1995 Sho Codes

[Reinovator]

You live in AZ and not in the rust belt and don't have to deal with everything under the car going to **** in short order. This makes short jobs really long-- hence making an access panel isn't a terrible idea for rusted out undercarriage cars. Also some vehicles actually have these access panels from the factory.

Thanks,
My wife's 89 is originally from Alaska and I'm chasing cancer on that one all the time, Had to replace the doors. to much Whistling at high speeds

 

[sperold]

I would change the pump the conventional way by taking the gas tank down and performing the job on the shop floor. I had a big problem with the locking ring, had to do a lot of tapping and prying to get it loosened-up enough to turn.
Where I live, the tank fails before the fuel pump, I have changed 3 tanks and always put the original pump back in.

If I lived where you live, while the tank was out, I would cut the access hole and do a good job of it by reinforcing around the perimeter and making the door fit nicely. It is much easier to cut the hole and reinforce it when the tank is out, mainly from a spark - fumes point of view.
That way, if you new pump fails (infant mortality), you can swap in your warranty replacement new one in record time.

 

[luigisho]

Thanks,
My wife's 89 is originally from Alaska and I'm chasing cancer on that one all the time, Had to replace the doors. to much Whistling at he speeds

That's a lot of work just to get the doors to setup right. I think if I had an Alaskan car I would have waved the white flag already. Good luck

 

[Reinovator]

That's a lot of work just to get the doors to setup right. I think if I had an Alaskan car I would have waved the white flag already. Good luck

Yes I agree, but being a Re-tired( always) I like a little self abuse. And The most important part it's my wife's BABY. so really I have no choice. or until I can find her another one. Black with gray interior 5 speed and lots of Betty Boop stuff. or Dragons. LOL I need a rear right corner lenz if you happen to know of one. hers came un attached from the tail lamp housing in her last wreck and the tow truck driver stepped on it. that was the last right tail lamp I had damn it. also the doors are fairly easy to replace its mostly plug and play.

 

[luigisho]

Try Dan Barbush -SV&HOdan- on this forum for used parts. He usually has a few cars and his prices are very good.

 

[rubydist]

I believe I still have a pair of Gen1 taillights in my for-sale thread. pm me if interested.

 

[Reinovator]

I believe I still have a pair of Gen1 taillights in my for-sale thread. pm me if interested.

Wow I just got this.
Sorry I have been Busy.
I will.

 

[Reinovator]

Well Ok
Back to the Possible fuel delivery problem. This is what I found.

Notice the hole, to the right of the taller or outlet tube.


Now notice the Spring coming out of the hole.



under that spring is a small metal ball. this I am assuming is a check valve I was surprised to see that the retainer was gone. the spring was being held in place by the fuel line. the new pump was almost identical except that there was a small 'washer' still holding the " check valve" in place, the way it should be. I am going to hope this cures my intermittent stalling, and rough starting. keep your fingers crossed.

Thanks again for everyones help.

 

[Reinovator]

Oh and this was a Carter fuel pump.

 

[Reinovator]

Try this when it won't start: Turn the key from off to on (not start) position, and listen for the fuel pump. It should run for a few seconds and then shut itself off; the fuel system is now primed. Leave the key in on position. Depress the schrader valve. If you do not get the geyser Rubydist describes, the fuel pump is bad.

Ok it still does it, but it recovers faster Check the pics of the old fuel pump I posted there was a problem. I'm now going to check the return valve on the fuel rail. I will refer to the Ford Shop book for the procedure. unless someone knows a better way to check this mess out.
or makes me a reasonable offer on the car.