hey, i just bought a 93 atx with 106K on the clock and have a problem with it.When i bought it a guy that worked on it told me that the car had a bad computer. Well when i towed the car home i got a new battery and cranked it couple of times and somehow it started with a little help of "starting fluid" b/c my guess was the fuel pump. So i got it running for couple of secs and it died , after that no start but cranks fine. Next day i cranked it again and it started with a little trouble i had it holding to about 2500rpm for a min or so and left it idling for another 5min. and it died, no start after that. Then again the next day i start it and had it running for about 30 min. idles fine maybe a little rugh but not bad and then i shut it off , after that no start again. I took the plugs out and sure enough the engine was flooded thats why i can't get the start afterwards, but if i wait it will start not instantly but after a little of cranking it starts. I know that every time now when i don't get the start the first time i crank it it gets flooded. Well i got new plugs in it and a new fuel filter but that is it . The check enigne light works fine and it is not ON . I am thinking about a sensor or could it be the "computer". Please if anyone knows anything about it or has any suggestions everything would be appriciated. I am stuck and have no idea what to do next. Thanks to everyone in advance.
3.2 engine flooded
- Thread starter 92yamaha
- Start date
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gbizzle27
New Member
Run the codes on the engine and see what pops up. Then we can get a better diagnosis.
yeah i am going to do the reading again, i did it when i got the car and i wasn't ready so it gave me a code with a couple of 6 6 and maybe a 2, i guess i didn't count it right so i got confused . But the next time i did it it gave just the 111 the pass code. that was a couple of days back. Now that the car has been running for more than 30 min. it might give me something else so i am doing it tonight. I'll let you know as i soon as i get them. thanks
P.s. the check engine light is not ON
P.s. the check engine light is not ON
ok, here is what i just did. i started the car and had it running for about 5 min until it warmed up, then i turned it off and pulled the codes and it just gave me 111 code. that was on KOEO. Then i tried to start the car to get the KOER codes but no luck, it didn't start, it got flooded again. I don't know what the deal is, i am going to run the codes again tomorrow i bet i'll be able to get a start. thanks
99problems
New Member
check to make sure the car doesnt have a chip in it my 95 did the same thing
i replaced the fuel pump no luck i pulled the chip out and it was like nothing ever happened
i replaced the fuel pump no luck i pulled the chip out and it was like nothing ever happened
hey are you talking about a performance chip, i wouldn't say this car has one but it is worth a try. I am not sure where to look for it, will it be inside the computer like on some other cars or does the sho have a diff. place for it. thanks for the suggestion
projectSHO89
SHOless In St L
Based on your descriptions, "codes" are not going to be useful at this time. Leave that for some other time or symptom.
Your problem has to do with either fuel or air delivery.
Try cracking the throttle 1/4 way while starting. If it starts and runs with the throttle cracked, you have a bad (sticking) IAC valve. Very common. A stuck IAC valve will cause the same symptoms as flooding. Hopefully, you know the correct owner's manual procedure for clearing a flooded FI engine (hold throttle to floor while cranking to clear engine).
If it's not air, then it's fuel. You will really need a fuel pressure guage to accurately test the system. About $30.
You might have a fuel pump not running well (low pressure), a leaky injector, a leaking fuel pressure regulator diaphragm (pull the vacuum line and check for fuel in it), or a fuel pump line check valve. Check the vacuum line first. Then check and make certain the pump runs for 1-2 seconds at key-on to make certain the pump is getting power. Just listen for the humming noise from the fuel tank.
To check for the presence of a "chip", empty the glovebox, squeeze the sides together so it flips down, then look up to the firewall for the computer. The add-on chips plug into it and sometimes come loose, causing the computer to go stupid. If you have one, just remove it until the car is fixed.
Steve
Your problem has to do with either fuel or air delivery.
Try cracking the throttle 1/4 way while starting. If it starts and runs with the throttle cracked, you have a bad (sticking) IAC valve. Very common. A stuck IAC valve will cause the same symptoms as flooding. Hopefully, you know the correct owner's manual procedure for clearing a flooded FI engine (hold throttle to floor while cranking to clear engine).
