and found I was slightly toe out in the front. That should be toe in. And to do with the string method you basically run a string attached to a fixed object behind rear tires to in front of the front tires middle of the wheels and set your string tight and make sure you get the same measurement front and back of the rear wheel. Then you can take measurements off the front wheels and determine if you’re toe in or out. On a tap measure, toe in 1/8” is perfect.
I reset my front toe in and had the best alignment so far with the car. And I felt it shift when I did a 3rd gear pull. Drive home steering wheel slightly to the left. Thought it was the rack to column bolt. It wasn’t. But I fully removed the bolt and added some blue thread locker to it and torqued it down hard. I then decided to reset my rack in forscan. I guess it’s possible bc I removed it and plugged it back in I still needed to reset it. I reset it.
About to do the string method again and set my steering wheel straight and got it up on the lift. Then it popped into my head….the rear subframe bolts? I took my 1/2 impact and wasn’t I able to tighten all 4. So they were loose this whole time. Thrust angle changing while driving.
So rack is reset, rack to column bolt is super tight, rear subframe is actually torqued down and tire to body measurements are perfect side to side for the rear. I only had to toe in the passenger side. I think my alignment is finally good to go. I’ll retorque down my front subframe bolts and spend some time checking all my bolts. At least I’ve corrected a major issue now before multi gear pulls. Embarrassing and a little scary….but I corrected myself in time. Issues of a DIY’er.
Meanwhile I found my alignment gremlin. Something I started 3/4 of the way and never torqued down. My rear subframe bolts. Pretty wild and reckless to not remember to torque down. My thrust angle changing while driving. Must be what it was.
Let me explain. When I started installing fender flares I became aware of my thrust angle being off. One flare fit better on one side than the other in the rear. I measured tire to body both sides and one side was closer, one side was farther away. About 1/2” difference. Idk what that was.
Fast forward removing the rear subframe I wanted to get this aligned better using tires for reference. I hand tighten all 4 bolts and wanted to check alignment of my tires before torquing down. I never torqued them down.
I made a bunch of changes to my alignment and even after paying for an alignment it still was weird. Can change while driving and was able to handle it but it was slightly wandering for sure. I thought my steering rack to column bolt maybe was loose? I did remove and install the rack.
Well I used the alignment I paid for assuming at least they set the rear lateral links correctly. I did the string method and found I was slightly toe out in the front. That should be toe in. And to do with the string method you basically run a string attached to a fixed object behind rear tires to in front of the front tires middle of the wheels and set your string tight and make sure you get the same measurement front and back of the rear wheel. Then you can take measurements off the front wheels and determine if you’re toe in or out. On a tap measure, toe in 1/8” is perfect.
I reset my front toe in and had the best alignment so far with the car. And I felt it shift when I did a 3rd gear pull. Drive home steering wheel slightly to the left. Thought it was the rack to column bolt. It wasn’t. But I fully removed the bolt and added some blue thread locker to it and torqued it down hard. I then decided to reset my rack in forscan. I guess it’s possible bc I removed it and plugged it back in I still needed to reset it. I reset it.
About to do the string method again and set my steering wheel straight and got it up on the lift. Then it popped into my head….the rear subframe bolts? I took my 1/2 impact and wasn’t I able to tighten all 4. So they were loose this whole time. Thrust angle changing while driving.
So rack is reset, rack to column bolt is super tight, rear subframe is actually torqued down and tire to body measurements are perfect side to side for the rear. I only had to toe in the passenger side. I think my alignment is finally good to go. I’ll retorque down my front subframe bolts and spend some time checking all my bolts. At least I’ve corrected a major issue now before multi gear pulls. Embarrassing and a little scary….but I corrected myself in time. Issues of a DIY’er.
802SHO
Platform Myth Predator: Boost > VE, MBT, Cams
When I installed the rear subframe it was some time before I had everything reinstalled so I didn’t want to torque it down until it was all back on the car and I got side tracked. Hand tight I knew was ok but the torque specs are super high and it needed that later. That desire to make sure it was aligned properly and had no choice but to do it later is where it got lost in the excitement of starting it for the first time last year. 
the slow but steady has been your friend so far
802SHO
Platform Myth Predator: Boost > VE, MBT, Cams
I want to go rip around so bad. But I know that won’t do the car any good until it’s declared ready by Brad. A lot of discipline to stick to the plan but it’s easier knowing I’ll get the best results if I remain patient
802SHO
Platform Myth Predator: Boost > VE, MBT, Cams
Im dying to do a hard launch and 1/4 test.
I bet, I know I cant wait.
802SHO
Platform Myth Predator: Boost > VE, MBT, Cams
It’s like a workout. You warm up and first couple sets of an exercise are light. Then you are safe to get after it. I’ve seen the BlueTurd blow up 2 billet blocks bc he straps it to a dyno and cranks it up without even knowing if he reach his goal with less power. Block #2 was stock crank let out. But with methonal for fuel and wanting 3-400hp more than the last failure…God bless him.
Not me. There’s a process to getting the most out of your setup and it doesn’t involve walking into a gym with your muscles cold and hitting your 1 rep max…which may be more of a max than you need to win your competition. lol
Not me. There’s a process to getting the most out of your setup and it doesn’t involve walking into a gym with your muscles cold and hitting your 1 rep max…which may be more of a max than you need to win your competition. lol
