2010 SHO P2196 code

[ChuckC]

I have a 2010 SHO with about 85,000 miles, while driving to pick up my groceries the car started blowing white smoke from the exhaust. I had this same issue about 4-5 months ago this time the check engine light came on and I was able to pull code P2196. Too much fuel in the exhaust measure by Bank 1 Sensor 1. My code reader said the output of the O2 senor is 0. It didn't throw a code but it is also saying the output of my MAF sensor is 0.
The car starts fine the idle is a little rough the smoke went away like the last time. I removed the air box to check the MAF sensor the air box is spotless and the air filter looks new. Is their another way to check the MAF sensor? How much work is it to change an O2 sensor on Bank 1?

Thanks in advance

 

[FiveLeeter918]

Was the check engine light flashing when the smoke started? You're definitely getting a rich condition if you are blowing smoke. Are you tuned?

We don't actually have a MAF sensor on our cars, which may be why it showed 0. The sensor in the airbox is inlet temperature, then we have MAP sensors both before the throttle body and on the intake manifold to measure pressure at each point.

Of the two, Bank 1 is definitely the easier to change. Pull the passenger wheel and it's right there with a blue harness loom. If you are on the originals at 85k, it's probably time to a refresh. Are you on stock plugs too?

 

[ChuckC]

No tune, stock engine, yes I'm on the original plugs, O2 sensors etc. No I didn't notice the check engine light flashing So I should look to change the plugs too? How long of an extension do you need to remove the rear plugs?

 

[FiveLeeter918]

rear plugs are pretty easy with a wobble spark plug socket and a 6" extension. Loosen the charge pipe to get better access to the rear driver side one.

 

[krewat]

rear plugs are pretty easy with a wobble spark plug socket and a 6" extension. Loosen the charge pipe to get better access to the rear driver side one.

Very easy with a straight extension and wobble-head socket wrench And yes, on the pipe.

 

[ChuckC]

I must be doing something wrong because I can't get the coils to release in the rear. I loosen the charged pipe and the strut tower bar. I was able to removed the screws on two of the three, not the driver side one. I can move the coils from side to side but I can't get a grip on it like the fronts. Plus I broke one of the red locking tabs I also notice since I've been working from home the past couple of months and I don't drive everyday, a pronounce rattle on start up.

 

[FiveLeeter918]

I must be doing something wrong because I can't get the coils to release in the rear. I loosen the charged pipe and the strut tower bar. I was able to removed the screws on two of the three, not the driver side one. I can move the coils from side to side but I can't get a grip on it like the fronts. Plus I broke one of the red locking tabs I also notice since I've been working from home the past couple of months and I don't drive everyday, a pronounce rattle on start up.

what year is your SHO? the 15+ is notorious for stripping out the helicoil on the composite valve covers. if you just can't get them to release vacuum, try spinning them a few times to break the seal.

 

[ChuckC]

It's a 2010 with the original plugs and coils, I'm letting it sit over night so we can both cool off.

 

[ChuckC]

It's a 2010 with the original plugs and coils, I'm letting it sit over night so we can both cool off.

I was able to get the rear plugs changed this morning, Thanks for all the suggestions. The car seems to ride better and the idle is a lot smoother.

 

[ChuckC]

It's a 2010 with the original plugs and coils, I'm letting it sit over night so we can both cool off.

I was able to get the rear plugs changed this morning, Thanks for all the suggestions. The car seems to ride better and the idle is a lot smoother.