If it's not air, then it's fuel. You will really need a fuel pressure guage to accurately test the system. About $30.
You might have a fuel pump not running well (low pressure), a leaky injector, a leaking fuel pressure regulator diaphragm (pull the vacuum line and check for fuel in it), or a fuel pump line check valve. Check the vacuum line first. Then check and make certain the pump runs for 1-2 seconds at key-on to make certain the pump is getting power. Just listen for the humming noise from the fuel tank.
To check for the presence of a "chip", empty the glovebox, squeeze the sides together so it flips down, then look up to the firewall for the computer. The add-on chips plug into it and sometimes come loose, causing the computer to go stupid. If you have one, just remove it until the car is fixed.
Steve
I know the fuel pump comes on the sound is pretty strong , and even when i do the codes it comes on and like you said about 2 sec. noise. But i am not sure about the fuel pressure i am going to check that, only that i have never done it so i am not sure what it should be, or the proper procidure to do it. If some one could give me more info on that i would really appriciate. I am getting ready to try the 1/4 throttle and wot on starting know and get back to you asap. I know that the car will start almost every time now if i wait overnight, but the attempts after that are not doing anything it seems like it will crank forever without a start. Thanks for the tip Steve and i'll get you the update in a little bit. thanks
here is what happend, usually the car starts without throttle when i wait over night, but i gave it about 1/4 of throtle this morning like steve suggested and did not get a start. Then i did the wot and it started, so i left it running for about 20 min. and it was idling fine within the temperature range. After that i decided to drive it a little for the first time since i bought it and the car ran fine little different than my 94 sho as far as gear shift, this one changed gears before 4000 rpm even thought i gave it more gas which felt i little strange compared to my 94 but i guess that was not i big deal. So I take it back to the garage after the 5 min ride and turn it off. Within 5 sec. i tried to start it without throttle and no start, then 1/4 and no start, and then wot for about 10 sec. cranking and no start. I've read that ECT sensor the engine coolant temp, has something to do with starting the car and running, and in couple of threads people mantioned that they had the same problem and fixed it with a ECT. Could that be the case. Well there it is, thats what happened this morning i'll try to get more data later and see what it will do, also i soon as i find the fuel pressure specs and procidure i'll do that too. So, please people help if you know anything about this, any info would be aprriaciated. thanks to every one who tried to help.
Also maybe i should mantion this , when i was driving the car the temp gauge went up a little almost touched the N letter which is not the case in my other cars especially at 40F outside temp.
Also maybe i should mantion this , when i was driving the car the temp gauge went up a little almost touched the N letter which is not the case in my other cars especially at 40F outside temp.
93superSHO
Thats a Taurus?
The ECT sensor will give you a hard start/no start problem. There is a FORD TSB on these engines with a flooding problem( factory starters are 9-tooth gear and don't turn the engine over fast enough causing it to flood) the remedy is a updated 12-tooth gear. See if it looks at all like it has been replaced.
The reason for your '93 shifts different than your '94 is the computer itself. 1993 cars had a H3ZE and '94-'95 had D4U1. Ford had tranny problems with the '93 cars due to the fact the tranny program was junk(and other things) The D4U1 had an improved program the had quicker, firmer shifting. I would get a D4U1 and install it in your 1993. I am not trying to scare you on the '93, I have seen them myself go 160,000+ miles on the orig. tranny.
As far as the engine temp. these engines generally run cool. All of my SHO's normally stay right around L or A. Are you sure you didn't mean L. N is pretty hot for a SHO(in my experience) If it is running that hot you should hear the fan turn on at an idle, if it don't come on replace the ECT. I have seen ECT failure and NO check engine light. Hope this helps.
:corn:
The reason for your '93 shifts different than your '94 is the computer itself. 1993 cars had a H3ZE and '94-'95 had D4U1. Ford had tranny problems with the '93 cars due to the fact the tranny program was junk(and other things) The D4U1 had an improved program the had quicker, firmer shifting. I would get a D4U1 and install it in your 1993. I am not trying to scare you on the '93, I have seen them myself go 160,000+ miles on the orig. tranny.
