3.2 swap underway - few questions

[firebat45]

Alright, just as an FYI, I have searched all these questions, and have either not been able to find an answer, or found 2 (or more) conflicting answers.

I started my 3.2 swap into my 92 MTX, the 3.2 was from a 93. Pics will be posted tomorrow in case anyone is interested.

Today was engine prepping, got all the ATX accessories off of the block and most of the MTX ones on. Also swapped the MTX oilpan on, did the rod bearings, and stripped the ATX harness off of the engine. We also did the modifications to the head to allow the alternator bracket to fit.

Tomorrow I will be installing the tranny on the engine, and pulling my engine/tranny out of the car. Hopefully I'll have time to swap over the remaining accessories and the wiring harness. Any tips on this would be appreciated, if there's anything I should watch out for.

Alright, my questions:

Can I keep the ATX oil pump? I've read several different posts saying that you need to swap it, and several others that say they have kept it. It appears to fit fine, just want to make sure it's all good.

Can I keep the ATX timing belt tensioner? Again, it seems to fit so far. I think I found one post that said he had kept it, and several that said you have to use the manual one. Also, do I install the timing belt according to MTX or ATX instructions? Does the tensioner make a difference to that?

What's the best way to pull/install the engine/tranny as a unit? I was planning on a subframe drop, but today I read that pulling it from the top is easiest. I've pulled 2 engines from the top, but both were junkyard cars we didn't care about, so a lot of hose cutting and ABS line trashing took place in those.

I don't have a lift, but I do have a chain hoist installed in the ceiling of the garage.

 

[Sho Amo]

yes you can keep the 3.2 oil pump but there will be a gap in the timing belt cover which may let oil, water, dirt, etc in there where your timing belt is. I used the 3.2 pump.

No, you cannot use the atx tensioner with the 3.0l accessories with mtx motor mounts. you will need to use two nuts on the stud from the 3.0 to get it to come off and mount it on the 3.2

if you have a garage i would use that house to pull the body of the car away from the motor/subframe. i used a crane to pull the motor/trans together out of the top with the hood off but it was a pain in the ass.

use the 3.0 marks on the timing belt because you are using the 3.0 tensioner

 

[Sho Amo]

this was a big help to me in my swap

http://www.shotimes.com/php-bin/mod...e=article&mode=thread&order=0&thold=0&sid=167

 

[firebat45]

Thanks! This engine is going in without a timing cover anyway, I kind of like the look of the bare cam sprockets. I'm not too worried about small things getting in that area, with no cover at all they won't be caught and held in there. Other cars run fine without covers, so it shouldn't be a problem.

I guess I'll swap the tensioner over. I've mostly been using that article at SHOtimes too, but it says I can't use the oil pump, and I can. That's why I was wondering about the tensioner too.

 

[Sho Amo]

are you going to run a backing plate?

 

[Phoenix]

Most of your questions can be answered here : http://www.quebecspeed.com/pics/ATXtoMTX.doc

You need office word to see this properly with all the pics.

Its a ATX to MTX swap , but still , engine wise it should answer all your questions.

I find it easier from the bottom to remove the engine , but again , my setup has no AC lines what so ever. You need the intake removed , the calipers (and attach them to the body) , the stuts unbolted from the top , Hoses/connectors in the way , Throttle cable/clutch...I think thats it...

For the method , I tack'd a metal brace under the car and lift with a good car jack with spacers. Might not be the best method , but its what I used. Then you can drop it on a dolley and move the unit around.

 

[firstgen89sho]

If I was living in Edmonton, I would give you a hand, I have done all my SHO engines from the top, it can get a little tight, getting by the line running from the Brake Reservoir down to the ABS module, other than that, it was straight up and out.

 

[firebat45]

Phoenix, many many thanks for that link. I will be dropping the subframe, not pulling it from the top. I don't have a welder either to tack the brace in, but I might try it with some 2x10s, it looks doable.

I'm also planning on stripping all the AC crap out when the engine is out, depends how time goes and how accessible it is with the engine out. It's only warm a few months of the year here anyway, and I'm the kind of guy who likes driving with the windows down and the sunroof up. More room in the engine bay is a big plus too!

 

[Phoenix]

Oh I forgot in my post to add that you must remove the Y pipe and the rod shifter , or at least disconect them.

 

[Kens1992mtxSHO]

Oh I forgot in my post to add that you must remove the Y pipe and the rod shifter , or at least disconect them.

lol... a small but very important step.

 

[firebat45]

Oh I forgot in my post to add that you must remove the Y pipe and the rod shifter , or at least disconect them.

Don't worry, I already had them disconnected. I just need to figure out how to disconnect the steering u-joint at the rack, and I'm ready to start seperating the subframe.

 

[K-Dawg]

It's a 12 or 13mm bolt I believe. I think it's easiest to access it by getting under the dash and removing the boots.

 

[Phoenix]

I donno how many ways there is , but I did mine with the intake removed and my knees on the rad support , removing the bolt inside the engine bay , the one closest to the steering rack.

 

[rubydist]

I think the way to do it is to remove the bolt in the engine bay, so you don't have to figure out how to get the boots loose and refastened later. Its also accessible from the bottom (although challenging) after you have dropped the subframe a few inches.

 

[bigblock]

i just did a 3.2 swap, in fact im finishing it up today. i used all 3.0 accessories, brackets,oil pan, and oil pump. for the coil pack i just used the 3.2 bracket. i heard that 3.0 wires wont fit with the 3.2 bracket but for some reason mine did?? i dropped mine with the sub frame. im doing the 96 brake upgrade so all that stuff needed to come off anyway. for a sub frame drop you need to unhook the rack and 2 lines, spindles, rod shifter, y-pipe, a/c lines, and all the wires up top. take the intake off too. i've seen some swaps where they keep the struts on the subframe but i just kept them on the car. i'll get a thread and some pics up later.

 

[firebat45]

Well, got the subframe out last night, and a bunch of parts swapped over. I ended up doing the steering u-joint from the wheelwell, it was a pain, but easier than through the firewall from inside for us.

Todays goal: Get the subframe ready to go back in, and if time permits, get it placed in the car. Hooking it up will be tomorrow's job.

 

[firstgen89sho]

To install the steering u-joint, when I did an engine swap by dropping the subframe, it was way easier inside the vehicle, undo the 4 nuts around the steering column boot, and pull it up, I remember trying to re-align the steering column u-joint to the steering column, and it was a PITA, removed the steering column boot and 2 seconds later, I had the shaft on and the bolt in... food for thought..... and make sure that, that pinch bolt is tight and has loctite on it....... again food for thought....