Have a couple questions regarding the 60K service. First off I have a 93 ATX with 84,000 miles. I have heard many different opinions outside of this forum on what is needed and not needed. I really do not want to skip any corners nor am I rich, so what are absolute essentials, as well as things that might as well get done while everything is taken apart? I figure timing belt, plugs, wires, valve cover seals and plug well seals. I'm sure there are more items I am missing? Give me some recommendations with 1) money not an issue and 2) cost/mileage considered?
60K Essentials...
- Thread starter shonewb
- Start date
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SHObill
'The Collector'
If its not broke don't fix it!
Really, a frt 60K is only done when a part fails, usually the WP.
An basic upper 60K really its only done, again, when a part fails & usually its VC gaskets.
But changing plugs & wires will help, if they are bad.
Also a good thermostat & O2's & clean(good)MAF & throttle body & good TPS will help. Also I have found a good clean GROUND SYSTEM helps in driveability!
Really, a frt 60K is only done when a part fails, usually the WP.
An basic upper 60K really its only done, again, when a part fails & usually its VC gaskets.
But changing plugs & wires will help, if they are bad.
Also a good thermostat & O2's & clean(good)MAF & throttle body & good TPS will help. Also I have found a good clean GROUND SYSTEM helps in driveability!
I just ordered some plugs, wires and a thermostat. So I got that part covered. I have heard the O2's are a good thing to change so that will be next. I don't think I am having any issues to warrant anything beyond the basics. It just seems the general consensus is to do it all or else something bad may happen. As a new SHO owner it kind of has me freaked out. Are you saying it isn't absolutely necessary to do the timing,valve/shims,water pump etc...if i'm not habving any issues out of car? Truth be known it seems to run perfect other then there is oil on top of the spark plugs? I just don't want to spend a fortune right now if I don't have to. I will if needed though?
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JRA2000TL
The Complainer
You have a low mileage ATX so rod bearings shouldn't be an issue. If the engine runs fine and doesn't have any tapping sounds or oil in the plug wells, you can put off the top 60k. You'll do a front 60k when your car suddenly starts cutting off at random. This means your water pump leaks onto the crankshaft position sensor. That's when you tear off the front of the engine and replace that. The SHO engine is non-interference so you don't have to worry about bending valves if the timing belt breaks.
Routine/preventative maintenance is always good if you can do it. It sounds like your car is fine so don't mess with it. I'd worry more about that transmission going out than anything. That's a $2200 rebuild. Ask me how I know. The AX4S tranny is crap, just like the crap tranny that Acura put in my TL; it just died on me Sunday. I'm about ready to convert to driving all MTX cars from now on. Clutches are cheaper.
Routine/preventative maintenance is always good if you can do it. It sounds like your car is fine so don't mess with it. I'd worry more about that transmission going out than anything. That's a $2200 rebuild. Ask me how I know. The AX4S tranny is crap, just like the crap tranny that Acura put in my TL; it just died on me Sunday. I'm about ready to convert to driving all MTX cars from now on. Clutches are cheaper.
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I do have oil in the plug wells so i'm assuming I should get some valve cover seals and plug well seals to fix this? Other then this it runs like a dream. I have completely flushed the transmission as well as filter change and used full syn fluid. Shifts perfect as far as I can tell.
JRA2000TL
The Complainer
Yes you need valve cover gaskets and they come with the spark plug seals. They're about 80 bucks for a set, kind of expensive. You can get Fel-Pro or whatever. I bought mine from RockAuto, I think.
Valve cover gaskets aren't an emergency fix but should be done when you get a chance. The rears are a PITA. Set aside a day or a weekend, remove the hood (4 bolts) and get a helper. It makes life alot easier. There's a big wiring harness on the backside along the firewall that makes getting the rear valve cover off a pain.
Valve cover gaskets aren't an emergency fix but should be done when you get a chance. The rears are a PITA. Set aside a day or a weekend, remove the hood (4 bolts) and get a helper. It makes life alot easier. There's a big wiring harness on the backside along the firewall that makes getting the rear valve cover off a pain.
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Huntervf
Bored now
Some people tend to go overboard on the 60k stuff. I've had 9 of these cars over 10 years so let me impart this advice: If you have oil in the plug wells and no other problems, do just the "top 60k" and don't worry about the rest. Top 60k includes new plugs and plug wires, valve cover gaskets and plug well seals. That's it.