As far as the engine temp. these engines generally run cool. All of my SHO's normally stay right around L or A. Are you sure you didn't mean L. N is pretty hot for a SHO(in my experience) If it is running that hot you should hear the fan turn on at an idle, if it don't come on replace the ECT. I have seen ECT failure and NO check engine light. Hope this helps.
:corn:yeah i can believe you about the 93 tranny b/c a friend of mine has a 93 with 135K and 2 new transmissions. And yeah I got 2 other sho's 92 mtx and the 94 atx and both of them are about L or A temp. but this one go all the way up almost to N, but the fan does come on while idling and it had a lower temp when idling. I am not sure what the deal is , the fan works fine and the is enough coolant in the system, and if it was the water pump i guess it would get hot even when i had it idling for about 30 min. But thanks for the info. i am going to check the starter like you said. thanks
91whiteshoplus
New Member
projectSHO89 said:
THANK YOU steve!! Just finished doing the valve lash and resealing the spark plug wells. I flushed B12 chemtool to clean out the cylinders while I was in thereand couldnt restart it for anything... then I found your message and it worked like a charm.
93superSHO
Thats a Taurus?
Fuel pressure should be right at 39psi primed(KOEO) at idle it should be 35-42psi. To check the fuel pressure regulator with the gauge installed and car running pull the vaccum line off the regulator and the pressure should shoot up about 10psi from where it was(if it doesn't go up 10psi you have a faulty fpr). If the pressure at idle is 35psi or just below you have a weak pump, FYI.
The gauge hooks up to the schrader valve on the fuel rail(looks like a valve stem for a tire)
The gauge hooks up to the schrader valve on the fuel rail(looks like a valve stem for a tire)
hey guys, i still didn't check the fuel pressure , didn't get a gauge yet but here is what i got. I started the car today and drove it for about 2min. and the check engine light came on, i turned the car around and was on the way back home and went off again. I checked the codes again and this time it gave me
117- ect
452- vehicle speed sensor
I was just thinking if anyone had the same problem with the same codes i would be very thankfull for any help.
I am going to get the fuel pressure tested as soon as i get a guage and maybe an ect sensor at the same time. IF that doesn't do anything i just might sell it.
117- ect
452- vehicle speed sensor
I was just thinking if anyone had the same problem with the same codes i would be very thankfull for any help.
I am going to get the fuel pressure tested as soon as i get a guage and maybe an ect sensor at the same time. IF that doesn't do anything i just might sell it.
LeddZepp8687
The Keg Rider
92yamaha said:
Naww dont sell it, just put a little time into it. Replace some coolant stuff, T-Stat and ECT, get a fuel pressure gauge and hook it up to the test valve on the fuel rail, you should be seeing about 40 PSI at idle IIRC and then pull that vaccum line off the FPR and you should see 45 PSI.
Also if you want, Ive got a spare working D4U1, LMK if you want it, Ill sell it to you cheap
Here is what happend, i got the fuel gauge and while enigne off ,ignition on, it only gave me about 10 psi but after couple of ignition OFF/ON turns it went up to almost 40 psi. I checked my other sho's and they acted almost the same only while i was taking the gauge off i had about 5 oz of gas from the gauge and that happend on both running sho's but on the 93 it did not give me anything.
When i push the button to depressurise the gauge(before removing) it does not give me any fuel, and like i said on the other cars about 5 oz each.
Also i noticed that the plugs are wet when i take them out after "no start" cranking. They look to me like they have some oil too on them , and the valve cover gaskets are not leaking.
I could not start the car so I did not get a fuel pressure reading while running.
It is driving me crazy, I am thinking about selling it.
When i push the button to depressurise the gauge(before removing) it does not give me any fuel, and like i said on the other cars about 5 oz each.
Also i noticed that the plugs are wet when i take them out after "no start" cranking. They look to me like they have some oil too on them , and the valve cover gaskets are not leaking.
I could not start the car so I did not get a fuel pressure reading while running.
It is driving me crazy, I am thinking about selling it.
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