3.0 conversion wiring

[turner]

I got a 3.0 sho that I'm trying to wire up to run In a boat,I have it mounted,intake flipped 180°,the wiring harness connected and powered up,I have power everywhere other forums have said I need it like pin 1,37,57 of the PCM. Red wires on coil pack,MAF,DIS ete all have 12v power,All grounds seem to be connected but when I turn over the engine I have no spark I do have a few wires left over that aren't hooked up but I figured they might have just went to guage cluster or something,is there some weird safety switch or wire that I'm forgetting about....what am I missing?.. Any help is greatly appreciated!!

 

[Off Road SHO]

Kind of hard to tell from here, I can't quite see what you have left over. Anything important?

 

[turner]

Quite a few wires just going off of the 16 pin grey plug that feeds the harness.The wires I got are
red/blue
grey/red
black/white
pink/black
tan/yellow
white/red
tan/red
Blue/black
Black /purple
White /pink

Is there a wiring diagram that shows this plug?

 

[turner]

Also..Pink/light pink I think

 

[Off Road SHO]

There is a wiring diagram, but I don't have it in PDF form.

Also, pin 1 of the PCM (yellow I believe) should be hot at all times. In other words, hooked to positive post of battery (Through a fuse of course) so that the Computer's Keep Alive Memory (KAM) is always ON.

Pins 20, 40 and 60, the last pin in each row, should be bonded together and conneted to the negative post of the battery. The block ground that is in the "V" of the engine also needs to be grounded.

The white with Pink has something to do with the fuel pump I think. Don't have my EVTM's in front of me.

Tom

 

[shomethe$$$]

Quite a few wires just going off of the 16 pin grey plug that feeds the harness.The wires I got are
red/blue
grey/red
black/white
pink/black
tan/yellow
white/red
tan/red
Blue/black
Black /purple
White /pink

Is there a wiring diagram that shows this plug?

Here are my notes,

#1 black/pink fuel pump
#2 white/red oil pressure bulb to cluster pin A8
#3 tan/yellow RPM gauge to cluster A7
#4 purple/orange 10amp fuse to power O2's and backup switch
#5 red/white temp gauge, rear of engine, to cluster A12
#6 tan/red MIL light to cluster B10
#7 gray/red return signal from clutch switch, see #12 below
#8 white/pink cruise control servo ECU pin #35
#9 light blue/black from cruise control switch to ECU #28
#10 red/green return from brake switch to ECU pin #5, brake switch input to 15amp fuse, output red/green to ECU#5
#11 orange return from cruise switch to ECU #39
#12 purple/yellow from ECU #30 to clutch switch input, output is #7 above, so #7 and #12 should be connected unless you have the clutch switch
#13 red/light blue starter solenoid, needs to be connected or you won't have spark on startup
#14 pink/black from fuel sender to ECU pin #19
#15 orange/yellow ground to body
#16 black/white ground to body, right fender


Just check #1 and #14, should come on for 2 seconds for the fuel pump, #5 from CCRM, my notes say its one of them

 

[turner]

I was debating on putting my fuel pump on a switch ,but I think #13 red/light blue wire may be my issue cause I don't have spark,I don't have that wire hooked up at all.

But your notes right there is what I've been searching for lol,I couldn't find a wiring diagram that showed that plug

 

[turner]

Well I got power on the pink/black wire for a 2 secs. Like I should.I hooked red/light blue to starting solenoid...still no spark.
I've went over wiring over n over seems to all be hooked up as it should unless the round 8 pin red connector (in pic ) that originally was connected to pigtail on driver side fire wall needs some attention..I haven't messed with that plug or its wires yet,but that is the only other plug that could feed the harness

 

[Off Road SHO]

Red/ light blue is the trigger for injector number 4 and indeed originates from pin 13 of PCM.

The power is supplied to the pink/black wire for two seconds from the CCRM and is monitored by the PCM via pin 5.

Tom

 

[Off Road SHO]

When the key is turned to "start", 12 volts is sent to 4 locations on the white/pink wire. One the clutch pedal switch. From there it splits to pin 6 of the ICM and also the starter solenoid. The other two locations are irrelevant.

Tom

 

[shomethe$$$]

Well I got power on the pink/black wire for a 2 secs. Like I should.I hooked red/light blue to starting solenoid...still no spark.
I've went over wiring over n over seems to all be hooked up as it should unless the round 8 pin red connector (in pic ) that originally was connected to pigtail on driver side fire wall needs some attention..I haven't messed with that plug or its wires yet,but that is the only other plug that could feed the harness

That looks like the cruise control module connector, not needed and not your issue. How are you checking spark? Sticking a screwdriver and ground it to the engine w/o actually touching the engine, or hold it in your hand and wait until it zaps you?

 

[turner]

With a spare spark plug in a coil wire against the block,tried holding it too...but I think I found my problem,I traced the SPOUT wire,(yellow/light green) and it seems to lead to a connector that I cut off for some reason,SMH .The wires that are that are stubbed out are
Yellow/light green
White
Greg/red
Tan
Pink
Orange

 

[Off Road SHO]

Each spout test connector only has two wires.

 

[turner]

The spout wire seems to run through some sensor /connector or something,I found it on the page 20 of the diagrams,all it says it "top right of safety wall".the place on the harness would put it in that same location..I just don't remember what I cut off lol

 

[Off Road SHO]

The SPOUT wires don't run through a sensor. They are just two wires that come together in a shorting plug. You pull the cap off and the two wires are un-shorted, put the cap back on and they are shorted together again. SPOUT stands for SPark OUtput Timing.

Tom

 

[turner]

I gotcha,I'm just going off of that yellow/lg wire,but I guess its may just be a crash sensor or something

 

[rubydist]

you will find that the power (12V) line is often shared with several sensors, but the return or signal line is unique to each sensor.

 

[turner]

Well after reading a lot of different treads on here,I think my issue is where I flipped my intake 180°. I unbolted my DIS and have it temporarily plugged in and laying on top of my intake so it isn't grounded.

 

[Off Road SHO]

That is important. Two of the four mounting bolts for the ICM module can be used to ground the ICM to battery negative. Don't remember which two offhand.

Tom

 

[Off Road SHO]

That yellow/light green is one of 3 wires that go from the Air Bag Diagnostic Monitor to the Crash Sensor on the radiator support.

By the way; There is a black wire that comes off of the crank position sensor that must be grounded. This black wire connects to a grey wire that in turn grounds all of the shields of the Crank, cam and ICM wires. Also very important. Those shields protect the sensitive sensor circuits from intercepting Electromagnetic interference from the spark plugs firing and the starter motor cranking.

The shields are made of aluminum foil wrapped around the wires with a bare drain wire also that touches the foil along the way, draining the current back to ground, if you have that grey wire hooked to grounding point G105. That grey wire does not go through a connector but bolts down to somewhere on the top front of engine according to the book but I believe it's that ground I mentioned earlier in the V of the engine underneath the intake. The grounding is then connected through the block to the starter's ground cable at the starter/transaxle interface.

Tom