Just wanted to share how I went about doing this myself. You need an engine hoist, some thick cable, car should already be on jack stands. You’ll need a regular floor jack, a pallet cut in half and a lot of patience.
Aside from giving yourself plenty of room to work with, space to maneuver the hoist legs that 4ft long or so, the entire front end should be off meaning, intake, battery, intercooler, radiator, ac condenser, core support, impact bar…which should already be off.
I dragged the trans out of the garage on the full size pallet, picked the trans up with the hoist and cut the pallet in half and lowered it back down. Then slowly half picked it up/slid it back in the garage where I set myself up near the engine bay with the hoist. The pallet cut in half is nice bc it fits in between the legs of the hoist and you can pick it up rather easily.
What I installed the top trans mount to the transmission and torqued it down to 90nm. This is where I ran the cables through and back up to the hoist.
Then I had to slide the legs of the hoist over as I didn’t have enough room to fully position it where I wanted. The hoist steers from the back so it was easier to jump to almost my ideal position by sliding it. 
From here it’s a lot of maneuvering and slow moving. In and out and trying to inch closer to the right, as well as go in further and intermittently stop, slowly (SLOWLY) lower the hoist and go in, slowly lower and go in further. Then I took my floor jack handle off, placed it in between the hoist legs, then put the handle back on and with a scrap piece of wood, started to support and straighten out the trans from underneath.
This was the fastest part. Lining it up with the top trans mount engine bay holes, and both lower trans mounts was a PITA.
1) I’ll start by saying, get it into position with the hoist and jack to where the top trans mount is 90% lined up, hand thread the lower 13mm bolts in. You may need to keep a hand on the trans from time to time to push it closer. Then hand thread in the two top trans mount 13mm bolts. Start to tighten them but leave them slightly loose.
2) Make sure your front trans mount (bracket) is on the transmission already, I had removed mine when I unbolted the trans, I spent a lot of time trying to position the transmission to bolt it back up again with the lower trans mount attached to it……DO NOT waste your time doing the same. Attach the lower trans mount (transmission side) bracket first (2) (15mm) Then it’s easier to then attach the front lower trans mount itself. All the lower trans mount bolts are (15mm).
3) Keep using the floor jack and hoist right up until the end.
4) Remove the lower rear trans mount from the subframe. Attach the lower rear trans mount (transmission side) and transmission bracket first, hand threading and THEN attempt to attach the trans mount (dog bone) to the subframe. I was able to get the last 15mm bolt through the trans mount with a thin pry bar to keep pressure on the mount in the direction (away) from the subframe to finally send it home (hand threading). I then torqued all top trans mount (13mm) bolts to 90 nm. And all (15mm) lower trans mounts and trans bracket bolts to 90 nm. Then I lowered the floor jack, and removed the cable off the top trans mount.
There she is. My “Experiment” 2014 SHO salvaged trans with 61k, Traction Concepts Limited Slip conversion, drained of all the old fluid, new trans filter, new valve body filter, new cover gasket, new output shaft seals, resealed and all the sequence of bolts installed to spec and torqued to (12 NM Trans reservoir cover, valve body bolts) and (38 ft/lbs trans case). Bc I believe I was experiencing a bad valve body 3-5-R in my 2010….I uninstalled my 2010 valve body out of the 2014 trans and reinstalled the 2014 valve body. So it will need a TCM update. Nothing more satisfying than achieving the goals you set for yourself. I hope this helps anyone trying to do the same and hopefully it will be a smoother install for you than it was for me. Just one way to do it. Good luck!
Aside from giving yourself plenty of room to work with, space to maneuver the hoist legs that 4ft long or so, the entire front end should be off meaning, intake, battery, intercooler, radiator, ac condenser, core support, impact bar…which should already be off.
I dragged the trans out of the garage on the full size pallet, picked the trans up with the hoist and cut the pallet in half and lowered it back down. Then slowly half picked it up/slid it back in the garage where I set myself up near the engine bay with the hoist. The pallet cut in half is nice bc it fits in between the legs of the hoist and you can pick it up rather easily.
What I installed the top trans mount to the transmission and torqued it down to 90nm. This is where I ran the cables through and back up to the hoist.
Then I had to slide the legs of the hoist over as I didn’t have enough room to fully position it where I wanted. The hoist steers from the back so it was easier to jump to almost my ideal position by sliding it. From here it’s a lot of maneuvering and slow moving. In and out and trying to inch closer to the right, as well as go in further and intermittently stop, slowly (SLOWLY) lower the hoist and go in, slowly lower and go in further. Then I took my floor jack handle off, placed it in between the hoist legs, then put the handle back on and with a scrap piece of wood, started to support and straighten out the trans from underneath.
This was the fastest part. Lining it up with the top trans mount engine bay holes, and both lower trans mounts was a PITA.
1) I’ll start by saying, get it into position with the hoist and jack to where the top trans mount is 90% lined up, hand thread the lower 13mm bolts in. You may need to keep a hand on the trans from time to time to push it closer. Then hand thread in the two top trans mount 13mm bolts. Start to tighten them but leave them slightly loose.
2) Make sure your front trans mount (bracket) is on the transmission already, I had removed mine when I unbolted the trans, I spent a lot of time trying to position the transmission to bolt it back up again with the lower trans mount attached to it……DO NOT waste your time doing the same. Attach the lower trans mount (transmission side) bracket first (2) (15mm) Then it’s easier to then attach the front lower trans mount itself. All the lower trans mount bolts are (15mm).
3) Keep using the floor jack and hoist right up until the end.
4) Remove the lower rear trans mount from the subframe. Attach the lower rear trans mount (transmission side) and transmission bracket first, hand threading and THEN attempt to attach the trans mount (dog bone) to the subframe. I was able to get the last 15mm bolt through the trans mount with a thin pry bar to keep pressure on the mount in the direction (away) from the subframe to finally send it home (hand threading). I then torqued all top trans mount (13mm) bolts to 90 nm. And all (15mm) lower trans mounts and trans bracket bolts to 90 nm. Then I lowered the floor jack, and removed the cable off the top trans mount.
There she is. My “Experiment” 2014 SHO salvaged trans with 61k, Traction Concepts Limited Slip conversion, drained of all the old fluid, new trans filter, new valve body filter, new cover gasket, new output shaft seals, resealed and all the sequence of bolts installed to spec and torqued to (12 NM Trans reservoir cover, valve body bolts) and (38 ft/lbs trans case). Bc I believe I was experiencing a bad valve body 3-5-R in my 2010….I uninstalled my 2010 valve body out of the 2014 trans and reinstalled the 2014 valve body. So it will need a TCM update. Nothing more satisfying than achieving the goals you set for yourself. I hope this helps anyone trying to do the same and hopefully it will be a smoother install for you than it was for me. Just one way to do it. Good luck!
Last edited:
impressive job Andrew!
