3.2 swap

[Dylan King]

My engines crank is toast. Would it be easyer to just get another 3.2? My engine burns about 2 quarts ervery 1000 miles. I didnt know that intill it was to late. Thats why my crank is toast. So i was thinking that ill just get this 3.2 i found with 84000 miles on it. It had the 60k tune up 10000 miles ago and its only $360 at a ford dealer. Or i might just get the crank regrounded because it cheaper. But if i have to remove the engine to remove the crank i think i will just get the other engine. Can you remove the engine without removeing the tranny? Please let me know what you guys think about my plan. And any info that will help.

 

[AutoSHO]

Swapping the motor will give much better results, although I would be wary of one "60k'd 10,000 miles ago" as a lot of places will say almost anything to sell something.

You can pull the motor without removing the trans, but its not easy. Keep in mind that you ran the rest of the motor low on oil pressure too, not just the crank.

 

[Yamaha V6]

Regrinding the crank may weaken the crank somewhat, especially if you're focusing on cleaning up only one journal. You'll also need custom rod bearings. Have fun finding them.

Disassemble, magnaflux, clean, re-hone, re-ring, replace the crank, re-balance the rotating assembly will probably cost you in the $600-$800 range, but then you essentially have a zero-mile block to work with. You'd also need new head gaskets (set is ~$300), and question / test the oil pump as well.

You can also replace just the crank & bearings, providing there's nothing else wrong, re-ring, re-balance

 

[Devin]

From my experience the engine is near impossible to remove from the tranny when it is in the engine compartment. I spent a good two weeks trying that one. Eventually we just removed the engine by taking out the subframe, but I would never do that again. My advice is to take out the engine and the tranny

 

[revhardSHO]

Yamaha V6:
Regrinding the crank may weaken the crank somewhat, especially if you're focusing on cleaning up only one journal. You'll also need custom rod bearings. Have fun finding them.

Disassemble, magnaflux, clean, re-hone, re-ring, replace the crank, re-balance the rotating assembly will probably cost you in the $600-$800 range, but then you essentially have a zero-mile block to work with. You'd also need new head gaskets (set is ~$300), and question / test the oil pump as well.

You can also replace just the crank & bearings, providing there's nothing else wrong, re-ring, re-balance

napa sells oversized rod bearings up to .003 for the same price

did you get a change to see if you have a titanium fender for me?

 

[Dylan King]

Thanks for all the info guys. I can find the oversized bearings at a machine shop. they can get any part for the engine for me. But i think i will go with the engine swap Because i didnt know regrounding the crank would make it weaker. And the engine i found is comeing from a ford dealer wearhouse. But i think i will still do a 60k tune up on it anyway just to be safe.

 

[Yamaha V6]

Bear in mind, I'm talking from an absolute standpoint - is making a crankshaft that can handle 500hp weaker in one area (say, only able to handle 450hp) a problem in your application? Obviously, not necessarily.

Ease / speed of swap: if you have access to another reasonable mileage affordable 3.2L, that's the route I'd probably take - it's likely going to be cheaper in the long run.

Yes, you remove the entire driveline when working on these cars, MTX or ATX. ATX, you are dropping the whole subframe anyway. MTX, you have a choice. I haven't heard of anyone removing the ATX driveline out from the top; I tried, couldn't figure out how to make it work.

 

[revhardSHO]

Yamaha V6:
Bear in mind, I'm talking from an absolute standpoint - is making a crankshaft that can handle 500hp weaker in one area (say, only able to handle 450hp) a problem in your application? Obviously, not necessarily.

Ease / speed of swap: if you have access to another reasonable mileage affordable 3.2L, that's the route I'd probably take - it's likely going to be cheaper in the long run.

Yes, you remove the entire driveline when working on these cars, MTX or ATX. ATX, you are dropping the whole subframe anyway. MTX, you have a choice. I haven't heard of anyone removing the ATX driveline out from the top; I tried, couldn't figure out how to make it work.

Fred do you have a fender for me???

 

[drivinhard]

I'm not aware of any rod/main bearings for the SHO in .001" .002" and .003" sizes. Only std, .010", .020", and .030"

mark

 

[Dylan King]

As far as i know they come in standard, Oversized- 0.25mm, 0.50mm, and 0.75mm. You cant get the oversized ones from the dealer or any regular autoparts store. The cheapest and best way i know is to find a good machine shop that rebuilds engines. If they cant get a part then it is probally impossible.

 

[Dylan King]

As far as i know they come in standard, Oversized- 0.25mm, 0.50mm, and 0.75mm. You cant get the oversized ones from the dealer or any regular autoparts store. The cheapest and best way i know is to find a good machine shop that rebuilds engines. If they cant get a part then it is probally impossible.