3.2l mtx low oil pressure?

[SHOtime2511]

I would not grind down the crankshaft.

 

[luigisho]

Get another motor.

 

[sperold]

Check the replacement bearings for this engine, see what sizes they come in.
A lot of engines have a .002 oversized bearing (for a .002 polish), and then they go .010, .020 and .030 oversize.
It has been reported on this forum that the cranks are case hardened and if you go too deep, you break throught this case into softer metal.
If you turn the crank, go with the smallest oversize possible to avoid this possibility.

 

[HotRodKid]

if your pulling the crankshaft, why not just get a undamaged used one and be done with it ?

 

[SHOtime2511]

^ what he said.

 

[rick-ng]

doubt that,I have never heard of main bearings failing on these cars.

Niether did I until it happened to me!
I guess it was the Main bearings after all! you can't say you've never heard of them going bad now!

 

[SHOtime2511]

very true,this is the first I have heard of.

 

[milestoldyouso2]

i think im actually going to use my original crank as is with just new bearings, the rod journals are not scoured at all and were measured for out of round and appear to be perfect, the mains are also smooth except for a few paper thin lines through the surface, but they still measure out to spec and the few fine grooves should just bridge over the bearings. i have rebuild plenty of engines with worse bearing surfaces than this and never had a problems with just installing new stock clearance bearings onto them, and since these journals still measure out to spec there should be no problem with holding the oil pressure or clearance issues. the bearings appeared to take the damage and not the crankshaft, i also went to the junkyard today to see about the 3.0l 89 sho engine i have been taking parts from and that crankshaft is even more worn than mine, i think i will be fine with what i got

 

[rick-ng]

When mine went bad it was like big pieces just flaked off of them!

 

[moobypets]

well im doing my bearing monday rod one and i just hope i dont have bad luck aagain

 

[93rev2sev]

its not bad luck when you use the same parts that failed last. If you are trying to save the labor involved in an engine pull, You can change the crank with the engine in the car if you pull the trans/clutch/flywheel/rear seal carrier. This would allow you to inspect and freshen up the driveline and subframe stuff, too.

I have a crank if you want. I think it's in fine shape and you can have it for the cost of shipping + about $20 worth of time and effort packaging it well.

I would definitely be looking for a new engine, though. You never know if an oil galley or passage has a build up of gritty steel shavings that are ready to break loose and destroy your next set of bearings or the crank.

 

[moobypets]

ill be removing bearing and psuhing some air into those oil passage to be sure nothing is stuck there but as off yet no metal shaving in the oil

 

[milestoldyouso2]

back onto this subject if anyone is interested, the lower end of the engine has since been rebuilt new bearings all around and a good used crankshaft, cylinder walls were good and compression didnt change from before the incident, i did pull the valve covers when i was washing the internal of the engine to remove any more contaminants, all looked good, i pulled a couple cam shaft bearing caps to find they were pretty scored up, not having the money for new heads yet... i cleaned and reasembled, i installed a oil pressure gauge, got it all finished and up and running today. with 10-30 oil, a 3.2L pump and a nice warm engine i was getting 4 psi at idle, i also noticed a ticking from up top under the valve cover that was never there, lower end sounds tight and i think all my work is holding up, i drove the car around town for a hour and a half gently and idle oil pressure remained at 4psi, at 2000rpms i would get a reading of 21psi when warm. well here is my concerns, it seems to burn a bit of oil as i can see and smell it from the exhaust, at idle the oil light flickers, and the new ticking noise from the front head, my theroy is that the valve guides are now worn because they are the lowest part in the head so all the crap got in there and took its tool, the worn camshaft bearings is the cause for the flickering oil light at idle since there are 4 cams and all of the bearing caps are scoured on all of them so thats probably a big pressure loss right there at low speeds the pump just cant stay on top of, and the ticking noise from the head.. well with what its been through im really not surprised now. i guess ill just get an entire head assembly from a 3.0l and do the maintnance to them on the work bench and eventually throw them on there, any input would be great guys