2010 SHO PP TRACK MODs

[luigisho]

ptu should have some cooling tranny or rdu have any cooling?. brake system? Is there a difference in master cylinder, brake pistons, calipers? Suspension? coils & struts? I'm not up on all of it but there's a handful of stuff for sure.

 

[Michigan-SHO]

Ok. My 2010 PP is totaled due to ice on a down hill off camber turn at 15MPH and a tree. Engine and tranny are fine, car starts and there is no fluid leaks. I have the car and USAA has paid out. Sway bars? Other stuff? I'm xferring all my electronics and other stuff now to the new car. HD brakes, coil overs etc are next.

My question is: What PP parts on the 2010 are worth transferring over to my 2011 SHO? Sway bars ?

I don’t want to “like” this, but I’m glad you are safe.

Any chance of repairing the 2010 for a dedicated track car?

 

[ticoscen]

I’m wondering about the sway bars being thicker, final drive ratio, ecu, computer etc.
I may try to keep it. The frame may be slightly bent.


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[SHOCH]

I vote sho powered, stripped track car like an Ariel Atom, no more cooling issues.

 

[Michigan-SHO]

I vote sho powered, stripped track car like an Ariel Atom, no more cooling issues.

Agreed!!

 

[Jordan_R]

I vote sho powered, stripped track car like an Ariel Atom, no more cooling issues.

The next generation of weight reduction is upon us

 

[luigisho]

How about a swap into a Fiero or a cheap Boxster with a IMS bearing engine failure?

 

[Nova]

Or you can make an exo-sho.

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[Toolman]

Oh no, glad you’re safe.

 

[Long2757]

Oh no, poor SHO. I had good experience with USAA when my Audi S4 was stolen and totaled. They paid me out more than it was worth so I made money on the ****** ordeal. I had the option to buy it back for pennies and they even offered to tow it locally to anywhere I wanted it (from the police impound to my garage) but I was getting ready to deploy to Afghanistan at the time and the car was a tripod due to suspension and axle damage so it wasn't really easy to move around on it's own and I didn't have the time to deal with it before leaving. I wish I would have saved it but just didn't have the time or storage available for it on short notice.

I would pull what you can from it and sell off stuff to make money back like the interior and if you can engine/trans/ptu. You already had the trans rebuilt so maybe keep it as a spare?

Would love to see some pics of your SHO on the track if you have them. Hopefully you can get back out there this season with the 2011.

 

[ticoscen]

I got some rear subframe PU bushings off of Whitelineperformance.com for the Mustang that actually fit my 2010 SHO PP rear subframe. Installed them a couple days ago and tightened up that rear end in turns nicely for 45 bucks and a hours work. KDT943 Whiteline Subframe - mount bushing – Whiteline USA (whitelineperformance.com)

 

[ticoscen]

Oh, BTW, I did manage to rebuild my 2010 PP that USAA said was totaled and did it for 4K. It's better now than before. Have both the 2010 PP and 2011 SHO now. UPDATE:

I got some rear subframe PU bushings off of Whitelineperformance.com for the Mustang that actually fit my 2010 SHO PP rear subframe. Installed them a couple days ago and tightened up that rear end in turns nicely for 45 bucks and a hours work. KDT943 Whiteline Subframe - mount bushing – Whiteline USA (whitelineperformance.com)

 

[802SHO]

I got some rear subframe PU bushings off of Whitelineperformance.com for the Mustang that actually fit my 2010 SHO PP rear subframe. Installed them a couple days ago and tightened up that rear end in turns nicely for 45 bucks and a hours work. KDT943 Whiteline Subframe - mount bushing – Whiteline USA (whitelineperformance.com)

Buy quantity of 1 kit? Just insets into voided space? That’s it?

 

[ticoscen]

Buy quantity of 1 kit? Just insets into voided space? That’s it?

Yes. One kit has 8 pieces, top and bottom cups for 4 mounting / bushing points. You'll see how they fit. Have to loosen the subframe to get between the car and subframe for the TOP ones but is not too hard to do. Do front and rear separately and as a pair.
Hardest part is removing the large steel washer on the bottom rear ones. I used a disc cutter wheel and did an angle cut to get it off. Still useable. Used anti seize copper lubrication on the bolts for reassembly process. Bushings come with a silicon lubricant to help things slip on. I ordered two more kits to do my 2011's rear now. And, will see also if the third kit works on the front sub frame too.