The valve lash is also part of a traditional top 60k, but you need some specialized tools for the job. If you want, you can check the valve lash with a feeler gauge while the cam covers are off, but honesty, at 84,000 miles I wouldn't be the least bit concerned about the lash. Most SHOs never get such an adjustment in 200,000 miles and still run fine.
While the intake is off the car, it's also advisable to get it all nice and cleaned out inside. I prefer about 3 cans of Berrymans B-12 chemtool, just spray it into the snakes of the intake while its off the car and let it swish around for a minute or so.
The timing belt on the automatic isn't due for a change until 100,000 miles, so if you're only at 84k, don't worry about it! Aside from that, this is a non-interference engine, so should the belt break, it won't hurt anything but the belt. The timing belt/water pump/CPS stuff that makes up the "side 60k" is a completely different section--and much harder to do IMO--than a top 60k. The only thing on that list with a definite lifespan is the timing belt, and you still have a ways to go on that. As for the water pump, is it leaking? If not, don't worry about it. Is the car stalling? If not, then don't worry about the CPS.
And whatever you do, don't let the rod bearing police scare you. You do NOT need to change rod bearings at 84k, and I'm not sure I'd even worry about them at 184k unless I was getting a low oil pressure light at idle or some tapping down low. They won't tell you this, but most of the guys who spun bearings are either a.) quite modded, or b.) out racing every other day. Do regular oil changes, don't use some super lightweight synthetic (I can't recommend Castrol GTX 10w30 enough), and make sure your oil level stays high, and you shouldn't have to worry about rod bearings for at least another 100,000 miles.
Never heard of 02 sensors being part of a 60k, or "just good practice" to change. :laugh_ti: They're easy to change, and when they're going bad you'll get a check engine light. If you don't have a check engine light, then don't worry about it, unless you want to spend $100 for no good reason.
Bottom line--these cars aren't as maintenance heavy as some people make them out to be. If it's running and driving fine but has some oil in the plug wells, just do the plugs, wires, and your valve cover/plug well gaskets. The oil will shorten the life of the wires, and the plugs/wires have a recommended lifespan of 60,000 miles anyway.
The valve lash is also part of a traditional top 60k, but you need some specialized tools for the job. If you want, you can check the valve lash with a feeler gauge while the cam covers are off, but honesty, at 84,000 miles I wouldn't be the least bit concerned about the lash. Most SHOs never get such an adjustment in 200,000 miles and still run fine.
While the intake is off the car, it's also advisable to get it all nice and cleaned out inside. I prefer about 3 cans of Berrymans B-12 chemtool, just spray it into the snakes of the intake while its off the car and let it swish around for a minute or so.
The timing belt on the automatic isn't due for a change until 100,000 miles, so if you're only at 84k, don't worry about it! Aside from that, this is a non-interference engine, so should the belt break, it won't hurt anything but the belt. The timing belt/water pump/CPS stuff that makes up the "side 60k" is a completely different section--and much harder to do IMO--than a top 60k. The only thing on that list with a definite lifespan is the timing belt, and you still have a ways to go on that. As for the water pump, is it leaking? If not, don't worry about it. Is the car stalling? If not, then don't worry about the CPS.
And whatever you do, don't let the rod bearing police scare you. You do NOT need to change rod bearings at 84k, and I'm not sure I'd even worry about them at 184k unless I was getting a low oil pressure light at idle or some tapping down low. They won't tell you this, but most of the guys who spun bearings are either a.) quite modded, or b.) out racing every other day. Do regular oil changes, don't use some super lightweight synthetic (I can't recommend Castrol GTX 10w30 enough), and make sure your oil level stays high, and you shouldn't have to worry about rod bearings for at least another 100,000 miles.
Never heard of 02 sensors being part of a 60k, or "just good practice" to change. :laugh_ti: They're easy to change, and when they're going bad you'll get a check engine light. If you don't have a check engine light, then don't worry about it, unless you want to spend $100 for no good reason.
Bottom line--these cars aren't as maintenance heavy as some people make them out to be. If it's running and driving fine but has some oil in the plug wells, just do the plugs, wires, and your valve cover/plug well gaskets. The oil will shorten the life of the wires, and the plugs/wires have a recommended lifespan of 60,000 miles anyway.
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