2010 rust belt 125K Trans cooler line leaking?

[shaker281]

The lower tube looks very corroded and wet concentrated at the bend, not fitting.

No sign of leakage where the axle meets the tranny or the tranny case/plugs.

Curious if anyone else has seen this.

 

[shaker281]

Based on the searches I have done, I think it is this assembly:

Tube Assembly - Ford (AA5Z-7R081-A)​

Found the best deal at Tasca Ford. 2010 non-PP SHO.

 

[Ta2dResqr]

Was just working on mine this weekend. It was dry. Fair warning, it is not very fun to get at. Manual suggests going from the top. Remove the intake and battery/tray. I was already underneath the car and went from the wheel well/underneath. The Thermal Bypass block can be removed by itself and then each line. The block to the front lines required a pretty big wrench (1" or 1-1/8").

 

[dennis218]

The lower tube looks very corroded and wet concentrated at the bend, not fitting.

No sign of leakage where the axle meets the tranny or the tranny case/plugs.

Curious if anyone else has seen this.

2015 PP with 110k. Just had to replace mine. I'm in great northeast.

 

[shaker281]

Thanks guys. I have access to a lift and for sure figured that the airbox would need to come out to access at top. I'll see about the battery tray and between myself and neighbor (massive tool collection), we should be good.

Thought it would be an axle seal, so pleasantly surprised. Will I need more than 1 qt Mercon LV?

 

[Ta2dResqr]

Thanks guys. I have access to a lift and for sure figured that the airbox would need to come out to access at top. I'll see about the battery tray and between myself and neighbor (massive tool collection), we should be good.

Thought it would be an axle seal, so pleasantly surprised. Will I need more than 1 qt Mercon LV?

I did not lose very much on mine. I did not take the hard lines from the transmission to the bypass block off. I did add the PP Transmission Cooler though and still only needed 1 quart total.

 

[shaker281]

Is there a special tool to remove the rubber trans line hoses from the thermal bypass block? I took off the plastic retainers and cannot get these to budge. Haven't gotten super aggressive yet. I am replacing the hardline to the transmission with the thermal block as an assembly.

I haven't tried removing the 1" nuts at the thermal block. I suppose that is another option, as mentioned above.

 

[Ta2dResqr]

I used I believe an 8 or 10mm to loosen the nuts holding the bracket. Then was able to get the block and bracket off the studs. Then I used a 1" on the nuts and I think 1 1/8" on the block itself to be able to twist them free.

 

[shaker281]

That is what I ended up doing. Removing both nuts at the thermal bypass. even with the 1/2" Ford transmission line tool, I couldn't get them off that way. After I had them unbolted, I was able to get one free using the tool. But, after way too much screwing around, I gave up on the top one, and just used the old fitting and screwed it back together. No leaks that I have spotted yet from underneath with the engine running. Took way longer than I expected. All because of those transmission "quick releases". LOL

Thanks for the help! All your wrench sizes are spot on.