White94Atx
POStaurusDRIVER
Does anybody have detailed intsructions on how I can swap my 3.2 intake cams for the bigger 3.0 cams? :wave:
3.2 to 3.0 cam swap instructions.
- Thread starter White94Atx
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
tdoughboy37
Member
The Chilton's manual has good instructions for removal and installation. They are the same for both sets of cam's. Just be sure to line the timing marks correctly, do not over tourque the cam caps or you'll be heli coiling the threads, and pull the shim buckets and remove the tiny spacer underneath it. It is slightly larger in diameter than the valve shims and will create nightmares for you when trying to adjust the valves. Ask me how I know, LOL
White94Atx
POStaurusDRIVER
thanks alot man. thats the first helpfull reply anyones given me on this damn forum
You've only posted 10 times. What do you expect? The Forum Gods to come down and grace you with ultimate knowledge? 
remove intake,remove acc belts, jack passenger side up, remove wheel, remove splash guard, remove dampener pulley, remove timing cover, loosen belt tensioner, remove timing belt, remove both cam sprockets, remove the dust shield behind them, remove cam cover, loosen chain tensioner, remove all cap set them aside in order or take a pic or both, once you start lifting the cam you should be able to take the tensioner off. if i remember correctly you will need to remove that to be able to take the cam out. or else just take the sprocket off. the chain tensioner will still need to be removed for assembly as its a pita to try and put the sprocket on the cam with the tensioner.
how to time the cams. now during dis assembly the cams might rotate left or right, both front and rear bank. not a big deal. if the cam it self (say the exhaust side moves) theirs flat spots on the cam where you can use a wrench or crescent wrench to move it back where it needs to be. DONT USE VICE GRIPS OR CHANNEL LOCKS! that will leave teeth marks on the cam. there will be dots on both the chain sprockets. they'll be on the outer edge near the teeth. they will need to line up with the timing makes on the cam (the holes on the back). they only go on 2 ways wrong and right. pretty hard to screw up. just take a look before you take it apart. if you going to time everything back to TDC (thats what i would do) this is how you line it up. the timing marks will need to be flush with the mating surface of the cam covers. the exhaust cam marks will need to be facing down towards the radiator the intake cam dots towards the intake manifold. looks like this _.. ____ .._ (under dash is the head surface, dots are timing marks). thats basically it for those 2.
put some engine oil on the cam and bearings before install.
the intake cam will need to be tighten down in a 2 step torque sequence. like this,
6 4 12 8 10 2
5 3 11 7 9 1
( 1-2 cap being the rear and 5-6 being the front) torque them to 6-9lbs and then 12-16lbs. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN! you can strip the threads like i did and then you have to heli coil new threads. lot of extra work. and obviously the arrows on the caps point towards the front of the motor. the front cap will need silicone to seal. DO NOT PUT SILICONE IN THE GROVE. that's for the oil to flow. it needs to go on the outside edge of that. for the cam seal i like to put a little film of silicone on the outside but that up to you. after the cam is good and tight and all timed up slap the cam cover back on.
install the dust plate, install the cam gears. line the dots on the gears to the index marks on the dust plate. if the gears are hard to turn you can use one of those rubber strap wrench thingies. line the dot on the crank sprocket with the index mark on the oil pump. install belt. the rest is pie. btw inspect the gaskets on your intake, if they look bad replace them. i had a bad vacuum leak because i was lazy and i though i had the timing wrong because it ran like crap. anyways thats about it. i know some of the stuff i said was obvious but i wanted to be thorough.
how to time the cams. now during dis assembly the cams might rotate left or right, both front and rear bank. not a big deal. if the cam it self (say the exhaust side moves) theirs flat spots on the cam where you can use a wrench or crescent wrench to move it back where it needs to be. DONT USE VICE GRIPS OR CHANNEL LOCKS! that will leave teeth marks on the cam. there will be dots on both the chain sprockets. they'll be on the outer edge near the teeth. they will need to line up with the timing makes on the cam (the holes on the back). they only go on 2 ways wrong and right. pretty hard to screw up. just take a look before you take it apart. if you going to time everything back to TDC (thats what i would do) this is how you line it up. the timing marks will need to be flush with the mating surface of the cam covers. the exhaust cam marks will need to be facing down towards the radiator the intake cam dots towards the intake manifold. looks like this _.. ____ .._ (under dash is the head surface, dots are timing marks). thats basically it for those 2.
put some engine oil on the cam and bearings before install.
the intake cam will need to be tighten down in a 2 step torque sequence. like this,
6 4 12 8 10 2
5 3 11 7 9 1
( 1-2 cap being the rear and 5-6 being the front) torque them to 6-9lbs and then 12-16lbs. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN! you can strip the threads like i did and then you have to heli coil new threads. lot of extra work. and obviously the arrows on the caps point towards the front of the motor. the front cap will need silicone to seal. DO NOT PUT SILICONE IN THE GROVE. that's for the oil to flow. it needs to go on the outside edge of that. for the cam seal i like to put a little film of silicone on the outside but that up to you. after the cam is good and tight and all timed up slap the cam cover back on.
install the dust plate, install the cam gears. line the dots on the gears to the index marks on the dust plate. if the gears are hard to turn you can use one of those rubber strap wrench thingies. line the dot on the crank sprocket with the index mark on the oil pump. install belt. the rest is pie. btw inspect the gaskets on your intake, if they look bad replace them. i had a bad vacuum leak because i was lazy and i though i had the timing wrong because it ran like crap. anyways thats about it. i know some of the stuff i said was obvious but i wanted to be thorough.
Similar threads
